11-08-2005, 12:33 AM
I have a little dilema, and figure this is probably the best forum here to bring this question up at, since being builders you guys may know something about reairing as well.
The item that I am looking to repair is a wooden float that is painted (presumably by hand). It is not valuable, and it is "new production". It is worth about two bucks, so fixing it so it may remain usable is my goal. So far, I have used it only a couple times. The stem got damaged while it was in my fishing bag.
There is a little warping and a slgiht break/ crack though not all the way through. It almost looks hanging by a thread shatter -esque, though not that quite severe.
My plan of attack is as follows:
[indent] [ul] [li]Useing a Stanley 199 Razorknife, I want to clean away the most damaged area at a 90 degree angle, guided by a carpenters square.[/li] [/ul] [ul] [li]Since, the damage is slightly above the point where the stem and body of the float meet, I want to join the piece of stem which I removed to the piece of stem still attached to the body. It is my intention to join the two sections with Crazy Glue, then apply force in such a manner so that it allows the pieces to bond true and well. The glue would be limited (HOPEFULLY) to the area between the two pieces and nothing external.
[/li] [/ul] [/indent] My secondary Plan:
[indent] [ul] [li]Is very similar to my initial plan except I would remove the damaged stem all the way to the body, then bore into the body (with the hole being just larger in diameter than that of the stem). I would then insert the adhesive and possibly filler (sawdust most likely) into the channel. I would touch up the finish as necesary.[/li] [/ul] [/indent] However I have some concerns, since I have never performed this type of repair before. Will Crazy Glue hold up to fresh water, or will it give up? If crazy Glue will not work, can anybody here name for me an INEXPENSIVE adhesive which will have similar dry performance, yet be resistant to freshwater, and is available at any hardware or hobby store (such as Ace, or True Value, Lowes, or Home Depot).
Additionally, I am worried about possible watr damage to the wood if any of the paint does get removed, yet touching it up would be impractical. I am considering using a dab of either Water Seal (like what is used to seal a deck) or some sort of resin/ shellack/ varnish substance that I have in my tool box. Would that be a good idea?
I personally believe that the second method would provide for better float structural integrity. There would be a lot more support for the stem. However, if I mess up attempting to perform the second type of repair, there is no turning back, since "you can measure twice but only cut once." If I was to attempt the first method, and it failed, it would be an inconvenience but I could then go back, and attempt a second type repair.
I will be able to post some pre-op pictures this weekend, if you guys would like. I guess that could help you give me advice .I attempted to think about this critically, and analyze all the various aspects of the situation. I can also provide CAD drawing of the float and my plans if that would help.
I look forward to your guys input. Please don't be afraid to provide constructive criticism and other ideas to help me. Thanks
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The item that I am looking to repair is a wooden float that is painted (presumably by hand). It is not valuable, and it is "new production". It is worth about two bucks, so fixing it so it may remain usable is my goal. So far, I have used it only a couple times. The stem got damaged while it was in my fishing bag.
There is a little warping and a slgiht break/ crack though not all the way through. It almost looks hanging by a thread shatter -esque, though not that quite severe.
My plan of attack is as follows:
[indent] [ul] [li]Useing a Stanley 199 Razorknife, I want to clean away the most damaged area at a 90 degree angle, guided by a carpenters square.[/li] [/ul] [ul] [li]Since, the damage is slightly above the point where the stem and body of the float meet, I want to join the piece of stem which I removed to the piece of stem still attached to the body. It is my intention to join the two sections with Crazy Glue, then apply force in such a manner so that it allows the pieces to bond true and well. The glue would be limited (HOPEFULLY) to the area between the two pieces and nothing external.
[/li] [/ul] [/indent] My secondary Plan:
[indent] [ul] [li]Is very similar to my initial plan except I would remove the damaged stem all the way to the body, then bore into the body (with the hole being just larger in diameter than that of the stem). I would then insert the adhesive and possibly filler (sawdust most likely) into the channel. I would touch up the finish as necesary.[/li] [/ul] [/indent] However I have some concerns, since I have never performed this type of repair before. Will Crazy Glue hold up to fresh water, or will it give up? If crazy Glue will not work, can anybody here name for me an INEXPENSIVE adhesive which will have similar dry performance, yet be resistant to freshwater, and is available at any hardware or hobby store (such as Ace, or True Value, Lowes, or Home Depot).
Additionally, I am worried about possible watr damage to the wood if any of the paint does get removed, yet touching it up would be impractical. I am considering using a dab of either Water Seal (like what is used to seal a deck) or some sort of resin/ shellack/ varnish substance that I have in my tool box. Would that be a good idea?
I personally believe that the second method would provide for better float structural integrity. There would be a lot more support for the stem. However, if I mess up attempting to perform the second type of repair, there is no turning back, since "you can measure twice but only cut once." If I was to attempt the first method, and it failed, it would be an inconvenience but I could then go back, and attempt a second type repair.
I will be able to post some pre-op pictures this weekend, if you guys would like. I guess that could help you give me advice .I attempted to think about this critically, and analyze all the various aspects of the situation. I can also provide CAD drawing of the float and my plans if that would help.
I look forward to your guys input. Please don't be afraid to provide constructive criticism and other ideas to help me. Thanks![
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