Fishing

I live near a lake that has no structure in it right now. The bottom is almost completely sand with a few rocks or gravely areas. The eyes i have caught (4) this year have been in 7' or 8' of water in an area that the depth does not change at all and they were suspended about 4' from the surface.
My question is, how do you fish for these fish that have no structure, no where to hide and 3 miles of flat sandy bottom to live on. The only fish i have caught were on rattlin rapalas under planer boards. I have tried bouncing for about 15 hours with no hits. I have tried plastics and many other things. Any advice from you walleye experts???




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WHEN THEY ARE SCATERLIKE THAT TROLLING IS THE BEST METHOD. I WOULD PUT OUT 4 RODS WITH 2 ON PLAINERS. INSIDE RODS ID RUN DEEPER DIVERS WITH ALOT OF ACTION AND ON THE PLAINER RODS ID RUN WHATS BEEN WORKING FOR YA. MARK THE FISH YOU HIT AND JUST KEEP RUNNING THREW THEM. IS THE ISLAND OUT OF THE WATER NOW? THE NORTH END HAS SOME PRITTY GOOD STUCTURE THAT HOLDS EYES MOST SUMMERS. GOD I HATE LOW WATER. THEM DARN WIPERS WILL EAT ALL THE SHAD AND THE LAKE WILL CRASH. LOL OYA IT WILL BE THE EYES FAULT. WERE IN UTAH.LOL
fishing for a deal on a new car or truck I can hook you up. fishing is life everything else is just details.

The island has 1' of water or less on top. All the gravel bars at the north end are high and dry. Shad raps for the deep runners? Remember it is only 7-9' deep. What colors? I have been using shad and clown.




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O I JUST THOUGHT OF ANOTHER GOOD PRES FOR SUMMER EYES ON NO STRUCTURE. ITS CALLED SNAP JIGGING. USE 4 OR 5 INCH TWISTER TAILS. WITH ABOUT A 3/8 JIG. TROLL ALONG ABOUT 1.5 TO 2.0 THE JIG HEAD HAS TO BE HEAVY SO THAT IT WILL STILL DROP WHILE MOVING. CAST IT OUT ABOUT 30 YRD OR SO. LET IT HIT BOTTOM. KICK MOTOR IN GEAR AND SNAP THE JIG AS YOU MOVE ALONG WHEN IT TOUCHES SNAP AGAIN. JUST KEEP DOING IT. WONT FEAL MOST BITES UNTIL THE SNAP AND THAT TURNS INTO THE HOOKSET. SOME GUYS THAT USED TO FISH ALOT OF TUREYS WON ALOT WITH IT. IF YA WANT TO LERN ALOT MOORE ABOUT THE EYES I HAVE SOME GREAT HOW TO VIDEOS BY ALL LINDER THAT SHARE EVERYTHING FROM TROLLING EYES TO JIGGING IN EVERY SITUATION. RIVERS RES LAKES SPRING SUMMER FALL. HAVE YOU USE HOTNTOT YET? IN SUMMER THE EYES LOVE ALOT OF WIGLE AND WOBLE. ALSO TRY TROLLING FASTER THAN NORMAL. LIKE 3 TO 3.5 THE ACTION INCREASES. KEN
fishing for a deal on a new car or truck I can hook you up. fishing is life everything else is just details.

Thanks Ken. I'll have to try some of this stuff.




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 my go to first is always perch even if none are pressant. then a black and gold then fire tiger. but ive seen alot of guys do very well ther with blue and silver. the deep divers should be small right now close to the size of the availible fry. man i feel sorry for the eyes in ther this yr. no eye should suffer this way.
fishing for a deal on a new car or truck I can hook you up. fishing is life everything else is just details.

Flycasting had a nice one hit him at the surface right next to the boat last night! We were throwing rattlin raps. I caught another 22"er on a craw jointed shad rap too.




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Out my way here on Winnebago its a search and destroy mission like crossin'eyes explained .. running the open flats at all depths hunting for 'em then circling back though. One thing thats not known by many folks that fish it regularly is that the top couple feet of the water column can be real productive at times which isn't your 'typical' place to be finding Eyes in sun-up conditions.

I do some snap jigging as CE stated but instead of jigs and plastic I use spoons like the Hopkins, Krocidiles, Kastmasters, Swedish Pimples and molded lead spoons that we call 'one eyes' here locally (Do-it Molds Casting Spoon Lure Item#3177 and their Shad Bait Lure Item# 3391 - use the double loop wire forms ). I wouldn't personally snap jig an open expanse of water until I knew/located where the fish were at or at least their general vacinity though.

The main thing here I'm getting from your description is I think I might start by concentrating on the transition areas in bottom materal and content, slight depressions and humps where it could only be as little as 1' or less difference if I'm understanding the bottom flatness correctly from your description. This requires you to keep a close eye on the bottom line mark on your sonar. Any temperature breaks, baitfish schools,.. I'd be looking for water clarity differences also such as algae lines or suspended sediment changes like muddy/murky/stained water to clearer...

I wish I could be more help but I don't know the body of water you're on LH2 or any specific pattern(s) the fish might be on in your area. Sounds like you need a few fishing clubs and sponsors donations to add some substinance to the water's structure though... rock piles, wood cribs.. even pallet stacks or construction rubble to help the fishery along.

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Thanks for your input.
It really sucks about the water conditions out there. They (in my opinion) will close the entire lake to boat launching within 1 month due to low water. There has been talk about a bunch of us dragging out x-mas trees to try and provide some structure. There is one "island" out there about 100 yds x 300 yds, but is usually under water. That is about the extent of structure except slight humps, and depressions. When the water is up there is tons of rocks, brush and everything else. The lake is about 12-13' down right now due to a breach in the dike around it. They expect to replace 4 miles of it next summer so it is going to be low for who knows how long. I did get another 22" eye last night on a craw jointed shad rap.




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Its a tough situation to deal with I bet!.. It would be frustrating for me as well to see that happen to "MY" lake.

Well for conversation sake.. we have something called "Adopt-a-crib" or "Adopt a reef" in both Lakes Winnebago and the Chippewa Flowage. I can vouch for the efforts we've made on improving the the fisheries here by doing so. It's helped tremendously. The Christmas trees are an excellent idea if they're weighed down, grouped and spaced. I did that for a few years on a small lake I lived on here and it helped a bit in the area.. supposedly the christmas trees won't last the longest but they'll help for a while!

Check this out - http://www.rodngun.org/fishcribs.htm


Oh heck - cool beans on the 22"er!! .. Hey - Theres a little Irony here as I was wondering if the lake had Crawfish in it?.. you mention the crawfish colored rap.

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Here's a couple more methods for you ! Try using a spinner , with a crawler , leech , or minnow , and long line it ( putting out more line than you ussualy do , 150 - 200 ft , and troll slow with that ! ) You can also put a split shot weight on to get it down further ! This method will also work with planner boards too ! Another way is to take a slip bobber , and put a jig head on , and slowly pull that around ! It will take a little bit to get the desired line distance from the bobber to the jig , and let it get back behind the boat aways . Hopefully you have a electric motor , cause the gas engine has a way of spooking fish in shallow water !!

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YOUR MINNESOTA AND ICE FISHING MODERATOR, FLAGMANONICE......


God grant me the Serenity to accept the size of the fish I catch,
the Courage not to fib about it,
and the Wisdom to know that no one would believe me anyway

I'll have to try that one too.




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Hey Brody, flagman is on it, try a forward weighted spinner single hook with a crawler streched out nice and straight. the forward weighted spinner is sometimes called a erie derie. (after lake erie)the weight is colored like bait fish colors. so you might want to try a gizzard shad colored pattern at willard. I use to use a firetiger color at yuba when it was booming 8 years ago. later chuck

Got a pic?




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Erie Dearie

I haven't used 'em in years for Eyes.... good thought!

I've actually modified a few with dual skirts and tandem trebles to cast for pike.

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Thanks for the pics. I'll have to rig some up.




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say LH2.. I was just thinkin' here .. what speeds do you find yourself trolling at most times?

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With cranks it is between 1.8 to 3.0. With blades it is from .5 to 1.2.




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ok so you try sub 1.0.. What lake are we talking about here?

What I've contemplated so far is that due to the draw down the water area (volume) of the lake has decreased as you say by a depth of 12'-15' ... and you're sayin whats left is a big 7'-8' flat.. meaning this lake is normally 19'-23' deep.

Without knowing the lake's structural make up (acres per foot of water at capacity) I hate to tell ya but you're fishing in a cow tank full of bait.. those Eye's now have less then 1/3 of the water to worry about covering in order to fill their bellies.. they probably gorge themselves when ever they please since the pickin's so easy. I'm no Biologist but if you stack up the fish and bait like that you're in a tough situtation man.

hmmm... ever slow drag or drift Lindy rigs? heck... or even anchor fish 'em? Less chase = easy meal

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That's exactly what the problem is. Now that the shad have spawned, I fear walleye's are gonna be even tougher to catch there. Just too much forage in a little space.

Willard Bay is the reservoir he has been talkin about.




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I caught 5 more eyes this week. Atleast 1 each time out. Things are starting to look up for me. Jointed shad raps in crawfish are quickly becoming one of my favorite walleye lures.




LDS BFT at its finest!
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Nice! When we goin???




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Awesome LH2!


Was there a size consistancy with the fish?

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18-20"




LDS BFT at its finest!
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Tuesday.




LDS BFT at its finest!
What a joke!