07-08-2004, 04:42 AM
[size 1]It's one of those warm summer mornings when tree-top-filtered sunlight dissipates mist over glassy-smooth water. Bass fishing was not my intention when I left the dock, but after an hour of pulling a spinner along a steep break, I've not persuaded the lake's walleye to disturb the tranquility.
I round a point and eye a smooth rock shoal looming just below the surface. Deep pockets are peppered amid a smattering of gravel, boulders, and weed patches. It's such a perfect-looking smallmouth zone, I can't help tossing a popper and giving it a sharp tug. The lure spits water and emits a deep gurgle. As I watch a circular wake radiate from it and wonder if the lake even holds bass, something blows up on my lure and I set the hook into living proof. The 19-inch slab is all the cajoling I need to set aside the walleye gear and scan the lake for more prospective smallmouth haunts. And, for the next few hours the lake is transformed into a boiling cauldron of bronze.
Smallmouth bass are obliging. They'll take everything from flies to jigs to crankbaits. What vaults them to the top of my favourite-fish list, however, is their propensity to attack a top-water presentation. Not only is it an exciting way to catch fish, but it seems to attract big bronzebacks consistently. Add the thrill of seeing the strike before we feel it, and the top-water stage is the ideal place to experience the best that smallmouth have to offer.
Shorelines are the most obvious areas to look for bass-holding structure. Points, submerged boulders,
dles between islands, and flats between narrows all have shallow water smallmouth love. A foundation of broken rock and boulder piles provides cracks and crevices to hide crayfish and other bass prey. Such areas get even sweeter when we add cover like a beaver house, fallen tree, lily pads, pencil reeds, or shallow cabbage.
![[Image: james.jpg]](http://www.fishontario.com/articles/bass-top-water/james.jpg)
Similar shallow structure not associated with shoreline is harder to find. Invisible to the angler, smallmouth born and raised over mid-lake humps, flats, and rock piles continue to grow slab-like under relatively little angling pressure. To find promising mid-lake structure, scour depth maps and cruise with an eye on our sonar.
The best summer structure ranges from just below the surface down six to eight feet, but often much deeper in clear water. Bear in mind that relatively deep water is usually a part of the equation. For example, given the choice of a fallen tree half submerged in a broad, shallow bay or over a boulder pile along a steep shoreline, smallmouth will choose the latter. The combination of structure, cover, and a quick escape route to deeper water can lull bass into a false sense of security.
Approach a prospective bass haunt with caution. We don't want to announce our presence by motoring right into their feeding zone. Drift or use an electric motor to maintain a cast-length's distance from our target. This is simple when angling shore-related structure, but another story offshore.
With mid-lake structure sequestered underwater, it's a good idea to drop a marker buoy over its shallowest point. Use an electric motor to ghost in and out of the zone without alerting suspicion. A marker provides a point of reference, so we can orient ourselves to the structure and its shallowest features. That's usually where the burliest bronze is staked out. Cast to the high ground.
Once situated over Smallyville, open the tackle box. My favourite top-waters are poppers. These floating hunks of elongated wood or plastic have concave faces that push water and produce a deep gurgling sound when pulled. Some incorporate built-in rattles for increased noise. Standby poppers include the Rapala Skitter Pop, Berkley Frenzy Popper, Storm Chug Bug, Excalibur Pop'n Image, and Rebel Pop-R, in 2- to 4-inch lengths. I usually stick to the larger sizes. Their increased weight means farther casts, and I'm secure in the knowledge that the biggest and boldest bass are looking up for a full meal.
From the vantage of an upward-gazing smallmouth, the underbelly of a top-water lure is most visible. The best colour patterns will include white, beige, brown, or green bellies. A splash of red near the head seems to help too, likely simulating the flared gills of a worried minnow or the blood of a wounded amphibian.
There are many ways to work a popper. Presentations range from subtle twitching to a hasty rhythmic retrieve. We tailor our presentation to the mood of the fish. The best way to do this is to offer them the full complement, then gauge their reaction.
In calm conditions start with a small popper coupled with a mellow retrieve. This can mean waiting 20 seconds or more after the initial ripples clear, then twitching the lure with a slight flick of our rod tip. The calm of the scene provides a perfect backdrop to an explosive surface assault. However, if the smash doesn't come, the subtle stuff quickly wears thin, and we should crank up retrieve speed and lure size.
Sharp, hard tugs produce a deep gurgling sound, while launching a small wall of water. This action likely represents the death throes of a minnow or frog. Try to simulate this grim reality by varying the time between pulls -- maybe two staccato tugs followed by a 10-second rest. No takers? Reduce the time between sharp pulls, until we're performing a rhythmic tugging of one-second intervals or less. The most aggressive presentation is achieved by a quick retrieve, coupled with a steady cadence of pumping the rod to create a stop-and-start chugging and spitting commotion. This simulation of a fleeing baitfish often draws bass skyward.
One serious consideration is how much water we want to cover and how quickly. If working a small area where we know there are smallmouth, then we have the luxury of taking our time with a subtle approach. But, when we want to cover a lot of water to find bass, an aggressive presentation is the choice. When a smallmouth blows up on a speeding top-water, however, there's no reason why we can't give the potential hotspot a thorough scouring with a slower presentation.
The area we're fishing also has a hand in dictating lure and presentation. For instance, if bass are in very shallow water or lurking close to surface under cover like pads or a semi-submerged log, the initial plop runs a risk of spooking our prey. Then, switching to lighter, smaller lures is prudent.
Weather conditions also influence the effectiveness of particular surface lures. When it gets too rough, the top-water bite shuts off. Just because the wind picks up, however, doesn't mean we can't coax bass to the surface. I've caught good fish in a one-foot chop. Even during storms bass have been on fire in protected bays. When the surface is jostled by wind, start with large poppers and an aggressive retrieve.
![[Image: smallmouth.jpg]](http://www.fishontario.com/articles/bass-top-water/smallmouth.jpg)
I'm a popper man, but occasionally I'll tie on other surface baits. When competing with waves, an elongated dual-prop weapon like a 3 3/4-inch Heddon Dying Flutter or a single-prop Rapala Skitter Prop can spark a boil from bass. A jerk-and-pause retrieve sends spray in every direction and the prop noise is enough to warrant hearing protection.
Buzzbaits, like the Northland Buzzard, also call out to bass. A broad prop churns up the surface, while a skirted jig pulsates below to complete the bait's two-pronged allure. Worked with a steady retrieve, they're great for covering a lot of water.
While buzz- and propbaits are effective in a chop, they also work in calm conditions when smallmouth are in the mood to rumble. When poppers fail, clip on a prop- or buzzbait for one last loud call to dinner.
On the other end of the spectrum, subtle stickbaits, like the 4-1/2-inch Heddon Zara Spook or 4-inch Berkley Frenzy Walker, occasionally pique the interest of smallmouth that refuse all else. They have no built-in action. Just twitching them slowly sometimes works, but a retrieve known as "walking-the-dog" more frequently does the trick. A steady retrieve accented with rhythmic twitches of the rod tip causes these lures to glide side-to-side. Although not the easiest lure to fish properly, it's another important option for top-water bass.
There are a few caveats. Top-water baits are notorious for losing fish. With bass attacking from below and doing crazy things like swimming or even sailing airborne towards the boat, getting a good initial hook set is difficult. Bass will also jump in a head-shaking dance, using the lure's weight to send poorly hooked lures flying with an audible spitting sound. If the factory hooks are dull, replace them with sticky-sharp ones. Attach them with a few extra split-rings in series to make using the lure's weight to escape more difficult. Adding a trailer hook to a buzzbait also increases hookups.
A 7-foot medium-power fast-action baitcasting rod with a reel spooled with 12- to 17-pound-test superline allows for long accurate casts with buzzbaits and large poppers. A similar spinning rod with 8- to 10-pound-test line is better for casting smaller, lighter surface baits. Not only are floating low-stretch superlines great for quick hook sets, they translate instantly rod movement to the lure, for lively action from surface baits.
When the bite is hot, bass will spit crayfish to attack our lure at the initial splash. Other times they'll boil up beside it just to have a look. Sometimes they won't even do that. Instant gratification can be diluted by long stretches of unanswered anticipation. When a promising spot seems barren, rest it and return later for another crack. The difference between an ignored lure and an engulfed one is often only an hour or so. When the top-water stage is set, it's only a matter of time before the bass perform. [/size]
[signature]
I round a point and eye a smooth rock shoal looming just below the surface. Deep pockets are peppered amid a smattering of gravel, boulders, and weed patches. It's such a perfect-looking smallmouth zone, I can't help tossing a popper and giving it a sharp tug. The lure spits water and emits a deep gurgle. As I watch a circular wake radiate from it and wonder if the lake even holds bass, something blows up on my lure and I set the hook into living proof. The 19-inch slab is all the cajoling I need to set aside the walleye gear and scan the lake for more prospective smallmouth haunts. And, for the next few hours the lake is transformed into a boiling cauldron of bronze.
Smallmouth bass are obliging. They'll take everything from flies to jigs to crankbaits. What vaults them to the top of my favourite-fish list, however, is their propensity to attack a top-water presentation. Not only is it an exciting way to catch fish, but it seems to attract big bronzebacks consistently. Add the thrill of seeing the strike before we feel it, and the top-water stage is the ideal place to experience the best that smallmouth have to offer.
Shorelines are the most obvious areas to look for bass-holding structure. Points, submerged boulders,
dles between islands, and flats between narrows all have shallow water smallmouth love. A foundation of broken rock and boulder piles provides cracks and crevices to hide crayfish and other bass prey. Such areas get even sweeter when we add cover like a beaver house, fallen tree, lily pads, pencil reeds, or shallow cabbage. Similar shallow structure not associated with shoreline is harder to find. Invisible to the angler, smallmouth born and raised over mid-lake humps, flats, and rock piles continue to grow slab-like under relatively little angling pressure. To find promising mid-lake structure, scour depth maps and cruise with an eye on our sonar. The best summer structure ranges from just below the surface down six to eight feet, but often much deeper in clear water. Bear in mind that relatively deep water is usually a part of the equation. For example, given the choice of a fallen tree half submerged in a broad, shallow bay or over a boulder pile along a steep shoreline, smallmouth will choose the latter. The combination of structure, cover, and a quick escape route to deeper water can lull bass into a false sense of security.
Approach a prospective bass haunt with caution. We don't want to announce our presence by motoring right into their feeding zone. Drift or use an electric motor to maintain a cast-length's distance from our target. This is simple when angling shore-related structure, but another story offshore.
With mid-lake structure sequestered underwater, it's a good idea to drop a marker buoy over its shallowest point. Use an electric motor to ghost in and out of the zone without alerting suspicion. A marker provides a point of reference, so we can orient ourselves to the structure and its shallowest features. That's usually where the burliest bronze is staked out. Cast to the high ground.
Once situated over Smallyville, open the tackle box. My favourite top-waters are poppers. These floating hunks of elongated wood or plastic have concave faces that push water and produce a deep gurgling sound when pulled. Some incorporate built-in rattles for increased noise. Standby poppers include the Rapala Skitter Pop, Berkley Frenzy Popper, Storm Chug Bug, Excalibur Pop'n Image, and Rebel Pop-R, in 2- to 4-inch lengths. I usually stick to the larger sizes. Their increased weight means farther casts, and I'm secure in the knowledge that the biggest and boldest bass are looking up for a full meal.
From the vantage of an upward-gazing smallmouth, the underbelly of a top-water lure is most visible. The best colour patterns will include white, beige, brown, or green bellies. A splash of red near the head seems to help too, likely simulating the flared gills of a worried minnow or the blood of a wounded amphibian.
There are many ways to work a popper. Presentations range from subtle twitching to a hasty rhythmic retrieve. We tailor our presentation to the mood of the fish. The best way to do this is to offer them the full complement, then gauge their reaction.
In calm conditions start with a small popper coupled with a mellow retrieve. This can mean waiting 20 seconds or more after the initial ripples clear, then twitching the lure with a slight flick of our rod tip. The calm of the scene provides a perfect backdrop to an explosive surface assault. However, if the smash doesn't come, the subtle stuff quickly wears thin, and we should crank up retrieve speed and lure size.
Sharp, hard tugs produce a deep gurgling sound, while launching a small wall of water. This action likely represents the death throes of a minnow or frog. Try to simulate this grim reality by varying the time between pulls -- maybe two staccato tugs followed by a 10-second rest. No takers? Reduce the time between sharp pulls, until we're performing a rhythmic tugging of one-second intervals or less. The most aggressive presentation is achieved by a quick retrieve, coupled with a steady cadence of pumping the rod to create a stop-and-start chugging and spitting commotion. This simulation of a fleeing baitfish often draws bass skyward.
One serious consideration is how much water we want to cover and how quickly. If working a small area where we know there are smallmouth, then we have the luxury of taking our time with a subtle approach. But, when we want to cover a lot of water to find bass, an aggressive presentation is the choice. When a smallmouth blows up on a speeding top-water, however, there's no reason why we can't give the potential hotspot a thorough scouring with a slower presentation.
The area we're fishing also has a hand in dictating lure and presentation. For instance, if bass are in very shallow water or lurking close to surface under cover like pads or a semi-submerged log, the initial plop runs a risk of spooking our prey. Then, switching to lighter, smaller lures is prudent.
Weather conditions also influence the effectiveness of particular surface lures. When it gets too rough, the top-water bite shuts off. Just because the wind picks up, however, doesn't mean we can't coax bass to the surface. I've caught good fish in a one-foot chop. Even during storms bass have been on fire in protected bays. When the surface is jostled by wind, start with large poppers and an aggressive retrieve.
I'm a popper man, but occasionally I'll tie on other surface baits. When competing with waves, an elongated dual-prop weapon like a 3 3/4-inch Heddon Dying Flutter or a single-prop Rapala Skitter Prop can spark a boil from bass. A jerk-and-pause retrieve sends spray in every direction and the prop noise is enough to warrant hearing protection. Buzzbaits, like the Northland Buzzard, also call out to bass. A broad prop churns up the surface, while a skirted jig pulsates below to complete the bait's two-pronged allure. Worked with a steady retrieve, they're great for covering a lot of water.
While buzz- and propbaits are effective in a chop, they also work in calm conditions when smallmouth are in the mood to rumble. When poppers fail, clip on a prop- or buzzbait for one last loud call to dinner.
On the other end of the spectrum, subtle stickbaits, like the 4-1/2-inch Heddon Zara Spook or 4-inch Berkley Frenzy Walker, occasionally pique the interest of smallmouth that refuse all else. They have no built-in action. Just twitching them slowly sometimes works, but a retrieve known as "walking-the-dog" more frequently does the trick. A steady retrieve accented with rhythmic twitches of the rod tip causes these lures to glide side-to-side. Although not the easiest lure to fish properly, it's another important option for top-water bass.
There are a few caveats. Top-water baits are notorious for losing fish. With bass attacking from below and doing crazy things like swimming or even sailing airborne towards the boat, getting a good initial hook set is difficult. Bass will also jump in a head-shaking dance, using the lure's weight to send poorly hooked lures flying with an audible spitting sound. If the factory hooks are dull, replace them with sticky-sharp ones. Attach them with a few extra split-rings in series to make using the lure's weight to escape more difficult. Adding a trailer hook to a buzzbait also increases hookups.
A 7-foot medium-power fast-action baitcasting rod with a reel spooled with 12- to 17-pound-test superline allows for long accurate casts with buzzbaits and large poppers. A similar spinning rod with 8- to 10-pound-test line is better for casting smaller, lighter surface baits. Not only are floating low-stretch superlines great for quick hook sets, they translate instantly rod movement to the lure, for lively action from surface baits.
When the bite is hot, bass will spit crayfish to attack our lure at the initial splash. Other times they'll boil up beside it just to have a look. Sometimes they won't even do that. Instant gratification can be diluted by long stretches of unanswered anticipation. When a promising spot seems barren, rest it and return later for another crack. The difference between an ignored lure and an engulfed one is often only an hour or so. When the top-water stage is set, it's only a matter of time before the bass perform. [/size]
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