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putting your tag on a new trailer
#1
I just bought my first boat. A 2004 Triton Tr-175. I got the tag in the mail this week and can't find a place

to hang the tag. I rode by the marina yesterday to see how everyone else had their tags and seems like the standard is

left side under the tail light. My trailer has no lip or anything underneath the taillight.

Help?
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#2
All the boats i have ever owned have had a plate hanger under the left tail light. Its odd that the triton trailers dont have them.

I would bet you can pick one up at a trailer shop for less than ten bucks.

Thats where I would start.

I would think any RV place, or place that sales trailers for snow mobiles, 4 wheelers, or just utuility trailers would have them, or at least be able to order them for you.

Congrats on the new boat. Trition makes some nice ones!
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#3
Thanks. I had no idea what they called it. I just found one at bass shops website. I will stop by the local marine dealer today and get one. Looks like they are just a few dollars for a steel one.

This is the first time I have ever owned a boat. I had never even drivin a boat untill this past wednesday. The salesman met me at the lake with the new boat and gave me a crash course on how to operate a boat.

It was a blast!

I'm ready to fish!
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#4
[pirate] Don't use the term "Crash Course".

Driving a boat is much more difficult than it seems. [ul] [li]You gotta keep an eye out for underwater obstructions such as submerged trees, rocks, sandbars, and shoals... any one of which can put a hole in the boat and ruin your day.[/li] [li]You gotta keep another eye peeled for boaters, jerk-bikes, skiiers, buoys, juglines, and thousands of other distractions which can cause damage to your boat or ruin your day.[/li] [li]You gotta keep another eye out for the passengers in your boat, making sure the kids don't take off their lifejackets or throw their empty soda cans in the water.[/li][/ul]

I'd recommend getting a copy of the "Rules of the road" which are found in your state's regulations.

If you're very careful to always put in the plug before launching, always use the correct oil-fuel mix in the engine, never start the engine when it's out of the water, and always trim the engine up before dragging the trailer back up the ramp, you should have a very good time and enjoy your craft for many years.

Please remember, though... one little accident on the water can ruin lives forever. Be careful out there.
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#5
Well said tkishkape. Although I have never operated a boat, I have seen my share of people not paying attention to what they are doing. It definitely seems much more difficult than most people realize.

Not sure what state you're in but here in Minnesota they now sell permanent licenses on the trailers. You put the sticker on the Tongue of the trailer and you're set for life.
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#6
Thanks for the advice. It was very difficult to drive a boat for the first time. Thank goodness it was a on weekday that the salesman took me out. There were a couple of boats on the lake that day. It was really hard to keep an eye on everything. Rpms, tilt, watching for crab trap buoys, watching the signs for manatee or slow no wake zones.

The hardest thing out of the whole trip was getting the boat back on the trailer(i missed 4 times) and pulling up to a dock.

I have so much to learn. I plan on taking the Florida Boat safe course soon.

I also have some really good friends from church who own boats and have been boating for years.

It can get really confusing. Thank goodness I only have to mix my fuel and oil for the first tank(break in period) and after that, just keep the oil tank on the motor filled.
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#7
[cool][cool]Hey there patrickacox being that you have a new trailer and boat the trailer should come with the plate bracket on it you should go back to the dealer for a free one. Sounds like a real nice boat my tracker is now a year old and we love it it's a real nice fishing platform. Post a pic when you can and good luck with your new boat.
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#8
Thanks. I called the dealer yesterday and he told me to come on by and pick one up. While I was at the dealer we got to looking for it on another triton tr-175 that they had in the showroom.

You have to get down on the floor and look up under the fender and there it is. You can't see the bracket by just looking at the trailer.

He gave me a extra one to keep if I needed it in the future.

It is alot more boat that I ever thought I would own. But I got a really good deal with rebates and award packages.

It's the Triton Tr-175 Single Console. But the one I bought is the same color as the one in this picture on Tritons website.

[url "http://www.tritonboats.com/sub.asp?goto=/boats/boatlist.asp?catid=2"]http://www.tritonboats.com/sub.asp?goto=/boats/boatlist.asp?catid=2[/url]
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#9
[Tongue] Now that is one fine boat! Congratulations! You'll have a lot of fun with it... I know I would!

What kind of anchor do you have for it? I'd recommend a danforth type. Properly rigged, it's the best!
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#10
Oooh. I don't have a anchor yet. I am still buying all the little extras that you need for a new boat.

I am a boating newbie...do I need a anchor?
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#11
[unsure] Naw... ya don't need an anchor [ul] [li]Unless you run out of gas[/li] [li]unless you get caught in a windstorm[/li] [li]unless you want to sit still and fish in one place for a while[/li] [li]unless you want to use the boat for a swim platform[/li] [li]unless you and your main squeeze need a little time for yourselves on the water.[/li][/ul]

It's just a hunk of iron that could save your life if used properly.

Don't skimp on an anchor. They're rated acording to the length of the boat. Always have a chain attached to your anchor and the anchor line at least three times longer than the deepest water you intend to anchor in.

I keep three anchors on my boat at all times, ready to throw. Two are Danforth type anchors with one having 100ft of anchor line on it, and the other having 150ft of line on it. The third is a special situations anchor for mud bottoms and no current. It is a mushroom anchor with 100 ft of line attached.

There are a few rules to remember about anchors: [ul] [li]NEVER anchor from the stern of the boat. The waves will tend to come over the transom.[/li] [li]Always anchor from the bow of the boat using one anchor. The bow will rise and fall with the waves, keeping the water in the lake. If the boat is in a river, the current will capsize a boat in seconds if it is anchored from the stern or by multiple anchors. [/li][/ul]

Most anchors are sold with a ring to attach the chain to. If the ring slides to the fluke joint, the anchor can be retrieved if stuck. If the ring is fixed, the anchor chaim must be attached to the fluke end of the anchor and ty-rapped to the ring. If the anchor is stuck, the ty-rap will break allowing the anchor to be withdrawn from the opposite end.

This old sailor is glad to pass on a little of what he's learned if it will save someone some tears or grief. If you have any questions, post them here. There are lots of good people here that can answer them.
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#12
[Wink]Hey Al, I have two types of anchors one with a slide ring and one fixed. Your trick for the fixed connector sounds real good with the tie rap or wire tie. I will be making that set up this year. It's a real pain when you have to go around in circles to get your anchor free. I had to cut one free two years ago on Black lake in fifteen feet of water. That was my river anchor I think it got hung up on a buoy cable. I know where it is and I am going to try to retrieve it this year using my new aqua-vu camera. There is still about fifteen feet of rope on it. Thanks for the tip.
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#13
[unsure] Nix the tie wire... You cannot break it in an emergency.

Use a standard tie-rap 1/4" to 3/8' wide. Ty-raps are strong enough to let you bring up your anchor under normal conditions, but if the anchor is stuck, the Ty-rap will break under pressure from your engine.

I keep a pac of ty-raps on board in the "possibles box" along with other items like pliers, wirecutters, extra knife and extra car and boat keys. (there's nothing more frustrating than to watch your keyring sink out of sight.)

Another item to think about if you're a fisherman is a sea anchor. This is a large cone of fabric with the small end open and the large end sporting a harness to which you attach a light rope and a float. The float is important to keep the sea anchor from sinking and getting fouled on the bottom or other underwater obstructions. Position the float no farther than three feet from the harness. The float doubles as a visual indicator of drift direction.

Sea anchors are used to slow down the drift for drift fishing, which is a VERY productive way to fish for catfish, stripers, and other bottom-dwelling species.
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#14
Hey there tkishkape I drilled a new hole in my fixed anchor and attached my chain to it I put the hole down by the flukes. When you say ty-rap are you refurring to plastic wire ties used to bundle wires together to help keep them neat? Or the ties you would find on the bag of a loaf of bread? Thanks.
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#15
[Smile] A Ty-rap is the brand name for a plastic or nylon zip-tie used as you suggested, to bundle wires into a neat cylinder under the dash or in an electrical panel.

The best ones are nylon with a nylon tooth in the head. Some have a metal tooth that locks the tye in place. They work well, but can rust after a while in a humid environment.

A bread wrapper tie is good for keeping the bugs out of the bread... period.
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#16
[cool][cool]We are on the same page. Thanks again for the tip.
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#17
hey take it back or inform them they sold you[reply] a boat trailer without one!!!
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