Your opinion, and help

[Discman]

First off, I'm kind of new to fly fishing, but I'm hooked. About a year ago I picked up a Fleuger starter setup for about $60. For X-Mas I got some gift certs. to a local shop and picked up a new rod. I got a Redington Wayfarer 5 piece. It was marked down to $150 because they are coming out with a 6 piece to replace it (it was great because I had enough left over to get a new ultralight spinning rod too). What are your opinions of this rod and manufacturer? I heard that they have a no questions asked policy about returns, true? And right now I am using the reel from the Fleuger set, what would you recommend as a good reel in the $50-$100 range to match it (5wt. by the way)? I had a chance to break it in a couple of days ago, and I am very impressed. I like the 5 piece size as well because I do a lot of hiking in the high Sierra's to fish.

Now I have a question about floatants. I bought some Cortland silicone spray a little while back. It works well, is there anything that would work better? And recently I picked up some Redington "Dry Dust" and it doesn't have any directions on it. How is this stuff used and what is it? I tried to find info online but couldn't. I couldn't even find a product listing for it. Some dry dusting products show that you drop it down inside the container, but this has a pour spout as if it were a liquid. Any help would be great.

Lastly I have a couple of questions about line and leader. What do you recommend as a line conditioner? And does anyone have any tips on how to make your leader and tippet break the surface tension of the water so it doesn't just sit on top and cause disturbance. I have heard of using dish soap, is this a good idea?

Thanks all, Kyle. ><> []
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[flygoddess]

Redington is a great rod. They use to be owned by Orvis, then went out on their own and then Sage bought them, but I am not sure if Sage still owns them. Check the Redington web site for warrenty details-hopefully you won't need it if you know what I mean.
Any way, It has to feel better than you pflueger. My first rod was a pflueger also. I tell you, I don't miss those days.
How long is the new one and is it fast action?
As far as a reel, try to find one with a warrenty also. I worked for Orvis so I would say: Original Battenkill 5/6 $79. or BBS III $99. or the new Mid Arbor III $119. Another reason I recommend these reels is that extra spools are inexpensive and you will want extra spools.
Floatant I like Aqual. It is in a tube and kind of a paste. I also use Frogs Fanny which is a dust. I love it cause it will help dry your fly out plus help it float. As I say, I use both. I put the Aqual on the dry fly befor I even cast it. Then once a fish has slimed it I put the FF on it.
Some of the sprays are for prepping a fly after you tie it and is supose to sit for 12 hours. Make sure yours isn't that.
Some of the new lines have a coating on them that you don't have to condition them (Orvis Next Generation for one). I use GLIDE line dressing on my Cortland. So far so good, but, Cortland has line dressing also.
Last I am not sure what you are asking on the leader/tippet laying on the surface. If you are nymphing: weighted flies, split shot, or old school-coat the fly in mudd (it will sink fast and the mudd will wash away) If you are dry flying more delicate pressintation. stop your rod at 10 o'clock till your line is straight out then drop the tip of your rod to lay the fly down easy.
As I said I am not sure of the question, also are you talking stillwater or river.
Good Luck and Tight Lines
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[Discman]

I hope I wont need the warrenty either [] And thanks, I'll check out those reels. The new rod is 9' and I'm not sure the action though, I am assuming it's medium. And yes it does feel a lot better than the Pflueger (I think I forgot the "P" before).

The floatant I'm using is meant to be used beforehand. I never use it while out on the stream. I have some of that Glide stuff, a guy at the local shop gave me a bottle with a few uses left in it for free. With the dust stuff, do you put it right on the fly or do you put the fly in it and shake it off?

As far as my question about the leader/tippet. I should have been more clear. While using the dry fly on still, slow moving water, you can obviously see a disturbance caused by it. I don't have a problem using a nymph. What it seems like is that the leader and tippet, of course doing what you want it to do, is sitting on top of the water and creating little dimples in the surface which I would assume a wary trout can see. So again, I am wondering about the dish soap. Dish soap works by breaking the surface tension of water so it seems that it would work. But then, there are two problems I can see. Would it then sink? And the other, would it then cause some sort of soapy slick, or scent, which might be worse?

Also, I'm pretty curious, I checked out your profile. It says you are a musician, true? What do you play? I'm actually a bass player myself. Right now I'm playing with a roots rock band, Richfield. Check us out at www.myspace.com/richfield and have a listen.

Thanks again for the info, Kyle
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[flygoddess]

Kyle, first off in answer to your last question, I am also a bass player, lead singer, and keyboard programmer (Sequencing cause we are a three piece) [url "http://www.bzsounds.com"]http://www.bzsounds.com[/url] Blue deVille and I haven't looked at the web site at ours so have no idea what you will find there, but, I will check yours out
Fishing: IF! I only had one rod for around here and Idaho, 5wt. med to med fast 9' perfect. Rollcasting is so much easier.
The beads/dust have there place. Most like you say, put the fly in the bottle, shake, then rmove trying not to kink your line. I also wipe off the residue from the line. If I can see it, so can the fish.
I have heard talk of dish soap, but there again in still or slow moving water may cause a residue. I have never tried it so, I have no idea.
I use florocarbon line because the light refraction of it makes it invisible in the water. also try 4X, 5X & 6X. I landed a 30+ with 6lb floro. You might have to play them for awhile but again if you can see it the fish can too. Keep in mind in a river holding fish won't travel more than a foot on an average so, they might not see your line. Shadow is another story. Hey, stay in touch and PM anytime. THANKS, I'm gonna check out you site now.
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[Dryrod]

[cool][font "Poor Richard"][size 4][green]Hi there Discman and welcome to the BFT. Looking forward to seeing pixs of your FF catches. Flygoddess has given you some good info. By the way Sage bought out Redington a Florida base company in 2003 and apparently still owns them. Re: Google. I have an Orvis Mid Arbor 3/4 that I paid $139 less a $20 coupon that I picked up at a trade show. At $119 you can go wrong. Most modern day lines do not require any dressing. [/green][/size][/font]
[font "Poor Richard"][size 4][green]Probably the best answer to some of your questions ie: soaping the leader, is to try these scenarios out yourself. Since you are relatively new to FF, the best experience is to get out on the water. The people at your local fly fishing store will be more than willing to help you out. When I started FF I learned the hard way. Went out and bought a rod, reel, line, accessories and started fishing. Had no clue as to what I was doing right or wrong. Oh I did read up on the subject before getting my line wet. Today one can pick up a good FF video and practice in the back yard some of the concepts learned. Lots of good luck.[/green][/size][/font]
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[Discman]

Ok, here's the thought. After much thinking, is my current reel that bad? I am using the Pflueger Medalist, 1494 I think is the number, that came off of my starter kit. Would it be better to get a couple of spare spools ( which would only cost about $15-$20 a piece) for that instead of a new reel? Would getting new, nicer, line and maybe a few types of line, be a little better? Or would you still recommend that I get a new reel?

And I had some questions about other things. The first is, I came across a review on my rod that said to keep the connections waxed. What is this referring to and what do you use for it? The other questions have to do with lline: 1. does one type of floating line float better? I am having trouble with the first few feet of my line not floating. 2. What line do you recommend? Right now I am still using the line it came with (probably very cheap line at that). And 3. How often should you change floating lines? And is there a good online source for discount lines?

Thank's guys, I'm sure I will have more questions as time goes on. And I will post them as they come up. As a matter of fact, I am having a thought right now, I'll wait until later.

Thanks again, Kyle
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[Dryrod]

[cool][font "Poor Richard"][green][size 4]Hi there Discman -[/size][/green][/font]
[font "Poor Richard"][green][size 4]Apparently Pflueger has been making the Medalist #1494 since the 30’s and the Pfoot model since the 80’s. For the money about $20-$30 one can’t go wrong. But still you get what you pay for. If you haven’t abused it [lube when necessary, keep screws tightened and free of sand it should work okay. To some degree the reel is just a place to store your line. A good rod and line are the two essential ingredients of your equipment. You have a good rod and you should load it with a good quality line. However, good fly lines are not cheap. Plan to spend around $50. I like Scientific Anglers Mastery Series which I have loaded on my Orvis Battenkill Mid Arbor 4wt reel. It is a WF specialty line for trout. Cost $60. Once you become proficient with your casting techniques you might want to consider up grading your reel. [/size][/green][/font]
[font "Poor Richard"][green][size 4]Keeping the connections waxed is making reference to the ferrules. I don’t think that this is necessary unless when you seat them they wiggle. Taping or waxing the ferrules to prevent separation of the rod’s sections is generally done on older spinning and bait casting rigs. [/size][/green][/font]
[font "Poor Richard"][green][size 4]You might have a floating line with a sinking tip. Do you recall any details about your line?[/size][/green][/font]
[font "Poor Richard"][green][size 4]How often one changes lines depends upon use and abuse. Fishing fast rivers and streams [/size][/green][/font][font "Poor Richard"][green][size 4]will be more abrasive on your line than fishing out of a tube on a lake. Since I do most of the latter I went 10yrs before changing my lines.[/size][/green][/font]
[font "Poor Richard"][green][size 4]Buying fly lines on-line is something that I have no experience. Since I am also into photography – I will leave you with this analogy – buy an expensive camera and a cheap lens will give you photos that you will want to hide in a closet. My advice is not to load a good rod with a cheap line. I don’t profess to know everything about fly-fishing equipment only that I know what I like and what works for me. I am sure the FlyGoddess can offer you some good advice since she is in the business.Good luck.[/size][/green][/font]
[font "Poor Richard"][size 4][green] [/green][/size][/font]
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[flygoddess]

There is the old saying that a reel is just a place to keep your line, in that case the Medalist will do that. But I say, what if a fish takes off running, I had a Medalist and the drag is Okay. You can't palm it very easily cause of the reel cage (cupping your hand around the reel to slow the outtake down and keep tension on the line). Also, there is a weight factor. Medalist is a heavy reel and I am sure that it isn't working with your newer Redington the way it should. Too bottom heavy and you have to work harder.(a rule I go by is reel with line on rod, you should be able to balance the rod with one finger about right in the middle of the cork)
As far as waxing the Ferrules. Keep them clean at all times. When you pull it out to use, rub the ferral end on the side of your nose (body oils are great) Sometimes the connections will get stuck, so waxing helps to pull them apart. You could also use a candle, but wipe them down every time. If it does get stuck, put the rod horizontal behind you and try to pull it apart that way, instead of in front of you (more straight pull)
Line deffinitly makes a difference. The more expensive lines have a coating on them so you don't have to dress them, which is really nice. WF (weight forward) in the same weight as the rod in a floating (You can go one heavier on weighted lines cause they are a smaller diameter) I agree with Dryrod SA, cortland, Rio and Orvis (which is made by SA with a special orvis coating) and yes you will be looking at $50-$70. But, it will last longer. Try also, putting some floatant on the line where the leader connects to the line. I am sure you can find these lines on sale somewhere, but be sure and look for WF and one with a coating on it. You can get several years out of a good line, just wash it once in awhile and try mot to pull it too hard, walk on it, rub it on trees or rocks.
Nice to hear you are still at it, by the way......Tight lines,
Fly Goddess
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[flygoddess]

By the way Kyle, hows the music going? We have a Richfield (city) here, we will have to get you a picture of the city sign for your band.
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[Discman]

Music is going well. We have had a bit of a break for the past couple of months, our piano/keyboard player had surgery on his rotator cuff. We have a gig coming up in a couple of weeks and hoefully from then on it will be steady. How's music with you? I checked out the site you gave me, not a whole lot on there. Speaking of music, you play bass right? What's your setup? I know this is a fishing forum, but I love talking bass gear.[]

On another note, what about a used reel? I was thinking about looking around. But I was wondering if people would want more for them because of sentimental value not worth. Is it worth it? What do you think?
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[flygoddess]

These guys are use to see the word BASS, they just pronounce it different. I have an Ibanez "Ergodyne" five string (the one I use the most, but I have a Stienburg headless, a Dan Electro[] and a Ferrington acoustic) and a Carvin Red 600 amp head, 4X10" Hartkey and a Yamaha 15". Mix and match.
As far as reels, there are good ones on the marked that are reasonable price and new. I think I would have a problem with a used one unless I knew who had it. Check out Redington like maybe the CD or SV. Cabela's carrys them.
Stay in touch and let me know what BASS setup you have.
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[Discman]

How do you like the Hartke cabs? I have always found them a little "tinny" sounding (I guess because of the aluminum drivers). Right now I am playing a Tobias fretted and a Warwick Corvette standard fretless (both 4string, not a fan of 5's). I have a SWR Grand Prix pre-amp with a QSC 14oo watt power amp. I just got new cabs that I love!!! I ended up getting Bag End cabs and would recommend them to anyone!

Other than that, I am actually thinking about getting the Orvis Battenkill reel. It's not too bad on price and the spools are only $30 a piece. What do you think?
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[Dryrod]

[font "Poor Richard"][green][size 4]Hi there Discman - [/size][/green][/font]
[font "Poor Richard"][size 4][green]Rod ferrules were designed to fit securely without using an additive. Adding wax or similar product to the ferrule might create a problem that you might not want to experience. Have you noticed the popping sound when disconnecting sections of your rod? Well a vacuum creates that noise. An additive might make that vacuum even greater and require a lot of know how to separate them. Speaking of separating stuck sections I just grip each side of the [/green][/size][/font][font "Poor Richard"][green][size 4]section close to the ferrule. Just like grabbing a chinning bar. Then I touch my thumbs and press them together forcing the sections apart. Another method if you don’t have strong fingers is to take your assembled rod and put it behind you, right at the back of your knees. Holding each opposite end of the rod, and with your hands in the crick of your knees, squat a bit to put pressure on your hands. Twist your hands in opposite directions while grasping the rod and spread your knees apart. The added torque you can impart with your legs and the twisting with your hands, will free it. However, all said and done you probably won’t have to worry about this situation happening since you have a new rod. I have only had to deal with stuck ferrules a couple of times and these were on old rods that weren’t broken down and cleaned after using. All my rods are now disassembled after use and stored properly.[/size][/green][/font]
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[flygoddess]

The Hartkey is a bright sound. I like the bass sound of Great White so that is why I chose that cab. I would like to eventually reload with Eminence. I also, use to use a hipshot on my 4 strings for that low "B" but, the five string makes it right there (Black Sabbath stuff) I use to have a Yamaha pre amp with a Crown power, but needed something new and talking to electronic guys heard horror stories about the SWR which was my choice at the time. Got this Carvin just before the New Years Eve gig and WOW! I love it.
Anyway, Battenkill traditional has been around forever and will be there in the future, good choice. A little heavier reel (being cast) but, awesome drag system. In fact I have the larger BBS (which is the same as the traditional except in barstock) for my 8 wt. I know it can take the big fish run plus 350 yds backing.
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[flygoddess]

Dryrod is right about the ferrules. I do wax mine once a year with ice skate wax and then wipe them off real good. But, I do use the nose trick every time I go out. I like that pop sound on my bamboo, but, I don't notice it on my graphite.
One thing I did forget to mention, I got an e-mail from Orvis that for the month of January, by either the LA (which is the same inners as the traditional with a little saltwater protection) or the Mid-Arbor and they will give you an extra spool. Great deal!
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[Discman]

What did you hear about SWR? I have been playing through their stuff for about 8 years now with no problems. And I was playing through used Workingman's series cabs. I can't say enough about the Bag End cabs though.[]

And you gotta be kidding me about the Orvis thing. I was thinking about picking up a new reel at the beginning of Feb. I can't afford it right now[]

Thanks for the info though,

Kyle
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[flygoddess]

My guitar player is an electronic wiz kid. He worked for a friend in his music store repairing amps, and he said that he got alot of SWR, but they would not give out any specs. on them and they were a b&&**tch to fix. You got to understand though, he has been a Carvin fan for years and tried to get me into one for a long time. I was looking for just a pre-amp and even one of the big music stores here said I could do better than SWR. (I think they wanted a bigger sale) I play thru a SWR combo at practise and I loved the sound, that is why I wanted one.
You got some major gear, that is for sure. Unfortunatly, I have to buy PA stuff also and I just bought the Drive Rack (unbelievable)
See if you can find someone to charge a reel for you and then pay them when you get the money. Just a thought.
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[maddawg]

hey Flygoddess,

what type of rod do you fish?

Trent
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[flygoddess]

Orvis, Orvis and Orvis but I have a 6'3wt $29. WW Griggs, a Scott Eclipse 8' 3 wt. and a Sage LL 2wt. I have 13 rods total, but, My ol' man also has orvis (same ones) plus a Winston 5wt and a Sage 5wt and a Steffen Brothers glass rod. So in reality we have 26 rods between us.
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[maddawg]

that's right I forgot you had said you worked from them for a while did you know Andrew Deesing?
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