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Bi-Polar worm
#1
[center][cool][font "Poor Richard"][green][size 3]Hey there MacFly55 - well here is my first attempt at tying this fly. That polar chenille is real fuzzy stuff. Did two wraps, one back and the other forward. The cone was rather loose so I wrap some lead around the shank and shove it into the cone then added a bit of epoxy. While the tail seems rather long so does Bob Hogue's illustrations. Was oing to try it out in my pool but for some reason all the fish are dead. LOL[/size][/green][/font]
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#2
Dry Rod, Try using a bead behind the cone. That will help snug it up. Also a Tungsten if you want to to dive.
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#3
[center][#005028][cool]Thanks FGD I forgot about that bead bit. Was wondering why I had to work so hard.[/#005028][/center]
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#4
... good looking fly dr.. as soon as I get the materials Ill give it a try.. and with FG's advice on the bead Ill use that as well and see how it comes out. ..

MacFly [cool]
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#5
FG wrote:
[size 1]Dry Rod, Try using a bead behind the cone. That will help snug it up.[/size],

That is an obvious solution to the problem of a loose and cocked cone head.......

wish I could see the obvious when I tied up cone heads several years ago.

dB
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#6
[cool][#005028]Yes definately use the bead. The thread should keep the bead secure against the inner part of the cone.[/#005028]
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#7
.. that makes sense to me.. do you situate the bead with the large opening of the bead toward the cone or away from it ? .. I am guessing that you could wrap the thread tighter to the bead with the large opening toward the conehead... course.. it could make no difference either way..

MacFly [cool]
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#8
[cool][font "Poor Richard"][green][size 3]When I did it in the past [which I forgot about] I used a plastic bead. Had several sizes left over when I use to make my own steelhead lures. The size I use depends upon the size of the cone. Perhaps one of our long time tiers has another suggestion.[/size][/green][/font]
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#9
... well knock me over with a gust of wind.. I made a big assumption that FG meant a metal beadhead.. I can see where a plastic one would work just at well.. but.. here I am thinking to much again.. wouldnt the plastic bead counteract.. to some extent anyway.. the weight of the conehead and therfore negate the reason for the fly in the first place.. or is that why FG said use a tungsten conehead??

MacFly [cool]
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#10
[cool][green][size 3]Hey Mac I don't know if FGD uses metal or plastic beads. I'm sure she will let us know.[/size][/green]
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#11
...Im sure she will.. [Smile]

MacFly [cool]
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#12
I have never seen a plastic bead that is less dense than water so it will sink so I don't see how the bead will affect the sink rate of a cone.

I have never used a bead behind the cone to hold it in place. I have always used thread wraps and dubbing or herl to hold it in place. But sometimes the cone is cockeyed on the shank. The bead allows using less wraps and would tend to keep the cone oriented parallel to the shank.

The bead would also allow you to use less thread wraps to tighten it in place. Plus it would add a little more weight to get the fly down so it would aid in the sink rate not hinder it.

Big hole facing forward or back - The bigger hole normal faces rear ward because it aids in getting the bead past the barb as the front of the bead turns around the bend. If you debarb the hook before putting the bead on it becomes a mute point. If the hole in both sides of the bead arebig enough it does not matter which way it goes on. Except it may take a few more wraps of thread to fill in enough to secure the bead in place. The plastic beads I have used do not have a large hole and smaller hole. It is the same on both sides.
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#13
I agree with Dry Rod. CHEAP plastic beads will do just fine. Lord knows the hooks and the cones cost enough already.
I have put a tying bead on before, but again you are increasing the cost of the fly.
I always put the small hole towards the eye. I thought the bigger opening was for building a thread base when finishing a fly.
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#14
... I was just curious.. you know me.. always the one with the questions..

I did not think the plastic would be enough to offset the cone but never hurts to make sure..

..after I asked the questiion on the brass bead opening I thought about what you had said earlier when you gave me the tying lessons and realized if it is barbless it would make little difference...

I did get one comment that said to use epoxy to keep the conehead in place but still use the bead to snug it tight.. I think that was part of FG's original comment..

... I fugure its all good as long as the fishies like what they see.. [sly]


MacFly [cool]
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#15
... now ya'll know I will not argue with the Goddess.. [Smile]..

but have to say it seems to me all are saying about the same thing.. except for cost of metal vs plastic etc.. Im seeing the bead against the conehead would be the most stable with a touch of epoxy to keep it stuck to the hook in combination with a bead to help keep it stable ...

like I said to Scruffy.. I figure its all good as long as the fishies like what they see.. [Smile].. and..

of course ya'll know me.. if it doesnt make sense to me.. or simply dont know.. Im gonna ask the panel of experts here.. they have not steered me wrong yet..

MacFly [cool]
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#16
[cool][#005028]I guess that if I was in a hurry I would just wrap a few turn of lead around the shank and snug it up against the cone. But hey I'm retired and time doesn't cost me anything. Too often in the past I have noticed that the cone on a given fly seemed to be skewed so that why I use a little plastic bead & Hard As Nails or epoxy.[/#005028]
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#17
...dont get me wrong.. what you and the others are saying makes perfect sense.. Id rather do it correctly the first time around than have to keep going back to redo it.. plus.. I would think that the more durable you make it in the first place the longer it will last.. and I can only assume that an incorrectly aligned conehead will cause the fly itself to act incorrectly in the water.. and that if that is the case then that would cause the fishies to pass it by since it does not act in a "natural" manner...

MacFly [cool]
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#18
By the time this thread is long gone and done with, you are going to be on hell of a fly tyer.

Many of the little tricks that we are presenting are trial and error proven, time tested and some are common sense.

Over time you will kick in the gears and even provide some short cuts of your own that work for you.

When you hook a fish in the mouth, obviously you have done something right in making it believe that it was the real thing.[cool]
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#19
...thank you for the vote of confidence.. I know it all takes time and practice.. but also know you can learn a lot by asking questions and keeping an open mind with the answers..... and I do hope at some point I may have better input/insight for tyers who are starting out like I am.. may take a while though... [sly]

MacFly [cool]
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#20
You just hit the nail on the head!!

[red][size 4]Keep an open mind!!!!!![/size][/red]
[#ff0000][size 4][/size][/#ff0000]
[black]If you strap yourself to only one mindset, your fishing will suffer as a result. Trying new tricks of the trade. Finding out what you like or dislike is the key to your own success.[/black]

Never bag on someone for trying or effectively proving something that you couldn't fathom yet.

You da man!! Keep on learning bro. That is how you climb the ladder.[cool]
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