08-28-2002, 07:53 AM
Depending on the `cut' of cloth when the rod blank was built and rolled on the mandrel, will determine rod action, and thus the mathematics of Guide spacing to follow the rods action.
I don't use snake guides anymore (did you know there are both left and right handed snake guides and this could be one of the problems)
Try spacing roughly single leg guides,(tape in place) run the line thru the guides and flex the rod with the guides uppermost on the blank. Re-position guides until the line forms an even curve to follow the blank and NOT touch the blank anywhere. Mark these positions and use either snakes or Single leg. The line will flow through the guides at exactly the unfolding flex of the rod when it is cast. It will be a better rod than anything storebought. Read Dale Clemens book on Custom Rod Building for more info. It is also important to find the spine (spline) of the rod, and the above book will give full details on how to do this. Best of luck, Greyhackle, New Zealand
John Morton Masterbuilder, New Zealand [cool]
[signature]
I don't use snake guides anymore (did you know there are both left and right handed snake guides and this could be one of the problems)
Try spacing roughly single leg guides,(tape in place) run the line thru the guides and flex the rod with the guides uppermost on the blank. Re-position guides until the line forms an even curve to follow the blank and NOT touch the blank anywhere. Mark these positions and use either snakes or Single leg. The line will flow through the guides at exactly the unfolding flex of the rod when it is cast. It will be a better rod than anything storebought. Read Dale Clemens book on Custom Rod Building for more info. It is also important to find the spine (spline) of the rod, and the above book will give full details on how to do this. Best of luck, Greyhackle, New Zealand
John Morton Masterbuilder, New Zealand [cool]
[signature]