1. pliers with narrow tip
2. wire cutters with narrow-point blades that can cut wire close to line tie post
3. jig with some space between line tie eye and lead
4. 28g plastic coated wire found in craft stores for flower arrangements or maybe found in hardware stores. Too thick or too thin doesn't as work well on jigs 1/16 oz or heavier. One spool of wire will last a lifetime for hundreds of jigs and coated wire won't corrode.
1. line up wire to line tie post so that the end reaches just beyond the hook point. Note arrow:
2. wrap wire once around post
3. Cut wire as close as possible - one side only - and use pliers to further press the clipped end tight to the post
4. Shape the remaining wire into an L at the point shown:
If the wire width is too long for the lure's width, cut the wire shorter such that it is close to the lure's thickness.
As you can see, the wire can be installed on jigs as light as 1/32 oz or any weight, though you can use a finer gauge wire for 1/32 or less ounce jigs.
Some may think the wire a distraction from the lure, but believe me it isn't and allows more time fishing than having to reposition the soft plastic back up the hook for every cast!
Note that I use no-collar jig heads because of less damage done to lures, but if the jig comes with one, I cut it off as close to the lead head as possible. There is no need for collar barbs with the wire lock added, though the wire will still work with them in place.
I also use the L wire for holding plastic trailers in place on skirted bass jigs.