03-19-2004, 10:49 PM
[blue][size 1][cool]Anyone who has dropped in on this board knows that I am always dreamin' and schemin' about different rod rack designs. Here is the latest.[/size][/blue]
[#0000ff][size 1]First, I have been working to cut down the weight on my rod racks. Most of my eariier models use a couple of pieces of wood, for cross braces, and the heavy schedule 40 PVC. I have also been making a four tube design, that allows me to carry five rods on each trip...one operational and four in reserve.[/size][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][size 1]The first thing I did was reduce the tubes to three. I almost never use ALL five rods. The next thing I did was pick up some 1" schedule 20 PVC, which is about half the weight of schedule 40. Unfurtunately, it does not come in the 1 1/4" size I prefer, to accomodate my larger handled rods. So, I will use it for my light spinning and light baitcast rigs only. But, using the same design, you can make one out of schedule 40 PVC and still save SOME weight.[/size][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][size 1]I designed this rack to fit my Super Fat Cat. The side D rings are 12 inches apart, so I made the two outside tubes exactly 12 inches apart on center. That allowed me to insert them down into the fitted nylon rope loops to hold them in position at the top. Easy in and out. As you can see in one of the pics, I secure the bottom (from flopping) with a bunbee cord tied to two bottom D rings and then looped up over a S ring attached to the bottom of the middle tube.[/size][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][size 1]The progressive pics show the precut tubes...14" in length...and the 1"X2" hardwood (pine is okay) for the cross support. It also shows the 1" pipe hanger straps used to secure the tubes to the wood.[/size][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][size 1]I burned the wood with a torch and then applied 3 coats of urethane finish to seal it. The notches for the reel handles were fast work with a Dremel and a rotating drum sander.[/size][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][size 1]Before screwing down the prepared tubes, I made a single wrap of 1/2 width duct tape, to increase fit and friction and to keep the tubes from rotating or slipping up or down. Epoxy would work also. I left about six inches above the wood, to help keep the reels high up off the water. That is helpful where you are getting splashes...especially in salt water. The remaining tube, below the wood, serves as stability against slippage and rotation. If the loops are properly adjusted, the rods will ride straight up, or at a slight outward angle. Too tight and they will angle in toward the angler and make for tangles...or broken rods on vigorous hooksets.[/size][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][size 1]Once the basic frame and tube components are put together, the rack can be installed on float tubes, pontoons, boats or snowmobiles. Screw them down or use some kind of clamp arrangement.[/size][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][size 1]My previous rack weighed just over 3 pounds. This one weighed just a couple of ounces over a pound. As I mentioned, the same principle will work for any size tubing, of any material, as long as you can find the right sized galvanized pipe hanging straps. That has been the key to making this work. Before that, I needed to drill holes in the tubing and screw it into the wood frame.[/size][/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff][size 1]First, I have been working to cut down the weight on my rod racks. Most of my eariier models use a couple of pieces of wood, for cross braces, and the heavy schedule 40 PVC. I have also been making a four tube design, that allows me to carry five rods on each trip...one operational and four in reserve.[/size][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][size 1]The first thing I did was reduce the tubes to three. I almost never use ALL five rods. The next thing I did was pick up some 1" schedule 20 PVC, which is about half the weight of schedule 40. Unfurtunately, it does not come in the 1 1/4" size I prefer, to accomodate my larger handled rods. So, I will use it for my light spinning and light baitcast rigs only. But, using the same design, you can make one out of schedule 40 PVC and still save SOME weight.[/size][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][size 1]I designed this rack to fit my Super Fat Cat. The side D rings are 12 inches apart, so I made the two outside tubes exactly 12 inches apart on center. That allowed me to insert them down into the fitted nylon rope loops to hold them in position at the top. Easy in and out. As you can see in one of the pics, I secure the bottom (from flopping) with a bunbee cord tied to two bottom D rings and then looped up over a S ring attached to the bottom of the middle tube.[/size][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][size 1]The progressive pics show the precut tubes...14" in length...and the 1"X2" hardwood (pine is okay) for the cross support. It also shows the 1" pipe hanger straps used to secure the tubes to the wood.[/size][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][size 1]I burned the wood with a torch and then applied 3 coats of urethane finish to seal it. The notches for the reel handles were fast work with a Dremel and a rotating drum sander.[/size][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][size 1]Before screwing down the prepared tubes, I made a single wrap of 1/2 width duct tape, to increase fit and friction and to keep the tubes from rotating or slipping up or down. Epoxy would work also. I left about six inches above the wood, to help keep the reels high up off the water. That is helpful where you are getting splashes...especially in salt water. The remaining tube, below the wood, serves as stability against slippage and rotation. If the loops are properly adjusted, the rods will ride straight up, or at a slight outward angle. Too tight and they will angle in toward the angler and make for tangles...or broken rods on vigorous hooksets.[/size][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][size 1]Once the basic frame and tube components are put together, the rack can be installed on float tubes, pontoons, boats or snowmobiles. Screw them down or use some kind of clamp arrangement.[/size][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][size 1]My previous rack weighed just over 3 pounds. This one weighed just a couple of ounces over a pound. As I mentioned, the same principle will work for any size tubing, of any material, as long as you can find the right sized galvanized pipe hanging straps. That has been the key to making this work. Before that, I needed to drill holes in the tubing and screw it into the wood frame.[/size][/#0000ff]
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]thanks for the ideas, and the how to on getting it done, I think I may utilize this rack for my toon, that is when I get it.. [cool]
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