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I've used the method in the High Uinta lakes here in Utah. I use a clear water bubble 1/2 full so I can get distance and still see the bubble. Use the bubble as your strike indicator. The Wooly Bugger usually gets hit hard enough that the bubble just dives straight under so there is no question when there is a bite. This is with Rainbows and Brooks. Hope it helps.
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Either a split shot with the line wrapped around it once or a bobber stop. I also have some bubbles that I rigged on a 4-6" steel leader. Makes for easy change outs. I noticed the other day that good ol' Wal-Mart out here in Vernal had the bubble on a stretch cord and an eye to tie to on either end. If I remember, they were called "Bungee Bubbles". I bought a couple packages. I haven't tried them yet, but I'll bet for this application, they will work very well. This works very well in the evening hours at Chepeta. Right around dusk. The day Matt showed me the technique, we had been hiking up to elbow and around the area. We had caught a few fish, but not many and had released all of them. When we got back to Chepeta, we decided to fish for dinner. After about an hour and a half of nothing I headed back to camp just as Matt was tying the bubble rig on his line. About 30 minutes later, he showed up with a limit of 1-2lb. Brookies. I followed him back up to the lake and have been sold on the idea since. Hope it helps.
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Hi Hoobie,
Don't be afraid to use a smaller trailer fly on that larger or main fly you're using with the bubble. The occasional tangle will be well worth the bother with this set up. Fishing those high isolated lakes, a big wooly bugger or large matuka fly with a trailer will save the day. At those times, you will be hit consistantly on the trailer fly. honest!
JapanRon
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Hoobie: The bubble fly set-up can be a real fish catcher. I have tied in a small dry fly about 2 feet above the bubble(barrel knot) and of course tied a nymph fly 3 feet behind the bubble.In a good fly riffle you can lift the front fly off the water an actually bounce it like a real fly laying its' eggs. The trouble with the front fly is that it tears loose many times with a large fish. So I used 4 pound exclusively on the dual bubble set up. 2 pound, my favorite, works OK with only a trailer.I have also found that a sparsly tied trailer moves through the water better than some of the larger bulky flys like Wooley Bugger'etc.I have my own creation made from the Sears Yarn Shop from a material called "Mohlon"(I think) When you tie, you reach into the big ball of yarn like stuff and pull out a pinch of fibers and spin it onto the hook shaping it likw a nymph. I used to make a fantastic rendition of a stone fly but have since made them very much less sparse. Just one or two fibers ruffled up work best. I found this out because as the flys wore out from use they worked better.I love to fly fish but this bubble set-up is a real killer on large rivers where you can cast 50 yards to places untouched by anglers. In the upper Eastern Sierra lakes the guys use mostly trailer flies from size #12 on down. They use very long leaders and retrieve the bubble as slow as possible.
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do you always use nymphs as the trailer fly?
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i cant find barrel knot anywhere . . . if you were going to have your bubble, then a dry fly, then a nymph, how do you attach the two flies ???
thanks!
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ok i found this:
[url "http://www.killroys.com/knots/barrel.htm"]http://www.killroys.com/knots/barrel.htm[/url]
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southerman: Yes, that's a Barrell Knot but not exactly what I'm referring too.The real way to tie the knot begins different but ends the same. Can you tie a Dropper Loop Knot? If not, look in that same place for the knot. When you bring the loop back through the knot make the loop about 8 inches. Then cut off one strand at the barrell which leaves a 16 inch leader to which you tie a dry fly. I sure wish I had the skill to get a picture on this reply.
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so you have a dry fly on a 16 inch or so leader , then the bubble, then a streamer or nymph at the end right?
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Yes that's right. Actually an 18 inch front fly is a little long.I start with about a 13 inch front leader. This gives you enough length to tie on another fly if you want to change patterns or you have lost the fly. Fill the bubble about half full so it has the resistence to hold the fly up to skitter across the riffle. Yes, I most always use a nymph on the trailer. In the lakes I don't use a front fly. I stick with a 6 foot long trailer of 2 lb test line and most always the fly is a black or red ant very sparsly tied. If you are a tier I wrap one row of 4/0 thread tagged with 4 or five turns of red just at the hooks bend. The hackle is 2-3 strands of of black darning yarn. Size #16 is the best but I like to start with size #10 and move downward as necessary.
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thanks again, im gonna pick up some ants and try out the 1 and 2 fly technique this spring/summer . . any streamers you can recommend?
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i meant nymphs not streamers . . ???
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southernman: You can find all kinds of patterns on the market. I dont know where you are fishing but observe the kinds of aquatic insects that are flying over the water. Their underwater stage is what you are after. I have found that dark grey or black patterns work best for me. I have my own special pattern that has always worked in the Sierras. Yes, some places are better than others. I described the fly on the fly fishing boards (I think)
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][font "Times New Roman"][size 2]I've Been reading a lot about fishing high alpine lakes alot lately and it says to use a fly and a bubble to cast really far It also says that the fly should ride 1 to 4 inches under the surface I have only used this method for flys on the surface in which you can see your fly and a strike my question is when the fly is under the surface how do you know when you get a bite? [/size][/font] 
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