Fishing

What is the best way to attach the tippet to the fly line. I have some of the eyelets that go up into the fly line. I have a real hard time getting them to go in and stay in the line. they usually go to the side then poke my finger. is there a better way to do this or any tricks for the make the eyelets easier to put in.

Aaron
With enough time, money, and gear spent on fishing anything is possible.

Tippet to leader?

or

Leader to fly-line?

If it is leader to fly-line, I use the "loops" that come with the leader and line. If yours are not so equipped, then a nail-knot or needle-knot should work fine. I cover my nail knots with a little UV "goo" to make it less likely to snag my leader.

If you are talking tippet to leader, I am a fan of the double or triple surgeons knot.
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BAM, WHIZ, SPLASH, NET, REPEAT

I am with Monster on this one.

Most fly lines come with a loop on the end, but if they don't, those mesh loops work great, or I make a loop in my fly line and then secure it with tying thread..then the Knot Sense (UV Goo)

Learn a Perfection Loop. Put that in the end of your leader if it does not have a loop. Perfection will hang much straighter than a Surgeons's Loop which at this point you want a straight hang
Do the Loop to Loop hand shake.

As far as attaching tippet....100% Surgeons Knot OR a blood knot, but I have to use a tool for that...LOL

Now attaching fly to TIPPET....when then I use a Surgeon's Loop. WHY?, because I can use HEAVIER tippet without effecting the flies movement.
Example: I can use 6X on a #32 fly.


LESS KNOTS down your line, the less HANG UPS in the GUIDES. I am not sure if that is your question.
Are you getting hang-ups trying to cast your line or bring it in with knots getting caught on the tip top or the guides?




Some things are better left alone, Even though, some feel they know better.
http://www.utahflydrifters.com/guides/profiles.htm

The best way to attach your leader is the "nail knot" or the nailless nail knot. Ill try to explain it too you if not i can show you a few pics. first on your but section of the leader double it over about 5-6 in. so you will have a loop in the top, now bring your flyline down to the end of where you doubled it over. Take the end of your tippet and start wraping it back over it self 6-7 times feed the end through the loop in the flyline moisten and pull tight trying to keep the wraps in line works great and the knot will pull to 105% of line strength, easy to tie with a little pratice can be done in a min or 2 and is great in the feild

I tell you what. You want to attach your leader right to you fly line is a clean way to do it, however, you have to worry about your leader. The more you cut off (changing fly) you are going to shorten and change the taper of the leader. Then changing it out, you loose a little more line.

BUT, you got to get one of these tools. I can't tell you how often I use this thing. I specially use it to attach BACKING to FLY LINE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgdQb958d28




Some things are better left alone, Even though, some feel they know better.
http://www.utahflydrifters.com/guides/profiles.htm

Here is a way an old fly shop owner, Doug Hoops taught me to attach a leader to the fly line. Doug had me use a rather large sewing needle. You push the needle into the end of the fly line a little more than 1/4 inch. Heat the needle with a match. When it has cooled, remove the needle. A hole should remain in the end of the fly line. Place a small drop of Krazy Glue on the butt end of a knotless leader. Slide the leader into the hole in the end of the fly line. Place the smallest of drops of glue right where the leader meets the fly line to finish filling the hole and make it smooth. Be careful not to get glue anywhere else on the fly line or leader. Wait for the glue to dry (24 hrs is best).
I remember questioning weather this would hold when I first tried it. I used an old line and tried to pull the leader and line apart. The fly line broke - the connection never did. It sure makes a smooth transition from fly line to leader (much smoother than the nail knot). I have used it now for 15 years and have never lost a fish from a line to leader failure. One note - Doug only used "Krazy Glue". I'm not sure if it is realy better than other brands of super glue, but that is the only brand I have tried - the student always listens to the master.

I forgot one thing (and it is a biggie).

If you do not use the loops and go for a nail-knot, then do yourself a favor and tie on a 12" - 18" (heavy end) piece of an old leader to the end of your fly line and leave it there (semi) permanently. Then use that "extension" to tie your leader on to. This way, you never have to cut off any of your actual fly-line when you change leaders.

What happens is every time that you tie on a new leader, you "waste" a few inches on your expensive fly-line. It doesn't seem like a big deal until you consider that you are cutting off the "weighted" portion (weight forward lines) of your line every time you change your leader and tie a new nail-knot. It only takes a few nail-knots to "ruin" a $50-$100 weight forward (WF) line.
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BAM, WHIZ, SPLASH, NET, REPEAT

That is what I was trying to say Monster.

Trying to put a needle straight down the center of a fly line is not all that easy. There is a little tool called the SHIMAZAKI. that is FANTASTIC! for this and you can do it blind folded.
We take a leader of choice and use this tool. start with the tippet end of the leader and pull it through the needle eye once it is inserted into the fly line. Scuff up the end of the leader (the end with the loop) with sand paper. Put a dab of Krazy Glue or ZAP-A-GAP (WATER PROOF SUPER GLUE - not all super glues are water proof). Put the leader and it will stop about 1" to 4". Clip off loop.
You now have the CLEANEST connection there is. Use that leader up. With putting tippet on the end it could last all season.
PLUS, when it does wear out, cut it off like mentioned at 12" to 18" or shorter and put a PERFECTION loop in and you now have a way clean BUTT section.


NOW, one last thing. Some lines have an inner core. What this means is NO NEEDLE KNOT. You cannot thread a needle in them. That is where the NAIL KNOT would be the next best choice.
OH, as far as lines with a core...SYLK for one, and my RIDGELINE.




Some things are better left alone, Even though, some feel they know better.
http://www.utahflydrifters.com/guides/profiles.htm

I too use a tie-fast gadget to attach the line to leader. For a beginner like me it makes it a lot easier to tie an effective knot. The tie-fast that I have also has a clipper and eye cleaner on it and I love that thing!
------
utfisher
NAFC Lifer

Why not just tie a perfection loop in the end of your fly line? Just did it with an intermediate line. didn't make any sense to nail knot a butt section of mono to a mono fly line. didn't have any problems, no hang ups or hinging. Will try with my floating line next leader change. Can't be any bulkier than whip finishing a loop in the end of your fly line or nail knotting a butt section of mono and then tying a perfection loop in that. is this too obvious or am I missing something? don't see that bulk or weight will be an issue with 6 wt lines and lighter.

I suppose that there are several ways to skin this cat, but I wouldn't want that kind of loop in the end of my fly-line. It is hard enough to drift a dry with no drag as it is. Not to mention the drag in the air while you are casting.

A properly tied nail-knot is as bulky as I would want to get.

In addition, by tying loops in the end of your fly line, you will be using up the weighted end (WF) of your fly-line.
................

BAM, WHIZ, SPLASH, NET, REPEAT

I agree with MB. I resisted the loop ended fly lines for a few years for all kinds of reasons, but my local fly shop finally convinced me to try one when I needed a new 5-weight line earlier this year. I had always used nail knots in the past.

To make a long story short, I was convinced in short order. I have now added 4- and 9-weight lines with the pre-fabricated loops in the end of the line. I love the convenience factor. I had feared the loop would sink or perhaps adversely affect a fine presentation, but happily I was quite wrong.

I have used this method since the mid 90's. I do only use it on a couple of rods though- I have a buddy who uses it for all his rods. I like it more for some of my stillwater fishing where the shot at bigger fish are a higher percentage and getting the leader into the rod eyelets and then having a fish make a run is a good possibility. Lost a very nice fish years ago because of the nail knot catching in the eyelet on one of those runs. I have gone to ZAP a Gap instead of super glue. I like it also on my 3 wt small stream rod- no knots- no drag. I have never had a leader let loose because of it. I maybe change a leader twice a year on those rods. Losing an inch or so a year isn't a big deal.

I also like to use the Whitlock zap-a-gap splice to attach the leader directly to the fly line without any loops. When the leader gets beat up enough not to tie on anymore tippet, I cut it back and tie the perfection loop in its butt end for a loop to loop with a new leader.
Back to the original thought though, does a small enough tied perfection loop in the end of the fly line add any more bulk than the factory loop ended fly lines?

It may not add any more bulk. I don't know for sure as I have never used that method. But I am fairly certain that it wouldn't be as "clean" and "snagless" (made up a new word). I am constantly fighting for a clean, drag-free drift and the manufactures loops help a little in that way. Also, on windy days, I almost never find my fly caught in the loops. I can't really say that for the days that I used to tie knots at the end of my line.

Like I said, there are many ways to do this and everyone has a favorite. This is just my favorite. I am constantly learning new was to do things. I too resisted the loops for a long time. Now, I always use them as they were an improvement over the way that I used to do it (nail knot with goo).
................

BAM, WHIZ, SPLASH, NET, REPEAT

I have always preffered the Albright knot to the nail knot. Much easier(and faster) to tie and have never had problems with it not holding. I will have to try the Needleand zap-a-gap technique though.

Actually you can make a PERFECT LOOP in your line very easily.
I do it to all mine. I was doing the NEEDLE KNOT (Davy Whitlock)for quite awhile and it is very strong, but as I said, some lines have an inner core and that is ALL sinking lines.

This is easier with a bobbin. Use regular fly tying thread. I like bright colors as they act as an indicator also.
Cut the line at an angle and fold it over. Now start wrapping it with the thread. If you have the bobbin, set it tight enough then you can swing it around with out the thread coming loose.
After you have fasten the tag together, whip finish the thread and coat with KNOT SENSE. You can make the loops as small and less resistance as you want.
I have done this for years. I have had the LINE break about a foot up from the loop, but never the loop.





The only down side to this is, I do allot of deep nymphing where I am using 6lb fluoro. Mono or Fluoro this small can eventually cut into the loop. But leaders are much bigger at the loop so this is not a problem.




Some things are better left alone, Even though, some feel they know better.
http://www.utahflydrifters.com/guides/profiles.htm

Nymphing is probably 90% of the equation when utilizing flies for trout because they only rise consistently to a sustained surface hatch for limited periods of time. The mesh loop is really versatile for fishing nymphs because you can attach as much tippet as needed to suit water depth and changes in flies. If you go the smart route when nymphing, you can just attach some standard mono-filament or fluorocarbon fishing line instead of paying extra for a tapered leader and tippet. On the other hand, if you are presenting dries or terrestrials, the nail knot attachment and tapered leader give you a much more beautiful surface layout and presentation which can be crucial in getting a surface strike.

I am sure some have tried this one but here goes.

I had one of the guys at Sportsmans Warehouse put butted ends on two of my fly lines. They were about 18" long. The 5 wt line was big enough for him to secure the butted end to the fly line with a needle knot. The 4 wt line was too small so he used a nail knot on that one.

He told me he then ties a blood knot to secure the leader to the butted end.

I also use the blood knot for all of my leader to tippet connections.

It takes practice, but I love that knot!

Also, the Davy knot for the fly to tippet connection is stong and easy to tie...that's my set-up for whatever it's worth.

Nail knot all the way for leader to fly line application!!!

Loop connections always get stuck in my eyelets and I end up having to pull my line out by hand to get it out of there! Stopped that quick! They are also bulky, which I'm not a fan of. Nail knot is fast, easy and never breaks! IMO.

Triple Surgeons all the way for tippet to leader application! IMO.

-Rich

You are right my man!

UV Knot Sense works good to coat the rough knots on lines!

Molded loops smmmmmmmoooooth fellas. Take them over a KNOT of any kind and I have used both.




Some things are better left alone, Even though, some feel they know better.
http://www.utahflydrifters.com/guides/profiles.htm

A loop knot is a loop knot....there is still a "loop" on the end. I can't imagine that "loop" coming out of my eyelits any easier than the "loops" before. What can be ssssmmmmmmoootttthhhhhhhheeeerrrrrrr than a nail knot? It is almost completely flush with the fly line itself. It will fly out of my eyelits on the first cast, everytime. IMO. LOVE IT! To each their own!

-Rich

Glad you are on board brother!

-Rich