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Contrasting Colors
#1
[cool][size 1][#0000ff]I got a request last week to try to duplicate some jigheads that were no longer being made by a former supplier. Piece of cake. Turned out they were what I have known as "dipheads" for many years. First started using them on shad dart jigs in Sacramento back in the 70's. Have seen and used them since, in many color combos, for a wide range of species in both fresh and salt water.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The sample provided, by one of Utah's walleye pros, was a 1/16 oz head on a 2/0 bronze jig hook. I make and use a lot of those. They are great for fishing shallow water where there are lots of rocks, like the Lincoln Beach area of Utah Lake. They are also great for fishing areas of rock riprap, along levees and dams, where you want a slow retrieve without your jig diving into the rocks.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Thought there might be some others who could benefit from seeing these things. The biggest reason for their effectiveness is the use of two highly contrasting colors. Most knowledgeable anglers have come to know that fish do not see actual colors very well, but they do respond best to lures they can see, in the prevailing conditions of light, clarity, depth, etc. Contrasting colors tend to make lures more visible under adverse conditions. They are also good for enticing "reaction bites" when the fish are in neutral or negative modes.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Probably one of the best examples of a "hot" lure color is the "fire tiger" finish on a lot of hardbaits. That pattern has a permanent place in many tackle boxes and has become the "go to" lure whenever there is a need to wake up sleeping fish or to get them something they can see in stained water.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Going back even farther, many of the early lures were basic two-tones. Red and white, black and white, blue and white, etc. In modern times we see many jigs and hardbaits using chartreuse along with a contrasting dark or bright color. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Contrasting colors can be applied as "dips", stripes or eyes. Attached are a couple of pics that show some of the possibilities.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Many of the best commercially made jigheads today come with baked on powder paints. These are super strong, and there are some great colors available for folks that want to make their own. I still use mostly vinyl paints, with a top coat of clear epoxy, but I am going to do more experimenting with the powder paints to see if I can make them work better than I have so far, on the small jigs I use most.[/#0000ff] [/size]
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#2
hey pat i don't understand what keeps them from hanging up on the rocks! i've used something like these and still got hooked up on rocks and lost many. is the shape of the jig head?
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#3
[cool][#0000ff]There is no foolproof method of avoiding snags in those rocks. But, the combination of using light heads and large plastics help provide a buoyancy or water resistance that keeps the jigs riding more lightly over the structure. If you stop reeling or pull your jig directly into a rockpile, you will still get snags.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Also, when you snag up in those rocks, it is usually the jig head that snags, more often than the hook. Smaller heads pull free easier. And, when you are paddling around in a float tube, when you snag up all you have to do is kick back over the snag and pull the jig back out the way it went in. I lose very few jigs while float tubing.[/#0000ff]
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