Don't get too excited about the BAMBOO yet. Remember, back in DRY ROD's days

Bamboo was all they had. There was allot of CRAP! Like the Montegue, The H & I, etc. (they are the Chinese made DAN ELECTRO's

) They were cheap also and still are. Long, Heavy, and made for wet flies with shorter for dries. Very tiresome to cast. For the price that could be what you got. If you choose to fish it, don't think all BAMBOO are like it. The more expensive ones are lighter and cast beautifully.
One other thig, when putting the pieces together, be sure to line the guides up before hand. DO NOT TWIST THE SECTIONS! It should also have a nice POP when separated.
Most the higher price and newer rods also have a coating on them. The older ones need to be TOTALLY dried before storing (which is irrelevant in that I still make sure all my rods are dry).
Some also have smaller guides made for SILK lines, whiuch could make it tough to cast a DT.
Leaders are a must Plus they MUST be taperd (except on sinking lines). You can get kits and make your own, or in my case I use FURLED LEADERS and just add tippet.
Tippet is the piece that connects the fly. Even if you buy a premade Tapered Leader, it is always good to attach at least a foot of equal or smaller tippet to the end. This makles the leader last longer as, when you get to the connection knopt, it is time to add another piece.
I also use regular fishing line for tippet.
In most cases you start with the #9. Then subtract the X on fly leaders/tippet and that gives you a rough idea of the lb
EX: 9 - 5X = 4 lb. But all manufacturers have a slight difference and FLUOROCARBON is rated stronger at smaller diameter.
Drie flies, sit on top. Wet flies CAN be fished as a dry, but are designed to be fished in the film to the bottom.