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Wading Boots help!!!

Allen Fly Fishing
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Wading Boots help!!!
I'm needing a new pair of wading boots any recomendations

Trent
Trent
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Re: [maddawg] Wading Boots help!!! In reply to

CoolWhat is your budget?

I like spending other people's money.Wink






Dryrod
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Re: [maddawg] Wading Boots help!!! In reply to
I am going to recommend Simms. I have the ultra light with the Aqua Stealth sole and sheet metal screw cleets. I like the Stealth sole cause the snow won't stick to them like felt and the cleets are easily removed for drift boats. Another reason for the Simms is I had mine for 2 years and the whole sole started separating from the boot. For $30. I sent them back and got a Brand new pair and the new style.
Orvis has real nice boots also, but the Ultra Lights are for thin feet.
I suggest good ankle support and comfort on what ever boot you get and the sheet metal screws will work on any sole.



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Re: [maddawg] Wading Boots help!!! In reply to
Hey there maddawg - I found the Hodgman Bantam to my liking. They are reasonably priced at around $50+ but more important is their light weight which makes them quite comfortable to wear. There are dozens of companies offering numerous styles to choose from. Hard to make up one's mind. If I was in the business like FGD I would probably be choosing a Simm's product.




Dryrod
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Re: [Dryrod] Wading Boots help!!! In reply to
I've been thinking about the winnbrener's as well or korkers

Trent
Trent
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Re: [maddawg] Wading Boots help!!! In reply to
I thought about Korkers, but I still hear complaints about the soles falling off, specially if you bend your foot a lot. Haven't heard about Winnbrener's.



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Re: [maddawg] Wading Boots help!!! In reply to
Here's another vote for Simms. If you can afford them, they are well worth it.

I have a pair of Hodgman soft rubber(not aqua stealth) soles that are nice, but, they are a replacement pair. The first one's I bought had the rubber bottom separate within two months of use(about 6 fishing trips). I brought them back to the place I purchased them and they replaced them. This pair has worked well for a few years now. These are the boots that I wear on long dry hikes over rugged terrain to get to the water.

Another pair that I have are Orvis felt soled boots that are really light weight and I only use when I fish really slimy and slippery bottomed waters.

I also have two pairs of Simms both with the aqua stealth rubber soles - one pair of the light weights(that I use for float tubing and pontooning) and one pair of the Leather Guide boots with metal studs. About all I can say is that the Simms are just about bullet proof and I've had absolutely great performance from them.

I personally would recommend the Aqua stealth rubber soles for just about every condition(except long dry hikes over rugged terrain where they wear out faster). Aqua Stealth(sometimes called river rubber) is a very soft rubber material that provides excellent traction in all conditions.

Felt soles provide great traction on slippery moss covered rocky surfaces, but they tend to soak up a lot water, snow and mud and get heavy.
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Re: [Fishhound] Wading Boots help!!! In reply to
Hey there Fishhound - was wondering about your statement of using one of your light weight boots for tubing. Don't you like to use flippers? Seems like it would be hard to navigate around in a pair of boots. Just curious.




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Re: [Dryrod] Wading Boots help!!! In reply to
Hey Dryrod,

I wear my fins(extra large) over the boots. That way I can get out and wade around too. The boots also give me more ankle support for the flippers.
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Re: [Fishhound] Wading Boots help!!! In reply to

Okay Fishhound - now that makes sense.

I happen to wear booties over my wader's stocking feet.






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Re: [Dryrod] Wading Boots help!!! In reply to
You, Zonker, Tube Dude and Tube babe (I am sure that there are more out there) Use those scubba fins, and I get that and the booties. Out here in the Rocky's we fish a lot of rivers, streams along with stillwater, so not speaking for everyone, but the ones I know all use regular fishing boots and the flippers that go over them like force finns.



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Re: [flygoddess] Wading Boots help!!! In reply to
Different places different needs. Most of the reservoirs
and lakes in this area have muddy bottoms. Consequently no wading boots are needed. I am not quite sure if tubeN2 finds similar conditions in his area. What say you tubeN2?I would definately have to alter my thinking if I was tubing in the Rockies or any place north for that matter.




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Re: [Fishhound] Wading Boots help!!! In reply to
I just pick up a pair of Force Fins. Spendy but I love em well worth that cost

trent
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Re: [maddawg] Wading Boots help!!! In reply to
CoolThat is also the brand that I own. Make sure that you get a pair safety lines. Hate to lose a fin that cost over $100 a pair.




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Re: [Dryrod] Wading Boots help!!! In reply to
I do have the safty strap, but the FF we have are the ones with the neoprene upper and heel and those guies believe it or not are pretty bouyant. I use the straps cause if it is windy, I don't want to be chasing it downShocked



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Re: [maddawg] Wading Boots help!!! In reply to
korkers - there are some that say the inter changeble soles fall off. I have not heard any of these people say that they had contacted Korkers about the problem. I have not heard anyone say that Korkers does not support their products.
I have not had that problem. I have had mine about a year and would class myself as a light to moderate user. I heard, after I had bought mine, that the early ones had some problems with the soles coming off but the problem has been fixed. The interchangeable soles can be quite nice.

Last winter I bought the the hard rubber soles with the large carbide cleats. I just love them. They are outstanding. I feel like a mountain goat in the water and climbing car size boulders and rocks on the river bank. Snow does not stick to them. They have great grip on wet grass, narrow gravel canyon trails, moss covered rocks and 'rock snot' covered rocks. The grip in the river is so good that some times you keep expecting you foot to slip down the side of a rock because you have years of experience with felt soles do it. But you find you have to actually lift your foot to get it to move. At times I have wished the boots had more ankle support because the aggressive cleats do grip the cobble in the river so well that you ankles do more rotating than they would with felt soles. If you are not as young and spry wading as you used to be I think you will be pleasantly please with the added security the carbide studded soles give you.

A number of environmental & state agencies are starting to recommend not getting felt soles. Small invasive critters like whirling disease, Rock Snot and New Zealand Mudsnails can get into the felt and be hard to properly cleanse. Also, the felt adsorbs cleaning solutions well and is then hard to thoroughly rinse out. Aquastealth and hard rubber studded soles do not have that problem.

Many many people think that Simms makes built proof boots.

dB
disinfect your wading equipment. wash boat. disinfect livewells / sumps, wash ur dog
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Re: [Scruffy_Fly] Wading Boots help!!! In reply to
Thanks Scuffy_Fly for your detailed report. Best thing to sanitize your felt pads with is either 409, Fantastic or bleach & vinegar 9 to 1 ratio.




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Re: [Dryrod] Wading Boots help!!! In reply to
I have made 4 attempts at replying to Flyrods post. I am going to try doing it again.

DryRod,
Thank you for your reply.
New Zealand Mud Snails, Whirling Disease and Didymo are three of the primary threats to our fresh water fisheries here in Colorado and California. Well maybe not Didymo for California, yet. Whirling Disease spores by their nature of being spores are very resistant to many chemicals. New Zealand Mudsnails have a “trap door” they can close that makes them very resistant to many chemicals. Our wading equipment can be damaged by many chemicals.
Let me clarify things I have found from talking with the California Department of Fish and Game and the Colorado Department of Wildlife and reading published reports.
Fantastic has not been proven to be effective against any of these threats.

The Clorox’s MSDS website lists over 20 Formula 409 products. Only two of those products have been tested to be effective to kill New Zealand Mudsnails. These two products have a degreaser and a disinfectant or antibacterial (Quatenary Ammonium Compound –QAC ). Both required to be effective.
The Whirling Disease Initiative’s website states that Quatenary Ammonium Compounds will kill both life stages of Whirling Disease. Few products available to the general public contain QACs.
Bleach has been proven by the California Department Fish and Game to be ineffective at killing New Zealand Mudsnails. They also have shown that bleach can be detrimental to some wading equipment.

More to follow

dB
disinfect your wading equipment. wash boat. disinfect livewells / sumps, wash ur dog
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Re: [Dryrod] Wading Boots help!!! In reply to
The “Protect Your Waters” website lists pure vinegar and a table salt solution as general purpose cleaning solutions. However, according to the California DFG and the Colorado DOW vinegar has never been tested for effectiveness against NZMS or Whirling Disease. By gut feel they believe it probably would not be satisfactory. They are not aware of any testing of vinegar anywhere.
The Ca DFG did test salt and water solutions to very high concentrations and found it to be 100% ineffective for killing New Zealand Mudsnails. We did not discuss Whirling Disease.

This web page defines chemicals and none chemical methods that have been proven effective for Killing New Zealand Mudsnails by either the Colorado Department of Wildlife or the California Department of Fish and Game.
www.westdenvertu.org/snails.htm
Pay attention to the QACs as they have been proven effective for killing Whirling Disease also.
Even more to follow

dB
disinfect your wading equipment. wash boat. disinfect livewells / sumps, wash ur dog
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Re: [Dryrod] Wading Boots help!!! In reply to
The above page has links to source information about New Zealand Mudsnails. (see previous post by me)
For information about Didymo and Whirling disease see this page
http://www.westdenvertu.org/Conservation.htm#invasion
Dry Rod, Note that NZMS have now been found in Southern California.

dB
disinfect your wading equipment. wash boat. disinfect livewells / sumps, wash ur dog
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B&V In reply to

Some info on using a mixture of bleach & vinegar as a killing agent. One should never mix these two ingredents together in doors.


Adding white vinegar to diluted household bleach greatly increases the disinfecting power of the solution, making it strong enough to kill even bacterial spores. Researchers from MicroChem Lab, Inc. in Euless, Texas, report their findings today at the 2006 ASM Biodefense Research Meeting.

Sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl) in the form of laundry bleach is available in most households. The concentrate is about 5.25 to 6 percent NaOCl, and the pH value is about 12. Sodium hypochlorite is stable for many months at this high alkaline pH value.

"Laundry bleach is commonly diluted about 10 to 25-fold with tap water to about 2000 to 5000 parts per million of free available chlorine for use as an environmental surface disinfectant, without regard to the pH value of the diluted bleach. However, the pH value is very important for the antimicrobial effectiveness of bleach," says Norman Miner, a researcher on the study.

At alkaline pH values of about 8.5 or higher, more than 90 percent of the bleach is in the form of the chlorite ion (OCl-), which is relatively ineffective antimicrobially. At acidic pH values of about 6.8 or lower, more than 80 percent of the bleach is in the form of hypochlorite (HOCl). HOCl is about 80 to 200 times more antimicrobial than OCl-.

"Bleach is a much more effective antimicrobial chemical at an acidic pH value than at the alkaline Ph value at which bleach is manufactured and stored. A small amount of household vinegar is sufficient to lower the pH of bleach to an acidic range," says Miner.

Miner and his colleagues compared the ability of alkaline (pH 11) and acidified (pH 6) bleach dilutions to disinfect surfaces contaminated with dried bacterial spores, considered the most resistant to disinfectants of all microbes. The alkaline dilution was practically ineffective, killing all of the spores on only 2.5 percent of the surfaces after 20 minutes. During the same time period the acidified solution killed all of the spores on all of the surfaces.

"Diluted bleach at an alkaline pH is a relatively poor disinfectant, but acidified diluted bleach will virtually kill anything in 10 to 20 minutes," says Miner. "In the event of an emergency involving Bacillus anthracis spores contaminating such environmental surfaces as counter tops, desk and table tops, and floors, for example, virtually every household has a sporicidal sterilant available in the form of diluted, acidified bleach."

Miner recommends first diluting one cup of household bleach in one gallon of water and then adding one cup of white vinegar.





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Re: [Dryrod] B&V In reply to
Good info.

Was that testing on New Zealand Mudsnails and both Whirling Desease life stages?

Do you have a link to the report? I would like to forward it to my contacts at the Colorado DOW and the California DFG

Straight household bleach is very distructive to waders. 5% and 17% solutions of household bleach were ineffective at killing snails. see this test report:
http://www.esg.montana.edu/...zms/NZMSReport03.pdf

dB
disinfect your wading equipment. wash boat. disinfect livewells / sumps, wash ur dog
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Re: [Scruffy_Fly] B&V In reply to
Hey there Scuffy_Fly- in response to your question I started a new subject on this board entitled "Wading Equipment Compatibility with Cleaning Solutions" Actually I should have moved all these posts and info to the enviromental & conservation board. Unfortunately many readers don't wonder there so here it stays.




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