03-27-2004, 08:38 PM
The plastic worm has come to be regarded, by the majority of anglers, as the single most effective lure for bassin'. A survey of five professional guides from around the country, gentlemen whose livings depend on continually catching fish, regardless of season and conditions, indicated that better than 50 percent of their catches were attributed to the worm. Additionally, our panel of experts noted that 'versatility' was often a major factor in successfully coping with water, terrain, weather and seasonal variations. They described a variety of rigging and presentation methods which can greatly assist the weekend angler in improving his or her success rate.
Across the board, our pro's agreed that their most frequently used outfit was the standard 'Texas' rig (a bullet-shaped slip sinker ahead of a worm, with the hook imbedded in the body). Even with this most simple of all setups, some very logical variations were advised. Obviously, the use of different size slip sinkers was one technique employed- a heavy one for deep water and lighter ones for shallow areas and grass beds. However, it was a consensus that in the Winter an angler should ALWAYS use a very light weight. The reason being that the majority of bass hit a worm on the drop and cold weather fish are sluggish and not prone to take a fast moving lure. Whether fishing deep or shallow, a light sinker (one-eighth ounce was the most recommended) was their overwhelming choice when the frost is on the pumpkin.
Another variation involved the style of worm. With unanimous vote, our panel suggested using a 'swimming- tail' worm, such as the Culprit, anytime we are fishing around cover features such as grass, brush, trees or boat houses. In these areas, they agreed, a full 90 percent of the strikes normally come on the drop of the initial cast and the action of that fluttering tail is considered highly effective at inducing those strikes. If the cover is fairly heavy, to the extent that we would be pulling the worm up and over it (such as tree limbs), we are advised to 'peg' the slip sinker in place with a toothpick. This keeps the sinker from sliding down the line as it comes over the obstruction in front of the worm and allows us to maintain good contact with the lure. Another variation of this was the use of a weedless jig head in lieu of pegging.
Fishing the plastic worm in heavy grass, such as milfoil/hydrilla, is usually a pain in the tackle box for most of us, but our distinguished advisors had some great solutions. First, they noted that, when fishing grass, a standard weedless hook produces better than one with the point buried back in the worm body and caused far fewer snags. While hard structure, such as rocks and brush, often cause the wire guard to slip open, the yielding grass rarely does so. Second, and fairly obvious, they suggest going to a very light split shot weight, rather than a slip sinker. The technique employed is to fish the lure very slowly across the top of the grass, pausing to let it quietly sink into any gaps or holes. Two of the guides, being from Florida and highly experienced at fishing in heavy growth areas, indicated that they often use no weight at all and just employ the worm, alone. Other times, they offered, when the bass are prone to taking top water lures, they use a small cork or balsa 'head' in lieu of a weight. When working the worm in this manner, purely on top, the recommended technique was short, erratic pulls on the lure, followed by periods on stillness. In this situation, the weedless hook option was considered mandatory.
When using a top water worm rig, it was advised to delay setting the hook until we are sure the fish has actually gotten the lure. This is done by immediately pointing the rod tip at the area of the strike and waiting until we feel the bass take the slack out of the line. Then, haul back hard!
Another method of rigging is referred to as the 'swimming worm'. Some of us recognize this configuration as one which had its start, and has for years enjoyed great success, in tidal water areas. Our pro's indicated that they often employ this lure on the edges of heavy cover, particularly in the heat of Summer. Even following implicit directions, it normally takes an unfamiliar angler three or four tries to properly set up this lure. Start out with a two-foot piece of 17 or 20 pound test line and tie on two hooks, one at the end of the line and another about three inches above the first. ( 2/0, barbed shank hooks are best.) Now, tie on a good ball bearing swivel to the opposite end. Add a small split shot approximately six inches in front of the upper hook and tie the swivel onto your main line. The actual plastic worm employed with the swimming worm rig should be as hard, or stiff, as can be found. The 'Super Floater' worm which is shaped like an earthworm and very firm, is the best we've run across. The upper hook of the rig is inserted into the head of the worm in the normal manner, leaving the point exposed. The lower hook in simply placed through the lower body of the worm, far enough down to cause the worm to lay in a crescent shape. When pulled through the water, the lure will roll in a corkscrew manner and look just like a live creature. This is one of the most effective bass lures ever devised and, after you've seen its action, you'll understand why.
Often faced with the task of guiding a client who is not practiced at worm fishing, our panel noted that the Carolina rig, also referred to as 'long rigging', was a valuable configuration. It is simple to set up, easy to use and strikes are readily detectable, making it ideal for the beginner or individual whom has not yet developed his worm fishing skills. It is also one of the most effective rigs around and is consistently used, but little publicized, by the tournament Pro's. A one-half ounce slip sinker is threaded on the line and a swivel is tied to the end. Next, a three-foot leader is tied to the swivel. The hook and worm are then added. A weedless hook, or a standard type with the point buried back into the worm body, is employed. The heavy sinker gives excellent feel of the bottom structure, allowing the angler to stay in contact with the lure and readily feel the strike. The fishing technique advised was to simply pull the lure across the bottom with a slow, steady retrieve. It was noted that any time the lure seemed to hang on an obstacle, we should gently apply pressure to see if it might be a hungry bass holding on. The increase in pressure will usually cause the fish to tug back and then we can set the hook. The Carolina rig, in conjunction with an extremely buoyant worm, was also recommended when the bottom is mucky or covered with a fine grass. Experience has shown that bass tend to inhale the free-floating worm on this rig and the ratio of hooked fish to strikes is very high.
Short strikes have long been recognized as a problem with worm fishing. The experts said that this condition normally occurs after a cold front when the bass are fairly inactive. To counter this problem, the use of a small 'stinger' hook was recommended. This involves the addition of a short piece of line to the main hook and the attachment of a small, strong number three or four salmon egg hook to the end of it. This stinger is then embedded near the tail of the worm body. If the areas intended to be fished are relatively free of potential snags, the stinger hook is considered good insurance and is recommended for use at all times. If the waters have a high population of crawfish, a trick often employed involves the addition of 'legs' to the plastic worm. This is done by inserting short strips of rubber bands, or similar materials, through the upper half of the lure body. Another recommendation was to add a fine-strand spinner bait skirt between the worm and the slip sinker. One guide indicated that he regularly used the skirt addition when employing the worm in a top water role, primarily to add body to the lure.
When faced with finicky bass, such as during mid-Summer or the bitterness of Winter, two very special worm rigs can often save the fishing day. The first is Charlie Brewer's Slider, a four-inch piece of plastic on a flat jig head. The Slider is made for light tackle angling and is one of the most effective lures available today. In the hands of a knowledgeable angler, this bait will out-fish any other worm rig three to one. Simplicity is the name of the Slider game, in that the lure is simply retrieved in a straight line back to the boat. When using the Slider correctly, the fisherman imparts absolutely no action. Instructions are packaged with the lure. Don't by-pass the Slider because it looks 'to simple'. It is possibly the most deadly bass lure ever marketed. (But, then, I once ran out of plastic worms and used a shoestring with pretty darn good success!)
The second of these 'special' worm configurations is called a "Do Nothing" worm. This is sort of a combination of the Carolina rig and the Slider. It consists of a four-inch worm with two small, razor-sharp hooks imbedded in it and it is fished approximately 20-24 inches behind a large, one-ounce sinker. Basically, the rig is allowed to sink to the bottom and then slowly retrieved, staying in constant contact with that bottom, back to the boat. This is a great lure for fishing deep water areas, since it sinks very fast and gives maximum feel of the bottom structure and any strikes.
One particular item which generated a good deal of debate among our panel was the best worm size to use. After a good bit of give and take, it was agreed that the six-inch plastic worm, with a 2/0 or 3/0 hook, was the most the most popular size. But, it was also agreed that a four-inch worm, 1/8 oz. slip sinker and 10-pound line on a spinning rods would produce a much higher quantity of fish. It was further concluded that, immediately after a cold front, a four-inch was more apt to bring a limit to the boat. However, if the angler's goal is quality, rather than quantity, our panel members were unanimous in recommending the large lures.
Color choices in worm fishing have generated more arguments than a bass has scales. Our questioned panel was no exception, but did agree that dark colors are usually the most preferred. In order of priority, they recommended purple, black, dark blue and violet. However, if your waters are exceptionally clear, light blues and greens were given the nod as a most probable first selection.
Let me give to you to try out. Get a 4-inch Berkley Power Worm in a Tequila Sunrise color and a plain old earthworm. Drop them in an aquarium. They are EXACTLY the same color!!
Scents for attracting bass have many converts and many skeptics. I, personally, consider them to be a 'confidence builder' for the angler, rather than having any true value for attracting fish. To demonstrate, let me tell you of an instance in Alabama years ago. A gentleman by the name of Bill Huntley was making the Bumblebee spinner bait and starting up the now well-known T&H Marine Company (if you have a HotFoot throttle in the boat, it's probably came from T&H). As we were fishing along, I opened my worm box and the odor of anise oil filled the air. Bill asked why I used the stuff on my lures and I replied that I was under the impression that it masked human odor. Bill then proceeded to take a coffee cup and put and inch of boat gasoline in it. He then dipped a six-inch worm in the mess and caught two bass on two casts. I would not believe the story if I had not seen it happen. That should tell us that bass are either: 1) dumb as rocks and don't care what they strike, so long as it just moves; or, 2) they like gasoline mixed with a little two-cycle oil. You decide. Whatever makes you keep the lure wet is the way to go. Dry lures catch darn few bass!!
A few miscellaneous modifications to plastic worms were noted as being employed under special conditions. For example, a small sliver of balsa wood can be inserted into the tail area to get it to stand up off the bottom better. This was considered a good trick when fishing in an area of current, in that the high tail would give more action. Another was the insertion of a small rattle device (a glass vial filled with metal shot) into the body of the worm. This was a preference of only one individual, while another was heard to remark that he had never heard a live worm rattle!
As with any other family of lures, the tackle selection depends on the type, or configuration, of lure being used. For example, if you were using the Slider, light gear and eight-pound lines would apply. For nearly all other rigs, 10-14 pound line on medium tackle is quite sufficient. When fishing heavy cover, 17 or even 20 pound lines and heavy action tackle may be necessary to horse the bass from the area. While bait casting and spinning reels work equally well, there is the requirement that the rod, no matter what action category it may be (light, medium, heavy), be stiff and have little tip action. When setting the hook, we must overcome the natural stretch of the monofilament line and still have sufficient force to drive the hook into the fish's mouth. Fast taper, soft tip rods are, therefore, unacceptable. Very popular now are the braid and fused lines (Gorilla Braid, Spyderwire, Fireline, etc.). These lines give great sensitivity to worm fishing and have no stretch. Hooksets are, therefore, much more positive and require less force. Our experience shows that Fused line (Fireline) works best on spinning reels and lighter lures, while true braids are best reserved for the baitcasting application and heavier lures. Contrary to anything else you may have read or been told, the time to set the hook with a plastic worm is as soon as you feel him. I have worked with aquarium bass at length and can tell you, quite truthfully, that you rarely ever feel the actual strike, unless it on the initial 'drop' of the lure. A bass takes a worm, normally, by flaring his gills and sucking water and the lure into the mouth cavity. By the time you feel him, he has the lure. That 'tap-tap' you feel on the end of your line is the bass gently tugging back at the resistance he feels after he has taken the lure. Quickly lower the rod tip towards the fish, take up your slack line and haul back with an upward snap of the wrists.
While the worm is a simple lure, we see that they lend themselves to a great number of variations. Adapting the lure to suit the fishing conditions can often spell the difference between the success or failure of a bassin' trip.
[signature]
Across the board, our pro's agreed that their most frequently used outfit was the standard 'Texas' rig (a bullet-shaped slip sinker ahead of a worm, with the hook imbedded in the body). Even with this most simple of all setups, some very logical variations were advised. Obviously, the use of different size slip sinkers was one technique employed- a heavy one for deep water and lighter ones for shallow areas and grass beds. However, it was a consensus that in the Winter an angler should ALWAYS use a very light weight. The reason being that the majority of bass hit a worm on the drop and cold weather fish are sluggish and not prone to take a fast moving lure. Whether fishing deep or shallow, a light sinker (one-eighth ounce was the most recommended) was their overwhelming choice when the frost is on the pumpkin.
Another variation involved the style of worm. With unanimous vote, our panel suggested using a 'swimming- tail' worm, such as the Culprit, anytime we are fishing around cover features such as grass, brush, trees or boat houses. In these areas, they agreed, a full 90 percent of the strikes normally come on the drop of the initial cast and the action of that fluttering tail is considered highly effective at inducing those strikes. If the cover is fairly heavy, to the extent that we would be pulling the worm up and over it (such as tree limbs), we are advised to 'peg' the slip sinker in place with a toothpick. This keeps the sinker from sliding down the line as it comes over the obstruction in front of the worm and allows us to maintain good contact with the lure. Another variation of this was the use of a weedless jig head in lieu of pegging.
Fishing the plastic worm in heavy grass, such as milfoil/hydrilla, is usually a pain in the tackle box for most of us, but our distinguished advisors had some great solutions. First, they noted that, when fishing grass, a standard weedless hook produces better than one with the point buried back in the worm body and caused far fewer snags. While hard structure, such as rocks and brush, often cause the wire guard to slip open, the yielding grass rarely does so. Second, and fairly obvious, they suggest going to a very light split shot weight, rather than a slip sinker. The technique employed is to fish the lure very slowly across the top of the grass, pausing to let it quietly sink into any gaps or holes. Two of the guides, being from Florida and highly experienced at fishing in heavy growth areas, indicated that they often use no weight at all and just employ the worm, alone. Other times, they offered, when the bass are prone to taking top water lures, they use a small cork or balsa 'head' in lieu of a weight. When working the worm in this manner, purely on top, the recommended technique was short, erratic pulls on the lure, followed by periods on stillness. In this situation, the weedless hook option was considered mandatory.
When using a top water worm rig, it was advised to delay setting the hook until we are sure the fish has actually gotten the lure. This is done by immediately pointing the rod tip at the area of the strike and waiting until we feel the bass take the slack out of the line. Then, haul back hard!
Another method of rigging is referred to as the 'swimming worm'. Some of us recognize this configuration as one which had its start, and has for years enjoyed great success, in tidal water areas. Our pro's indicated that they often employ this lure on the edges of heavy cover, particularly in the heat of Summer. Even following implicit directions, it normally takes an unfamiliar angler three or four tries to properly set up this lure. Start out with a two-foot piece of 17 or 20 pound test line and tie on two hooks, one at the end of the line and another about three inches above the first. ( 2/0, barbed shank hooks are best.) Now, tie on a good ball bearing swivel to the opposite end. Add a small split shot approximately six inches in front of the upper hook and tie the swivel onto your main line. The actual plastic worm employed with the swimming worm rig should be as hard, or stiff, as can be found. The 'Super Floater' worm which is shaped like an earthworm and very firm, is the best we've run across. The upper hook of the rig is inserted into the head of the worm in the normal manner, leaving the point exposed. The lower hook in simply placed through the lower body of the worm, far enough down to cause the worm to lay in a crescent shape. When pulled through the water, the lure will roll in a corkscrew manner and look just like a live creature. This is one of the most effective bass lures ever devised and, after you've seen its action, you'll understand why.
Often faced with the task of guiding a client who is not practiced at worm fishing, our panel noted that the Carolina rig, also referred to as 'long rigging', was a valuable configuration. It is simple to set up, easy to use and strikes are readily detectable, making it ideal for the beginner or individual whom has not yet developed his worm fishing skills. It is also one of the most effective rigs around and is consistently used, but little publicized, by the tournament Pro's. A one-half ounce slip sinker is threaded on the line and a swivel is tied to the end. Next, a three-foot leader is tied to the swivel. The hook and worm are then added. A weedless hook, or a standard type with the point buried back into the worm body, is employed. The heavy sinker gives excellent feel of the bottom structure, allowing the angler to stay in contact with the lure and readily feel the strike. The fishing technique advised was to simply pull the lure across the bottom with a slow, steady retrieve. It was noted that any time the lure seemed to hang on an obstacle, we should gently apply pressure to see if it might be a hungry bass holding on. The increase in pressure will usually cause the fish to tug back and then we can set the hook. The Carolina rig, in conjunction with an extremely buoyant worm, was also recommended when the bottom is mucky or covered with a fine grass. Experience has shown that bass tend to inhale the free-floating worm on this rig and the ratio of hooked fish to strikes is very high.
Short strikes have long been recognized as a problem with worm fishing. The experts said that this condition normally occurs after a cold front when the bass are fairly inactive. To counter this problem, the use of a small 'stinger' hook was recommended. This involves the addition of a short piece of line to the main hook and the attachment of a small, strong number three or four salmon egg hook to the end of it. This stinger is then embedded near the tail of the worm body. If the areas intended to be fished are relatively free of potential snags, the stinger hook is considered good insurance and is recommended for use at all times. If the waters have a high population of crawfish, a trick often employed involves the addition of 'legs' to the plastic worm. This is done by inserting short strips of rubber bands, or similar materials, through the upper half of the lure body. Another recommendation was to add a fine-strand spinner bait skirt between the worm and the slip sinker. One guide indicated that he regularly used the skirt addition when employing the worm in a top water role, primarily to add body to the lure.
When faced with finicky bass, such as during mid-Summer or the bitterness of Winter, two very special worm rigs can often save the fishing day. The first is Charlie Brewer's Slider, a four-inch piece of plastic on a flat jig head. The Slider is made for light tackle angling and is one of the most effective lures available today. In the hands of a knowledgeable angler, this bait will out-fish any other worm rig three to one. Simplicity is the name of the Slider game, in that the lure is simply retrieved in a straight line back to the boat. When using the Slider correctly, the fisherman imparts absolutely no action. Instructions are packaged with the lure. Don't by-pass the Slider because it looks 'to simple'. It is possibly the most deadly bass lure ever marketed. (But, then, I once ran out of plastic worms and used a shoestring with pretty darn good success!)
The second of these 'special' worm configurations is called a "Do Nothing" worm. This is sort of a combination of the Carolina rig and the Slider. It consists of a four-inch worm with two small, razor-sharp hooks imbedded in it and it is fished approximately 20-24 inches behind a large, one-ounce sinker. Basically, the rig is allowed to sink to the bottom and then slowly retrieved, staying in constant contact with that bottom, back to the boat. This is a great lure for fishing deep water areas, since it sinks very fast and gives maximum feel of the bottom structure and any strikes.
One particular item which generated a good deal of debate among our panel was the best worm size to use. After a good bit of give and take, it was agreed that the six-inch plastic worm, with a 2/0 or 3/0 hook, was the most the most popular size. But, it was also agreed that a four-inch worm, 1/8 oz. slip sinker and 10-pound line on a spinning rods would produce a much higher quantity of fish. It was further concluded that, immediately after a cold front, a four-inch was more apt to bring a limit to the boat. However, if the angler's goal is quality, rather than quantity, our panel members were unanimous in recommending the large lures.
Color choices in worm fishing have generated more arguments than a bass has scales. Our questioned panel was no exception, but did agree that dark colors are usually the most preferred. In order of priority, they recommended purple, black, dark blue and violet. However, if your waters are exceptionally clear, light blues and greens were given the nod as a most probable first selection.
Let me give to you to try out. Get a 4-inch Berkley Power Worm in a Tequila Sunrise color and a plain old earthworm. Drop them in an aquarium. They are EXACTLY the same color!!
Scents for attracting bass have many converts and many skeptics. I, personally, consider them to be a 'confidence builder' for the angler, rather than having any true value for attracting fish. To demonstrate, let me tell you of an instance in Alabama years ago. A gentleman by the name of Bill Huntley was making the Bumblebee spinner bait and starting up the now well-known T&H Marine Company (if you have a HotFoot throttle in the boat, it's probably came from T&H). As we were fishing along, I opened my worm box and the odor of anise oil filled the air. Bill asked why I used the stuff on my lures and I replied that I was under the impression that it masked human odor. Bill then proceeded to take a coffee cup and put and inch of boat gasoline in it. He then dipped a six-inch worm in the mess and caught two bass on two casts. I would not believe the story if I had not seen it happen. That should tell us that bass are either: 1) dumb as rocks and don't care what they strike, so long as it just moves; or, 2) they like gasoline mixed with a little two-cycle oil. You decide. Whatever makes you keep the lure wet is the way to go. Dry lures catch darn few bass!!
A few miscellaneous modifications to plastic worms were noted as being employed under special conditions. For example, a small sliver of balsa wood can be inserted into the tail area to get it to stand up off the bottom better. This was considered a good trick when fishing in an area of current, in that the high tail would give more action. Another was the insertion of a small rattle device (a glass vial filled with metal shot) into the body of the worm. This was a preference of only one individual, while another was heard to remark that he had never heard a live worm rattle!
As with any other family of lures, the tackle selection depends on the type, or configuration, of lure being used. For example, if you were using the Slider, light gear and eight-pound lines would apply. For nearly all other rigs, 10-14 pound line on medium tackle is quite sufficient. When fishing heavy cover, 17 or even 20 pound lines and heavy action tackle may be necessary to horse the bass from the area. While bait casting and spinning reels work equally well, there is the requirement that the rod, no matter what action category it may be (light, medium, heavy), be stiff and have little tip action. When setting the hook, we must overcome the natural stretch of the monofilament line and still have sufficient force to drive the hook into the fish's mouth. Fast taper, soft tip rods are, therefore, unacceptable. Very popular now are the braid and fused lines (Gorilla Braid, Spyderwire, Fireline, etc.). These lines give great sensitivity to worm fishing and have no stretch. Hooksets are, therefore, much more positive and require less force. Our experience shows that Fused line (Fireline) works best on spinning reels and lighter lures, while true braids are best reserved for the baitcasting application and heavier lures. Contrary to anything else you may have read or been told, the time to set the hook with a plastic worm is as soon as you feel him. I have worked with aquarium bass at length and can tell you, quite truthfully, that you rarely ever feel the actual strike, unless it on the initial 'drop' of the lure. A bass takes a worm, normally, by flaring his gills and sucking water and the lure into the mouth cavity. By the time you feel him, he has the lure. That 'tap-tap' you feel on the end of your line is the bass gently tugging back at the resistance he feels after he has taken the lure. Quickly lower the rod tip towards the fish, take up your slack line and haul back with an upward snap of the wrists.
While the worm is a simple lure, we see that they lend themselves to a great number of variations. Adapting the lure to suit the fishing conditions can often spell the difference between the success or failure of a bassin' trip.
[signature]