03-04-2007, 02:47 PM
Ok this is up my alley
First you want to measure from the tip of the rod to the center of each giude. Write these numbers down because they are critical in the performance and action of the rod. Next you will take a razor and cut the old guides off the rod.
[#ff0000]This step should be done from the side of the guide and gently cut into the wraps just enough to break the threads. Don't press hard or cut down the "foot" of the guide in a way that the razor might cut into the blank.[/#ff0000]
[#000000][/#000000]
Once the guides are off you will want to remove the remainder of the old wraps they should just peel off. There will be a little residue left on the blank but no worries. You can remove the residue using 220 sandpaper but don't rush just gently sand down the areas needed to be cleaned. Or if the wife isn't looking steal her emery board (nail file) that works really well.
After everything is stripped and sanded you will need to reclear the areas you worked on, or if you are really neat about your sanding you can rewrap over the areas you stripped.
Next step is to decide if you will under wrap the guides. This is when you wrap the blank with a layer of thin diameter "A" sized thread to protect the blank from the metal of the guide feet. Either way you will also have to sand down the guide feet to get a smooth point at the tips. They come stock with a thick edge that will look ugly if you just wrap over it.
Once sanded lay out the guides and use blue masking tape to hold the guides all in place. If you are satisfied with the spacing you are ready to complete the wraps.
Now you will be at the point where you need a jig to hold the rod while you wrap. You can make a simple jig using a 2x4. Cut 2 or 3 sections of 2x4 into 10" lengths, they must be exact. Next cut a V in one end of each of the 10" pieces. Cover the V with some masking tape or anything that will stick that will protect the rod from getting scratched as you turn it. Then take the V notched pieces and attach them to what is left of the 2x4 so you have the flat (not notched) ends attached to the 4" side of the 2x4 and all the notches are lined up. Spacing does not matter so you just put them where you want. Now you will have a jig that looks like a letter [black]E[/black] if you used 3 V groved pieces. This is your wrapping station. You can clamp it to a table and you are ready to wrap. Many people use a "thread tensioner" but if you go single color you can just drive a nail into the 2x4 withthe thread on the nail. Then just use your fingers to tension as you wrap.
When wrapping you will start off the guide and slowly wrap toward the guide. Getting onto the foot is the only area of caution where you really have to pay attention. Once onto the foot of the guide you will need to make a seperate loop of Mono that can be wrapped over to finish the wrap. You just lay the mono loop over your wraps and continue to wrap about 5-8 more wraps. When done you will be able to cut the thread, pass it through the mono, cut the thread pretty short, and pull the mono in a quick jerk this will pass the tag end of thread under the 5-8 wraps giving you a clean looking finish.
Once you complete all the wraps you need t epoxy finis the rod. Tis can be done on your wrapping jig. Connect you rod to a variable speed drill, you can do it by using a lot of tape and tapint the rod but to something that is fastened into the chuck of the drill. Clamp the drill in place and use a large band clamp to depress the trigger enough that you get about 10-15 turns a minute. Then you will be able to apply your epoxy with a finishig brush.
Or ship it to me and I can duplicate what you have or do a custom wrap. I have a complete professional wrapping station in my house.
But you will get alot more pride out of doing your own.
[signature]
First you want to measure from the tip of the rod to the center of each giude. Write these numbers down because they are critical in the performance and action of the rod. Next you will take a razor and cut the old guides off the rod.
[#ff0000]This step should be done from the side of the guide and gently cut into the wraps just enough to break the threads. Don't press hard or cut down the "foot" of the guide in a way that the razor might cut into the blank.[/#ff0000]
[#000000][/#000000]
Once the guides are off you will want to remove the remainder of the old wraps they should just peel off. There will be a little residue left on the blank but no worries. You can remove the residue using 220 sandpaper but don't rush just gently sand down the areas needed to be cleaned. Or if the wife isn't looking steal her emery board (nail file) that works really well.
After everything is stripped and sanded you will need to reclear the areas you worked on, or if you are really neat about your sanding you can rewrap over the areas you stripped.
Next step is to decide if you will under wrap the guides. This is when you wrap the blank with a layer of thin diameter "A" sized thread to protect the blank from the metal of the guide feet. Either way you will also have to sand down the guide feet to get a smooth point at the tips. They come stock with a thick edge that will look ugly if you just wrap over it.
Once sanded lay out the guides and use blue masking tape to hold the guides all in place. If you are satisfied with the spacing you are ready to complete the wraps.
Now you will be at the point where you need a jig to hold the rod while you wrap. You can make a simple jig using a 2x4. Cut 2 or 3 sections of 2x4 into 10" lengths, they must be exact. Next cut a V in one end of each of the 10" pieces. Cover the V with some masking tape or anything that will stick that will protect the rod from getting scratched as you turn it. Then take the V notched pieces and attach them to what is left of the 2x4 so you have the flat (not notched) ends attached to the 4" side of the 2x4 and all the notches are lined up. Spacing does not matter so you just put them where you want. Now you will have a jig that looks like a letter [black]E[/black] if you used 3 V groved pieces. This is your wrapping station. You can clamp it to a table and you are ready to wrap. Many people use a "thread tensioner" but if you go single color you can just drive a nail into the 2x4 withthe thread on the nail. Then just use your fingers to tension as you wrap.
When wrapping you will start off the guide and slowly wrap toward the guide. Getting onto the foot is the only area of caution where you really have to pay attention. Once onto the foot of the guide you will need to make a seperate loop of Mono that can be wrapped over to finish the wrap. You just lay the mono loop over your wraps and continue to wrap about 5-8 more wraps. When done you will be able to cut the thread, pass it through the mono, cut the thread pretty short, and pull the mono in a quick jerk this will pass the tag end of thread under the 5-8 wraps giving you a clean looking finish.
Once you complete all the wraps you need t epoxy finis the rod. Tis can be done on your wrapping jig. Connect you rod to a variable speed drill, you can do it by using a lot of tape and tapint the rod but to something that is fastened into the chuck of the drill. Clamp the drill in place and use a large band clamp to depress the trigger enough that you get about 10-15 turns a minute. Then you will be able to apply your epoxy with a finishig brush.
Or ship it to me and I can duplicate what you have or do a custom wrap. I have a complete professional wrapping station in my house.
But you will get alot more pride out of doing your own.
[signature]