05-05-2009, 04:32 PM
If you break off, either on a fish or a snag, chances are the line broke, not the knot---no matter what knot you used---if the knot was tied properly.
Even a straight clinch knot will hold when the line breaks---mostly because the line was degraded while tying the knot.
However, for the strongest knot you can tie, try a double improved clinch knot. This is the one we used with noodle rods & 2# class lines for steelhead and coastal browns coming out of Lake Michigan.
I once won a Trilene-sponsored contest for tying the strongest knot with that one. Subsequently, Berkley reintroduced it as the "Trilene Knot."
With any knot, the key, in mono and leader material, is to not let the loops of the knot heat up the line itself. That's the main problem with the clinch knot; folks tighten it up too quickly and it generates friction heat as the loops snug to each other.
A slow, steady pull, and lubricating with water (spit works great) pretty much eliminates the problem.
Brook
[signature]
Even a straight clinch knot will hold when the line breaks---mostly because the line was degraded while tying the knot.
However, for the strongest knot you can tie, try a double improved clinch knot. This is the one we used with noodle rods & 2# class lines for steelhead and coastal browns coming out of Lake Michigan.
I once won a Trilene-sponsored contest for tying the strongest knot with that one. Subsequently, Berkley reintroduced it as the "Trilene Knot."
With any knot, the key, in mono and leader material, is to not let the loops of the knot heat up the line itself. That's the main problem with the clinch knot; folks tighten it up too quickly and it generates friction heat as the loops snug to each other.
A slow, steady pull, and lubricating with water (spit works great) pretty much eliminates the problem.
Brook
[signature]