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WF 4-5-6 wt Floating fly line choices? Whats best and whats just overpriced?
#1
I'm new at this and have 3 local choices: [Image: confused.gif]
Cortland 333HT wf 6f rocket taper.
Fairplay wf 7f
and Scientific Anglers wf 4/5 f
Should I use one of these on my 5/6 wt 8'6" rod or look for something better?
Where does REALLY good line $ begin?
Does it all actually get better with a higher price? [Image: banghead.gif]
What do you use in the 4-5-6 wt range in wf floating line?
Thanks! [Image: biggrin.gif]
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#2
Fly line weights are established based on the weight of the first 30 ft of line. For small stream fishing 30 ft is a lot of line. For small streams, I like to go up a line weight or two so that the rod will load better, thus cast better, with less line out.

Best thing to do is go to your local shop and try different weight lines on your rod for casting short distances.

Then try the same weights at a longer distance such as 40 ft.

Failing the ability to do that stick to the weight the rod is designed for. If you are not sure that you will be fishing small streams mostly then stick to the weight the rod is designed for.

Cortlands 333 is an old line that was an excellent line for many years and you would not be a bad line to have. There are other lines out there that are even better these days. You should be able to get one of these better lines for about $50. Which one of those better lines? I have no idea. My experience with latest lines is none existant.

Since you live in Florida, as I remember, and you want this for small mountain stream and lake fishing, as I remember, then you will not be using it continuously. Thus i think any line will work just fine.

BTW, what did you get for a rod?
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#3
I have used mostly Cortland line. My experience with other lines is limited but I will share my personal experience with Cortland. I think 333 is a very good line for the money and I use it for my wife, daughter and winter backup spools. (Ice on the line I think is quite hard on the surface of lines so I save my more expensive line for warmer weather). I like to use Cortland 444 line and I have no complaints. I tried Cortland 555 which is more expensive and I found that it wore out very fast. I went back to 444 and Double Tapper and I have not had to flip my line yet (two years old). I personally like DT line as you can flip it and it will last twice as long as weight forward line. I am not a good enough caster to tell the difference in casting quality. Just my 2 cents.
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#4
[font "Comic Sans MS"][black][size 3]My $0.02, on floating line, go with the rod weight. Floating line is a bigger diameter than a sinking (for floating purpose)[/size][/black][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][black][size 3]Now you being a beginner (again this is just my choice that I tell my students, so take it or leave it)[/size][/black][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][black][size 3]WF5 or 6 floating. Weight forward is more forgiving for a beginner and more versitile.[/size][/black][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][black][size 3]Yes the price of the line DOES make a difference. The more expensive line has a coating making it slicker. Also, you do NOT have to dress your line, or clean it (except if it gets real dirty).[/size][/black][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][black][size 3]My choices would be Scientific Anglers, Rio, Air Flow and Orvis.[/size][/black][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][black][size 3]You don't need a rocket taper, but you need a line that is going to last. [/size][/black][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][black][size 3]Money wise, $59. and up.[/size][/black][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][black][size 3]Keep in mind, the line can make a bad caster good and a good caster fantastic![Wink] Plus floating will be your main line.[/size][/black][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][size 3]Tight Lines to you <'}}}}}<[/size][/font]
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#5
[cool] I took lessons in Seattle, from a guy named Dawn Holbrook. He could cast a country mile, and showed us his talents often.

His theory on lines for the guy who fishes as often as he gets a chance, but not on a regular basis, was the Double taper.

He said that because the lines crack down at the business end. When it gets to the point where the line lands with a splash, it's time to swap ends. And of course one swap and the line is a goner. Just pitch it.

Over the years I've had both cheap and expensive. I never cleaned or waxed a line with the exception of using Armorall on one line. Nothing bad happend, but the line was always kind of oiley feeling.

I always liked the more expensive lines though. They cast better, and dont make so much noise as you mooch the line back through the guides.
Those cheap lines make about a scraping noise in the guides>
About like a large Snake would make as he worked his way along under some Tin roofing. Schroooosh Schroooshe.... that noise's gotta be alarming to the fish.

On Floating lines I learned early on to buy the Scientific anglers lines.
You can buy some Jap lines that look like the S.A. floating lines, but soon enough you will see the differnce. The jap stuff is like white Hemp compared to the scientific Angler lines.

Also the Jap lines are so heavy at the end's, that getting the fly to float gently to the water is almost impossible for me.
However the S.A. line, will get me that gentle float pretty often. It's a talent I only have on occasion.

If your just going to troll a wet fly around the lake behind an electric motor, it dont matter how much you spent on the fly line.
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#6
[#ffffff][size 1]Thudpucker [/size][/#ffffff] [size 1]His theory on lines for the guy who fishes as often as he gets a chance, but not on a regular basis, was the Double taper.

He said that because the lines crack down at the business end. When it gets to the point where the line lands with a splash, it's time to swap ends. And of course one swap and the line is a goner. Just pitch it. [/size]
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I am not sure what you mean by lines cracking down at business end, that might be true in the old days but not anymore. If the lines land with a splash, I would guess more the caster than the line. End swapping is an advantage to DT, plus great for loading up on small streams, plus I will even say, easier to roll cast in shorter distances.
The Armorall thing, I have always heard do not put a pertrolium product on pertrolium product. It might not hurt your line, but what is it doing to the water?
This is from a publication I found and I agree with this article full heartedly.



The single most important thing to consider is that the fly line must match the weight on the rod it is to be use on. Due to the many manufactures and wide range of fishing conditions there is an almost endless selection of tapers and variations. Fly lines basically come in level, double, weight forward and shooting tapers. I am sure everyone has their opinion on this matter, as to what is the best overall line. You will have to decide which taper is best suitable for your fishing conditions. Fly lines come in ether a floating or sinking or a combination of the two.
Weight Forward - This is by far the most popular line and used by most people that I go fishing with. As the name suggest the weight is in the forward section of the line. The weight of the line is usually measured in the first 30 feet. Generally this line will permit longer casting distances. This taper is an excellent choice for windy conditions or long distance casting. If you are fishing in tight casting situations be aware that this line is hard to roll cast.
Double Taper - These lines have a 6 foot to 10 foot tapered section at each end of the fly line and have a long level section in the middle of the line. This line will give you a more delicate presentation of your fly. Not a very good choice for windy conditions or long distance casting but an excellent choice for roll casting. A double taper line can be reversed, making this an economical choice as you can use both ends.
Shooting Tapers – These lines while they are great for making very long casts, lack the delicacy needed for general all-around fly fishing. The line, due to the weight in the front of the line, can spook the fish when it hits the water. This line is harder to control for a beginner. Also since the back end of the fly line is thinner than standard fly line, it has a wicked tendency to coil and get knotted up. For beginner anglers, a shooting taper fly line is not recommended. A shooting taper fly line works well to make very long distance casts and fish in windy conditions.
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#7
[Wink]She said "the splash is probably more the fault of the caster" and she could be right.
With my S.A. line, I spent a lot less time casting. And made better casts.
That Cracking takes place in the last foot or two of the line. I saw it more in my Wet lines than the dry. (I fished more with the wet lines though)
Sometimes the coating on the braided line would chip off.

This could be from 'cracking the whip' maybe?

I always bought WtFwd dry lines. It's just easier for me to get the fly where I wanted it.
Roll casting is easy with most every line I ever had. I never noticed a difference there.
"Mending" or what seemed to me as "Roll casting up stream" was never one of my long suits.
I always loved fly fishng. I never said I was real good at it.

I have some Bass Pro, Sale items, Bright red lines so my old eyes can follow the line. Tomorrow maybe...
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#8
I clip about an inch off my fly line every year and add new butt section or fold my fly line over and make a small loop in the line itself with a bobbin and whip finishing tool. I just do this to make sure of a nice tight seal on the end of the line so it will float and I do this at the first of a season, although I fly fish year round.
I will agree, for the money 333 is a good line and been around for ever. 555 is ?????. Cortland "PEACH" is another very good line. I do use DT, but to be honest, it is most productive on very slow action rods (Glass and Bamboo) because they are so soft, hard to load up. For light delicate all around line that I use the most it is Orvis wonderline Superfine WF. Even like it better that Wulff TT.

As far as that crack, I think that could also be a wrong leader.... try furled leaders. So soft.
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#9
[font "Comic Sans MS"][black][size 3]I guess pictures are required, hard to explain this. I clip the end of the line at an angle. Fold it over to form a loop as big as you want (I like very small). Use a bobbin from fly tying and any color of thread (I like red for an indicator). Cover tag end completely with thread so nothing is showing of the end. Whip finish thread or use the knot used for rod wrapping, either one works great. Put a very small drop of Zap-A-Gap (waterproof superglue). Then cover thread with Knot Sense (very thin and smooth...hair dryer helps smooth out). Put in sun for a few minutes to dry and ready to go.[/size][/black][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][black][size 3]Never had one break on me and very smooth through the guides.[/size][/black][/font]
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#10
[font "Poor Richard"][green][size 3]Now that makes a much neater package than nailing a shocker to the fly line and looping the other end for a looped leader. When or where do you find all the time to do these activities? Ah I guess that is because you are still a young buck, I mean doe.[Wink] Good luck on you outting.[/size][/green][/font]
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#11
[Smile]Oh yes Ma'am, that is handsome work.
It's a good thing we are not sharing tips, because my workmanship wont hold a Candle to yours.

And you were right about a picture being worth a thousand words. I completly misunderstood your explanation.
Grand photography too.
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#12
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The Armorall thing, I have always heard do not put a pertrolium product on pertrolium product. It might not hurt your line, but what is it doing to the water? .........................

........................ Though your concern is valid it may be out of place. If you are concerned about that little bit of petroleum I presume that you don't use a silcone based floatant or oil based floatant and don't use nylon tippet or flourocarbon tippet. We leave a lot more of that in the environment that what one leaves armorall on the water. In the least Any of that is going to take several life to degrade. ........................ I have two Cortland 444 5wt lines that have lots of micro cracks in the front 10 ft of line. Lots of dirt in the cracks that I can not wash out. the first 3 feet of line will not float unless I keep coating with floatant. Same problem with a Rio 5wt. Replaced it this year with an inexpensive Orvis double taper line I found on sale some where.
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#13
5282jt
How did your rod, line and reel selection work out for you?
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#14
The Armorall thing, I have always heard do not put a pertrolium product on pertrolium product. It might not hurt your line, but what is it doing to the water? .........................

........................ Though your concern is valid it may be out of place. If you are concerned about that little bit of petroleum I presume that you don't use a silcone based floatant or oil based floatant and don't use nylon tippet or flourocarbon tippet. We leave a lot more of that in the environment that what one leaves armorall on the water.


I was thinking more the film it leaves on the water distracting the fish (colors do weird things and wondering what colors are disspelled by armoral) I agree on the other non enviromental stuff.
Plus, doesn't a petrolium product on another petrolium product cause a reaction in some cases. I know armoral is safe on vinyl, rubber, and other stuff, but not sure what fly line is made out of, what does it do to the line over time. I mean DEET will eat fly line, but it doesn't hurt rubber or vinyl.
Just a thought. Why not use Armoral, I put some on my motorcycle seat ONCE and found out real quick how slick it makes that.[laugh][laugh]
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#15
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I was thinking more the film it leaves on the water distracting the fish (colors do weird things and wondering what colors are disspelled by armoral) I agree on the other non enviromental stuff.
Plus, doesn't a petrolium product on another petrolium product cause a reaction in some cases. I know armoral is safe on vinyl, rubber, and other stuff, but not sure what fly line is made out of, what does it do to the line over time. I mean DEET will eat fly line, but it doesn't hurt rubber or vinyl.
Just a thought. Why not use Armoral, I put some on my motorcycle seat ONCE and found out real quick how slick it makes that.[laugh][laugh] [/reply]
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#16
One more question, I have worked in fly fishing stores, been affiliated with flyfishing for about ..... yrs and this is the first time I have heard of using AMORAL on fly line.......why is that?
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#17
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One more question, I have worked in fly fishing stores, been affiliated with flyfishing for about ..... yrs and this is the first time I have heard of using AMORAL on fly line.......why is that? [/reply]
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#18
[font "Poor Richard"][green][size 3]Here is a direct quote from a Swedish professional angler:[/size][/green][/font]
[font "Poor Richard"][green][size 3]Shooting line into the back cast is a necessary skill for distance with a fly line and rapid deployment of line as in the flats boat cast. It also enhances the speed and impressiveness of getting your line out. It is easy to do. Just start doing it and it will come. Lubricating the line makes it a lot easier and if you ever want to compete in distance you must oil the line with something. A lot of us use Armoral or some other vinyl conditioner and there are slippery preparations on the market. [/size][/green][/font]
[font "Poor Richard"][#008000][size 3]To tell you the truth I am not about to put some foreign agent on a fly line that costs $60 a pop. Hey there FGD if you live long enough you are bound to see and hear just about everything.[/size][/#008000][/font]
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#19
Go with the SA. It more money but it last three times as long.
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#20
[center][font "Poor Richard"][green][size 3]Yea - I like S&A's Mastery Series.[/size][/green][/font][/center] [center][font "Poor Richard"][#008000][size 3]Not inexpensive, but who said fly fishing was?[/size][/#008000][/font][/center]
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