Fishing

If you make your own jigs and lures, you should make a list of the items you use and then shop around to find the best quality and prices. This thread will be made a sticky post and will be kept locked so that only the moderators can add new items from time to time. Any questions or comments about specific suppliers or supplies should be made as a separate post below.

I will start off the thread by providing links to some of the main suppliers and then sublinks to specific products from their online stores. Using the REPLY function, I will then cover some of the most often needed items and the better places to find them.

CABELAS: One of the most complete all around selections of tools and materials for jig and lure making. Not as complete in some areas as other suppliers. Competitive pricing on most items but higher on some and lower on others.

• Hooks
• Paints & Prism Tape
• Blades & Spoons
• Jig Heads & Skirts
• Bodies, Beads & Eyes
• Hardware & Floats
• Tools & Molds
• Lure Building Kits
• Fly Tying Materials

BASS PRO SHOPS: Carries a few lure making items but not nearly as complete or as competitive as some of the other sources.

Hooks
Hook Accessories
Snaps & Swivels
Terminal Accessories
Blades
Skirts
Beads


JANNS’ NETCRAFT: One of the most complete online suppliers.
Spinner Blades
Beads
Buzz Blades
Clevises
Crankbait Bodies
Crankbait Plug Parts
Floating Jig Heads, Floats
Ice Blades
Lead Heads
Lure Bodies
Lure Making Books
Packaging Materials
Lure Paint, Tools
Plastic & Latex Tubing
Reflector Tape, Lure Eyes
Skirts, Skirt Material, Tools
Split Rings, Pliers
Spoons
Wire, Shafts
Do-It Molds
Fish Hooks
Fly Tying
Worm Molds


BARLOWS: Not as complete as Cabelas or Janns but they have some items not carried elsewhere. They also have better pricing on many items. (Note: Once you log out of this site, you need to remove your "cookies" before you can log back in.)

Lead Molds and Supplies
Fishing Hooks
Spinner Blades and Buzz Blades
Fishing Lure Skirts and Skirt Materials
Fishing Lure Components and Terminal Tackle
Tools for Fishing and Making Fishing Lures
Fishing Lure Eyes, Paint and Tape
Fishing Lure Bodies
Jig Tying Materials
Materials for Making Plastic Worms
Fly Tying Materials and Tools

Make Your Own Fishing Lures


LURECRAFT: One of the newer suppliers on the Internet. They are growing and adding to their product lines. Not nearly as complete as some of the older suppliers yet, but they have some specialties in which they excel, and some competitive pricing on some items.

Do-It Molds
Hooks
Glitter
Materials & Tools
Lure & Jig Paint
Lure Hardware

STAMINA:

Meltiing Pots & Equipment
Molds
Tools & Accessories
Hooks
Paints
Spinner Blades
Brass Lure Bodies
Terminal Tackle
Beads

RUSTIC ESCENTUALS: A candle making supply outlet that has many specialty glitters...ideal for unique effects on jigs and lures.

GLITTERS


GLOW INC.: Providers of glow paints and powders.

Glow Powder
Glow Paints

The process of making jigs begins with melting lead. There are many ways to melt lead, but for jig making, it is best to have a high temperature melting pot to get the lead quickly into a liquid form and to keep it hot enough to allow pouring into the special molds we use.

The hotter the lead, the better it will fill in the small openings in jig heads with fine detail...like the barbs for holding plastics on the heads. If the lead is too cool to begin with...or cools too quickly in the mold...the result will be poor castings and lack of detail. You will have a lot of jig heads with no barbs or poor shapes.

For those on a budget, or who do not make many jigs, it is possible to get by with the simple open top melters and dipping the melted lead out with a ladle...or pouring it out the pour spout on the side. This is more cumbersome than using a lever-operated "production pot" and is potentially more dangerous...from spilled molten lead.


LEE'S PRODUCTION POT (Worth the extra $$$)


LESS EXPENSIVE "HOT POT" WITH POUR SPOUT

JANNS MELTING POTS

CABELAS LEE PRODUCTION POT

BARLOWS MELTING POTS & ACCESSORIES

There are probably over a hundred different jig molds available, from the two or three main manufacturers. Some of them have several "cavities", each with a different size mold of the same jig head or lure. These are often the best choices for beginners at jig making.

As you become more experienced at making and using jigs, you will refine your approach and will notice that you use mostly only a few jigs...and mostly of only one or two sizes. When you get to that point, you can seriously consider buying molds that have several cavities of the same size...for "production" jig making. Some of these molds may have eight cavities of all the same size and style. Others may have 3 or 4 each of two different sizes or styles. You will have to decide first whether you need something like that...and secondly, whether it fits in your budget.

The type of jig fishing you do will also determine what style of jig heads you will use...and what molds you should buy. Here are some of the ones worthy of consideration by beginners.


Minnow Jig Head

The minnow head mold makes heads that have a barb on the back of the shaft...ideal for holding mini tubes. It also holds plastic grubs and shad bodies, so it is a "universal" jig head.


Pony Head Jig with Barb


Rigged with Plastic

The "Roadrunner" jigs were invented and copyrighted by the Blakemore Company. However, there are plenty of molds available to make these effective little spinner jigs. I will post a special post on another thread on making and using these things. They are well worth considering in your beginning arsenal of jig molds. Note: they do require the use of "crane swivels" in the pouring process...and the addition of a small split ring and spinner blade after finishing.


Round Head With Barb


Round Head No Barb

Round head jigs are the work horses of most jig collections. They pour easily, with minimum muss and fuss, and they fish well under most conditions. They are available in both barb and no-barb models. Barbed heads are better for fishing plastics. No barb heads are generally poured to be used for tieing "dressed jigs"...using hair, feathers and/or synthetics. You can fish plastics on no-barb heads, but they keep slipping down. You can also dress barbed jigs...if your budget only allows buying one kind.


Shad Dart

This head was developed for use by shad fishermen along east coast rivers. The flat face makes it "dart" when pulled against current, trolled or retrieved quickly in still water. Since it hangs in a horizontal attitude, when fished vertically, it is a good head for use in jigging and ice fishing. It has no barb but you can still fish small grubs on it. It is great for dressing with your choice of feathers or fibers.


Tapered Tube Skirt Jig

If you plan to fish tube skirts a lot, you should have at least one mold for making the thin tapered heads that insert easily into your choice of tubes. Although you can fish these heads with other plastics or make them into dressed jigs, they are a specialized jig and are usually not considered a "must have" until later in your jig making career.


Shad Head

Shad heads are designed to present a larger "profile" and to "track" straighter through the water when trolled or retrieved. They are ideal for fishing plastics...either shad bodies or grubs. However, they can also be dressed with your choice of fur or feathers to make some great jigs...especially for larger fish. Again, not a must have for newbies, but one of the ones you might want to add later.


Spearhead Jig

Another jig that is not necessary for a beginner, but is a good one to add later. These elongated jig heads are designed for dressing with hair or feathers...to make large trolling or casting jigs. But, they also wear plastics well and they are great for vertical jigging since the balance gives them a horizontal attitude when fished straight down. These are the jig heads from which I make my "plungers"...by flattening them slightly and making them with smaller hooks. Again, the plungers will be discussed in another thread...on specialty jig making.


Ultra Minnow Jig

The "Ultra Minnow" is a fairly new development. It was about the 36th mold to be added to my personal collection. Since making and using a few of these, for vertical jigging in deeper water, I would never do without it again. It makes great jigs down to 1/8 oz. and the horizontal presentation makes it ideal for such fishing.

Here are some other links to both Barlows and other online suppliers of jig molds.

BARLOWS'S A-Q
BARLOW'S R-Z
BARLOW'S HEAVY HOOK MOLDS
BARLOW'S SPINNER & BUZZBAIT MOLDS
BARLOW'S LURE MOLDS

JANNS LEAD MOLDS

CABELAS' LEAD MOLDS

LURECRAFT LEAD MOLDS

STAMINA LEAD MOLDS

There are several manufacturers of good hooks, and many styles that can be incorporated into making jigs and other lures. As with most of the other basic components we buy, we must do our own shopping and should make a comparison list of where our favorite hooks are available...and at what prices.

Selective shopping can save money. Pricing can vary substantially on the same quantities purchased...but some suppliers offer special larger quantity discount packages.

Buying hooks is usually easy from the standpoint of standard sizing...unlike buying split rings, spinner blades and some other lure making components which can vary in size from one supplier to another. Eagle Claw, Mustad, Gamakatsu, Matsuo, VMC, Owner and other brands are uniform in their sizing and you get exactly what you order...regardless of supplier. Here are links to the web pages for HOOKS from several of the main suppliers:

CABELAS HOOKS

JANNS HOOKS

BASS PROSHOP HOOKS

BARLOWS HOOKS

STAMINA HOOKS

It would be impossible to cover all of the different styles and applications of hooks available through all sources. This brief treatment will merely outline some of the hooks most commonly used in basic jig and lure making.

Before listing and picturing individual hooks, let's talk about hooks finishes. The color and type of wire used in your hooks can affect the cost, appearance , strength and longevity of your lures. In other words, these things can make a difference in how much you have invested in each lure, how attractive the lures are to fish, how well they hold up to a long battle with a big fish and how long they will remain untarnished either in your tackle box or inside a released (lost) fish.

BRONZE: Usually the least expensive hooks. May also be the weakest, since they are not forged and strengthened. However, you can sometimes find 2X or 3X strong. These are good hooks to use for catch and release fishing, since they will break down inside a fish more quickly if clipped off.

GOLD: An anodized finish over a steel hook. Adds metallic flash to jigs or other lures. Available in many differernt hooks, from light wire to extra strong. Generally more expensive than plain bronze finishes, but not as costly as red hooks in the same models.

SILVER: Some silver finishes are merely "tinned". Others are stainless steel. They are most often used for salt water applications, but can help create "fishy-looking" lures for imitating shad or other silvery baitfish. Since these hooks are meant to hold up in corrosive salt water, they are slow to break down when left inside fish. Stainless steel hooks are usually strong, but some models with tinned finishes bend easily.

RED: Since many predatory species respond to a touch of red (blood) on lures, using red hooks can sometimes add attractiveness to your creations. Several leading hook manufacturers now offer red hook models in a variety of styles. These are usually more costly than most other finishes in the same styles and sizes.

BLACK: There are some applications where you may want to go "stealth mode", rather than having bright shiny hooks. The black nickle hooks available through some manufacturers are an option. They are among the more costly finishes.

JIG HOOKS: Let's talk about some jig hook basics. Most models are listed as "Aberdeen". Some have big round bends and still others are available in a unique "sickle" bend. Each has it's advantages and disadvantages. You will have to try some of each to determine which works best for the jigs you make, the species you target and the type of fishing you prefer.

To begin with, simply pour some jigs on the old workhorse Eagle Claw and Mustad jig hooks...in both gold and brnnze finishes. If you want stronger hooks, and do not mind paying a premium for quality, you can graduate to Gamakatsu, Owner or other higher quality hooks.

I will make special mention of the Matsuo sickle hooks. I have been using them for a majority of my jigs and lures for a couple of years now. They are about the sharpest hooks "out of the box" that I have found. I lose blood every time I mess with them. They are also a light wire, for easier hook penetration. But, because of the unique bend of the hooks, they will hold surprisingly large fish. You just have to be careful when removing the hook. Do not twist them with pliers or you will ruin the hooks. They have a small barb, so they can usually be more easily removed with a simple backward pull. I use red Matsuo jig hooks for bright colors...hot red, hot orange, chartreuse, fire tiger, etc. I use the gold Matsuos for whites, metallic glitters, blacks, purples, etc.



Eagle Claw #570 Bronze


Eagle Claw #575 Gold Finish


Mustad 32746R Red Finish


Mustad 32746BLN Black Nickle Finish


Eagle Claw #575 Heavy Tin Plated


Eagle Claw #410 60 Degree Bend


Matsuo #9044 Gold Finish Sickle Hook


Matsuo #9064 Red Finish Sickle Hook


TREBLES: We use treble hooks on hardbaits, spoons and spinners. Of course, there is always the option of using ring eye models of single hooks, but unless there are a lot of snags in the waters you fish, a treble hook will usually get more hookups...especially on short striking or finicky fish.

As with most other hooks, trebles are available in a range of styles and finishes. Fine wire bronze hooks are the least costly and least sturdy. If you fish for big tough fish, look for heavier hooks in different finishes. There are an increasing number of anglers who are adding red trebles to their lures...at least for the tail hooks.


Mustad 32647 Bronze


Eagle Claw #575 Nickle 2X Strong


Sohumi #203R Red Finish


Matsuo Red Sickle Treble


VMC #9651 Short Shank Treble


RING-EYE HOOKS: Straight shank "ring-eye" hooks are sometimes preferable to using treble hooks on spinners or other lures. A single hook is less prone to snagging and does a better job of holding fish after the hookset. They also cause less potential damage to fish if you plan to release them. Single hooks also allow you to decorate the hooks with plastics or real bait more easily. In fact, many spinner fans like to make special flies on ring eye hooks to add even more attraction to their spinner creations.

Ring-eye hooks DO have a smaller eye than most trebles. That means that you have to either add them directly to your wire, while building spinners, or else use smaller and finer wire split rings for attaching them to your lures.

Single hooks are also available in bronze, nickle or red finishes. This increases the options for having a custom look to your single hook lures.



Eagle Claw #90SS Stainless


Eagle Claw #84...Red or Bronze


Eagle Claw #254 Saltwater Hook


#455 Spinner Bait Hooks

NOTE: Inclusion of pictures above does not specifically endorse or recommend any particular brand or style. These pictures are intended solely as illustrations of the types of hooks available. Individual lure makers will have to make their own decisions on type, quality and budgeting.

It is possible to catch fish on plain unpainted jig heads, spinners and hardbaits. But, since colors and patterns are a big part of the feeding trigger mechanisms with many predatory fish, it is better to paint them in a variety of ways. (See the attached 1 page PDF writeup on FISH TRIGGERS)

Painting your creations is soul-satisfying. It is always more fun to catch fish on lures you have painstakingly decorated with your own little hands. And, it helps keep you off the streets.

I will be dealing with the actual processes of painting jig heads and other lures in another instructional thread, but I am attaching another PDF file at the bottom on PAINTING JIG HEADS. It will supply a lot of info that will help you to decide which paints you want to buy and use.

Now let’s talk about paints. Over the years I have experimented with almost every type of paint, adhesive and coloring agent on the market. I have a large shelf unit full of paints, of almost every conceivable type and color. Some I have used only for an initial experiment. Others are standards in my day-to-day lure-making operations. Here are links to some of the online sources:

CABELAS PAINTS
JANNS PAINTS & TOOLS
LURECRAFT PAINTS
STAMINA PAINTS & ACCESSORIES
BARLOWS PAINTS


TYPES OF PAINTS:

• EPOXIES: Available in most standard jig colors...white, black, red, yellow, etc.. Great for base coats and eyes, but they usually take several hours to cure...unless you heat them in a toaster oven. These are the best liquid paints for resistance to the solvents in some scents, plastic worms or other lures. It is a good policy to use clear epoxy as a top coating for non-resistant paints.

Two part epoxy clear coat

• LACQUERS:. Fast drying and readily available in a wide range of colors from most hobby and craft outlets. Good for a quick paint job but not durable. Easily chips off when lures/jigs are impacted by rocks or other structure. May even disintegrate within the tackle box if painted surfaces are agitated against other jigs/lures, etc. Also easily damaged by scents and solvents. You should always use a clear epoxy finish to minimize problems with lacquers.
• ENAMELS. Pretty much the same as lacquers. Inexpensive, fast drying and available in a wide range of colors…but subject to chipping and dissolving…unless epoxy coated.
• VINYLS:. These are great products for lure painting, since they bond well with almost all surfaces...including lead and plastic. The clear vinyl paint is especially well suited for mixing with glitter, for painting sparkle heads, and for mixing and applying glow powders. These paints are fast drying and the final finish is tough and resists chipping. Even though vinyls are fairly resistant to plastic solvents, it is still a good idea to give them a final coat of clear epoxy.

Vinyl Paints...1 oz.


Vinyl Paints...4 oz.


Vinyl Paint...Clear...4 oz.


Vinyl Paint Thinner...4 oz.

• FLUORESCENTS. These are available in several colors, in lacquers, enamels, and vinyl paints. You should always use a good white undercoat before applying any fluorescent color. Fluorescent paints usually have a “flat” finish when dried…and are subject to degradation by oil scents and plastic solvents. Finishing them with a coat of clear epoxy paint not only helps protect them, but adds gloss too.

Fluorescent Lacquer...4 oz.

• GLOW PAINTS. These glow in the dark after being “charged” with a flashlight. They are designed for night fishing or for fishing in murky water and/or during low light conditions. As with fluorescent paints, they should be applied over a white base. They may also require frequent stirring, during use, to insure complete mixing of the glow ingredients with the carrier paint base. NOTE: Glow paints are available in several colors. But, the color of the glow will not always be the same as the color indicated on the bottle. Even “pink” glow paints will usually glow green. Also, most glow paints are fairly weak and do not hold a “charge” very long. You can get much better glow results by using quality glow powders.

Vinyl Glow Paints...4 ox.

OTHER BASE PAINTS/COATINGS/COLORS:

• POWDER COATS. To use these, the metal jig head must be heated to a high temperature and then dipped or dusted with the powder. Then, you must reheat the coated jig head for several minutes to “cure” it. This melts the powder to form a hard, resistant single color coating. A good finish, but slower and more error-prone than paints. Usually plugs up the hook eye. Good for base coats or basic colors but not as good for eyes or fancier designs. However, powder paints are now available in glitter and glow products, as well as a transparent coating for extra gloss and protection.

Powder Paint...2 oz.

• PLASTIC DIPS. Sold as protective paints for hand tools, and other applications, these thick rubbery materials are usually only available in a very few colors. Like powder coatings, unless you paint them instead of the intended dipping, they clog the eyes on your jigs. They work, but are not the most highly recommended.

• LURE DIPS & MARKERS:. These solvent-based coloring liquids are designed to be “quick fixes” while upon the water…not as permanent base colors for jig heads. However, when you are stuck with the wrong colors during a hot bite these dips and markers will allow you to make quick and temporary color changes to help get you into the action.

Lure and Blade Dip


Quick Coat Lure Markers

To be developed...with pics, etc.

To be developed...with pics, etc.

To be developed...with pics, etc.

To be developed...with pics, etc.

To be developed...with pics, etc.

To be developed...with pics.

To be developed...with pics.

To be developed...with pics.