Sticky Boston Valve

[hustler898]

Got a boston valve on my tube that seems to stick. when I inflated it I could hear a whistling sound alerting me to air escaping. I needed to suck on the inflation tube to get the valve to seal. Just wondering if there is a way I can lube it or any suggestions on appropriate maintenance techniques.
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[TubeDude]

[][blue][size 1]Boston valves. Not my favorite subject. I had them on my 2 Kennebecs and had problems with them on one of the crafts...mine, not TubeBabe's. Mine had a nasty habit of being okay at launch and then developing a leak when I was a long ways from shore. I remedied that with a piece of clear plastic tubing I kept with me to reinflate on the water and reseal the valve.[/size][/blue]

[#0000ff][size 1]Sounds like your valve has dried out while in "cold storage". Either that or you have a piece of something stuck in it. If you have been airing it up by lung power alone, try blasting some air into it from a compressor. [/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]It may be something as needing some lubrication. Do not spray WD40 or petroleum based oils in the valve. If there are rubber or soft plastic parts, the solvents in the lubricants could damage the valve. Instead, put a drop or two of vegetable oil in the valve, and then work it back and forth with your lungs only. [/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]Heck, it doesn hurt them to get wet, so you can even drop some water in the valve to see if that will loosen it up. No steel parts to rust. But, if you use hard water, it may leave deposits that make the valve stickier. In fact, that may even be your problem, if you have accidentally got some lake water in the valve. Or maybe you got something in your spit.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]If all else fails, take the air chamber back to the place you got the tube. I don't remember what kind of warranty you got on that craft, or when you bought it, but it is worth a try to get a replacement.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1][/size][/#0000ff]
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[hustler898]

Thanks TD, It's probably just dirty. I'll try vegetable oil and hope that does the trick. I noticed your fish finder is mounted in you tubes front left pocket. How do you mange that? I'm trying to figure out a fishfinder setup, that's the next tube project .

I'm gonna get a Cuda 168 and am not sure what battery to get yet or where I'm gonna mount the transducer. Just in the planning stage right now. The funny thing is I gathered all this info last year thanks to TD but I can't find where I saved the files, LOL

I also did a "remodel" on my rod holders. Took the original foam off that I was using as the reel "seat" cause they where getting brittle and cracking. I replaced them with weather stripping and that seems to do the job. It's self adhesive so once in place just need to touch them up with a little super glue to keep them firmly afixed. Thank's for that idea too TD.

Happy fishing
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[TubeDude]

[cool][blue][size 1]Hey HustlerDude, I still have all my pics in archives and can send whatever you need when you are ready for it. [/size][/blue]

[#0000ff][size 1]I'm attaching a pic that shows how the display unit is mounted on my Fat Cat. They come with a fabric loop on the front of each side pocket. Very handy for fish scents, drinks or whatever. I used the one on my left side for the display. I first screwed the base mount onto a measured piece of 2" PVC...at an angle for easy viewing. I tucked the extra cable into the PVC, and then I just slip the base into the pocket on launching. It is not as firm as I would like, but it does okay.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]Your craft is like a Kennebec. I can send you pics and diagrams on how I mounted my system on my Kennebec. Basically you either run nylon rope through the mounting screw holes and wrap it around the air chamber...or you rig it to snap onto a D ring for more solid fit. [/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]If you look back a few threads you will see that I am setting up the transducer rod with just a long piece of bungee cord now. Bring it around and loop it over the top of the rod. It holds plenty firm, but can be easily repositioned...or used as a sidefinder. Also mounts and comes off quickly.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]What waters do you have targeted first this year?[/size][/#0000ff]
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[hustler898]

Thanks for the info again. I'll ask when I need it Hit Blue Lake last week was a blast!!! Need a finder though so I can target deeper structure there for bigger Bass. Getting bored fooling around with the 12-15" crowd.

I hit the pond off of I-80 twice so far. The catching is getting better. I really don't float much not since I can get into good action off the shore. The tube comes in handy, acually a necessity at Blue Lake. Thats where it earns it's keep.

I'll float a few other places for sure just nothing planned yet.
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[hustler898]

Ok, TD I'm heading out to Galyans to pick up a Cuda 168. They have them on sale for 89.99. That's the best price I have seen thus far. If you can send me the "stuff" I would appreciate it. Might as well get to work on it while I'm hot

What battery do I need to get to run the sonar?
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[EmuScud]

I have the Cuda 128. By the way, I'm extremely jealous that you can get the 168 for that price!!!! That's what I payed for my 128. Anyway, I use a sealed acid battery (SLA) that is often used for the Aquaview systems. 12v I think. The battery and slow charger ran me about $30 at Sportsman's Warehouse. Works great!
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[Dryrod]

[cool][#800000][size 2]Hi there TubeDude, Haven't had a problem yet but perhaps a little preventative medicine might be inorder. How do you think silicon spray would work?
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[TubeDude]

[cool][blue][size 1]Hey Hustlerman, Emuscud gave a good suggestion. If you can get both the battery and charger combo for about $30...without having to pay postage from Cabelas, go for it. Definitely the SLA battery. [/size][/blue]

[#0000ff][size 1]The Cuda doesn't slurp much juice but it has good greyline and fish finding...as well as the temp guage. It doesn't help you catch them any better though.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]Send me a PM with your email address and I can send more files at one time. PM's limit is two at a time.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]Let the fun begin.[/size][/#0000ff]
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[TubeDude]

[cool][blue][size 1]Hey Dryrod, I think the silicone is neutral, but sometimes those sprays have solvents and distillates in them that can harm rubber. If there are rubber O rings in the valve, that would not be cool.[/size][/blue]

[#0000ff][size 1]Somebody might want to take on a research project in valve cleaning and maintenance.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]Truth to tell, I have never experienced a sticking valve, but usually when they stick open or closed, it is a matter of a small piece of debris or some deposits keeping it from a tight fit.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]I gotta confess that I have used shad oil on a couple of occasions to lube a sticky bail spring. Works great even if it does not smell good. And, you need to clean it out and relube it with a good reel oil or it will harden up and make the problem worse.[/size][/#0000ff]
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[Dryrod]

[cool][#800000][size 2]Hi TubeDude,[/size][/#800000]

[#800000][size 2]When I get a chance I will call the folks at Outcast and see what they recommend. Will post my findings.[/size][/#800000]
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[hustler898]

Got a question about the cuda 168. I noticed that the "face plate", the redished colored "frame around the screen with "cuda 168 written on it seems loose. It jiggles and has some play making an annoying clicking sound. Is yours like this? Just wondering if this is normal or a defect. If it is normal it can be easily remedied by stuffing a tiny piece of cotton below it. I just cringe at the thought of listening to that sound during a float especially if there is a little chop.
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[TubeDude]

[cool][blue][size 1]Hey Hustler, I just checked my 168 and the face plate is fairly tight...not rigid, but it does not move around at all without being pushed hard. I think something in the connection tabs must have broken in shipment. Take it back and double check the replacement before you leave the store. That stuff does happen on almost everything.[/size][/blue]
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[hustler898]

Thanks for the battery info! Went down to sportsmans and purchased the battery and charger. I have it plugged in the wall now . How long does it usually take to charge? Is there any way of telling when it is fully charged?

The battery 12V 7amp although the sticker put there by sportsmans says 7.5 amp ran me $19.99 and the charger was $8.99. If any other Utahns want to purchase a similiar battery and save a couple of bucks go down to your local hobby shop. I stopped in on one at 5400S and Redwood near the Harmons and saw a similiar battery for $17 and change.
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[TubeDude]

[cool][blue][size 1]With those little "trickle chargers", it does not hurt to leave the battery hooked up beyond full charge. It only charges at about 1/2 amp per hour...about the same rate as you use the power with the Cuda. So, I usually leave my batteries on about an hour longer than I have been on the water. Then, I put them on the charger for a couple of hours before going out again...especially if it has been a couple of weeks since I recharged them. [/size][/blue]

[#0000ff][size 1]I have heard that batteries normally lose their charge at about 1% per day, even while not in use. Plan accordingly. You will get longer life and better performance from your battery if you put it on the charger as soon as you get home, and try to keep it charged up all the time. These are not the "deep cycle" marine batteries on bass boats. They should be kept charged.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]There are several makes of inexpensive battery testers available at building supply or Wally World. Most of them are adjustable to test all ranges of voltages...so they can test your little household batteries as well as your 12 volt tube battery. They are a good investment and help you with the peace of mind thing. Nobody wants to hit the water with a dead or too low battery.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]The last two batteries I bought are little 6 amp Panasonic batteries I found on the last day of a gold and prospecting show in Phoenix. Gold hunters use these to power the little recirculating water pumps on their "concentrators". The "last day discount" price I paid was two for $15. [/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]I have used the one in my craft heavily for over two years. It is light enough I carry it to the water in a side pocket of my vest. It is small enough that it takes no room at all in the big pockets of my Super Fat Cat.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]If you look around, and find some of the specialty electronics and battery places that are popping up everywhere...for service and supplies for all the battery powered gizmos we use...you can no doubt find some good deals. [/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]Not a bad idea to take an extra battery or two if you go fishing/camping in a remote area. Better than taking in thirty miles of extension cord so that you can recharge your battery between fishing excursions.[/size][/#0000ff]
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[Dryrod]

[#800000][size 2]Hi there TubeDude,[/size][/#800000]

[#800000][size 2]Back as promised. Called the Outcast people using teflon on the valve. Said it probably wouldn't hurt but suggested to wash the valve with soap and water. Asked him about using a pressurized air canister which he thought would work well. If one is having a problem with an Outcast tube he suggested returning it and they would repair same. His remarks appied to both the Boston valve and Harkley Roberts valve system.[/size][/#800000]
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[hustler898]

Thats the one thing I don't like about this battery. It is so heavy and large. So it is possible to find something lighter and smaller? I'll look around but if you have any suggestions to specific location feel free to que me in. I could always return this one to Sportsmans. The battery would just have to be 12 volt correct? Prospecting huh... wouldn't know where to look for that type of stuff, lol.

Almost got my fishfinder mounted now I'm working on the transducer hookup. I'll post pics when I'm done. Basically just using a block of wood with some hardware attached and bungee cords. It's alot more stable and secure than just running a cord through the mounting holes. That baby doesn't move an inch .

Still trying to figure out what to do with all this frikin cable[unsure].

With the trickle charger could I keep it plugged in the wall indefinately without any adverse effects on the battery or charger? Or is that not recommended?
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[TubeDude]

[cool][blue][size 1]Radio Shack has lots of small 12 volt batteries. Don't know if you have any up there, but we have chain outlet her called Batteries Plus. Look in the yellow pages and you will probably find at least a couple of battery specialty stores.[/size][/blue]

[#0000ff][size 1]This one down here has racks of different size batteries for everything from golf carts to hand tools. Some of them are quite compact, but just be sure you get at least a 4 amp/hour...for a full day of fishing without totally draining your battery.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]There are some high-end chargers that will maintain a battery at peak level and turn off when they are charged. I doubt the one you got is that sophisticated. I would not leave it on all the time. If nothing else, it will wear out the charger faster. They all generate heat while charging. Don't know as I would want to trust that they would not burn out and cause a fire.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]As might be expected, my 6 amp panasonic battery is about 30% lighter than the 7.5 amp that I just replaced for TubeBabe. Every ounce and every cubic inch counts when you are trudging a tube to and from the water.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]About the cable. If you are not likely to be wanting to rotate the unit back and forth to a boat, you can cut and splice the cable. That's what I have been doing, up until my most recent Cuda. As shown in the pics I sent, I folded the cable up and stuffed it inside the 2" PVC pipe on which I mounted the display.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]If you want a diagram on the cutting and splicing, PM me. I think I still have one somewhere. Otherwise, you start by cutting the cable about three feet back from the display...and a foot or so from where your transducer connection is high out of the water. You do not want the splice to get wet.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]To prepare the two ends for splicing, you will notice that there is a coated center wire, surrounded by lots of fine bare silvery wires. You need to strip the whole cable back about two or three inches on each end, and then strip an inch or so off the covered center wire. Twist the two ends together and solder them. Now, gather all the individual little silver wires from each end and twist them together...soldering them also. [/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]You can finish the job with electrician's tape. However, I would recommend shrink tubing. If you use that, you will have to thread it onto one of the ends of the wire before you join them together. [/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]Oh yes, if you do not know about insulating one set of wires from the other, do not do this at home. Let someone with electrical knowledge do it. You must make sure the two sets of wires...inside and outside...do not come in contact after splicing. Modifying the wires nullifies your warranty so if you short it out, you do not get a replacement.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]All in all, it is fairly easy to cut and splice. Just be sure you think it through before you do it. Or as my dad (the electrician) used to say..."measure twice and cut once".[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]If you don't wanna cut the wire, break out the duct tape. Bunch the wire up in a tightly folded bundle and duct tape that sucker. It is bulky and heavy, but if you ever want it for a boat...or sell it to someone who has a boat...it will still work.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]Anybody have a need for a whole lotta leftover cable from modified sonar units? I still got some, and it doesn't move worth a hoot at yard sales.[/size][/#0000ff]
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[BADFISH]

MAYBE YOU SHOULD TRY A CHICAGO VALVE....I HEAR THEY ARE A LITTLE MORE WINDY FROM THAT CITY AND ALL......LMAO....[crazy][][][][laugh][laugh][sly]
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