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It is in a 91' cherokee. It pushes about 180 horses, it also has 176K on it, it runs fine has one oil leak. which brings me to my questions.
1. I have a new "o" ring for the housing that goes to the block where the oil filter mounts, it has one bolt that i can see. its a 5/8 head, I have tried and tried to get this to bust loose to no avail. i was wondering if this is a reverse thread on this part, or what i can do to maybe get it off without damaging it?
2. If I wanted to get say a supercharger and do a rebuild on the engine, would i be safe to maybe bore my cylinders out to maybe .05 over or is that too much, i would have a beefed up head of course new cam, race valves all that. I guess the real question is how far over can one bore the cylinders safely?
3. I have some sag in the rear end suspension, I was looking at the add a leaf kits they are pretty cheap. would this do okay with a 2 or 3 inch lift installed later, or should i just get the whole enchilada for replacing the rear springs, that ups the costs a bit but is it better to do that when i plan on a lift kit later on?
Just some questions burning me up, the oil gasket is the one really on the hot plate for now. thanks in advance,
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I can really only comment on #3. I would get the spring refurbished. I had the same problem. I would also have them add an extra spring when they do it. I used AAA Spring here in Salt Lake. Fantastic job and only around 150.00.
As for the oil leak, I cannot tell you what exactly to use to break that bolt free, just make sure that is where your leak is coming from. I know jeep I6 is notorious for rear main seal leaks.
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Pop into the local library and check the Chilton or Haynes manual. I'm betting it will tell you what the deal is.
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all other "oil" gaskets have been replaced its just the one i have left that i can not get apart to fix. o well when its ready it will give. thanks for the info. I did call AAA spring and they sound like the way i want to go, i just have to get time to tear the leafs off and take them there, then drive easy for a day or two till they are ready.
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I own the Chiltons for it, it just gives the basic service and replacement destructions for it all. I can not find a good source for "heating" up a jeep engine past the superchargers you can buy for it, no info yet on boring out the cyclinders or setting up a new cam, or even if its ever been done, wish my grandfather was still alive, he knew all this stuff in his day they made CV boots out of canvas and he used a leather belt as a fan belt to get him from EVANSTON to SLC!!! he always talked to me about cylinders that were "coffee cans" out of those old staight 8 motors like lincoln, dusenberg and some early mercedes and stuff....golly i miss him. any how...I need to get some thing going i will post up more as i go on this....i will start with the springs and suspension.
thanks.
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The jeep 4.0 dates back to the basic chevy six. many of the parts and stuff is interchangable. Get the engine warmed up good and put your gloves on. give that bolt a good pull. I never felt souping up a 4,0 on a unibody rig was much worth it. My friend just did one on a cj and it has been nothing but trouble. If you so the swap and the engine is a lemmon you get stuck for the cost of the rework on the swap out.
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If I was gonna hop one of those 4.0's up, I'd get to looking in some of the offroad racing sites or magazines. That 4.0 is one DAMN GOOD engine in my book & I'm pretty sure there are some hop up things out there.
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Thanks, I will get out the pigskin gauntlets for welding and hit the engine warm. I was trying to pull it off in september it was warmer but still pretty cool at night when i was working so that may have attributed to it. for all that I never thought of running the engine to warm it up first then try to twist the sucker off!!!
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I jsut flipped 177K ORIGINAL miles on this engine. I have put on a new alternator, new belt, new battery (a few times), and retrofitted my A/C to the R134-a freon, the oil gaskets are the "first" item on the engine to have issues, although I did opt to swap my exaughst manifold (for no reason) to the flex joint high flow aftermarket one. I ddint want to wait for the cast factory unit to actually crack. i am also working through 4wheel parts warehouse, its a great place with a office/store here 4wheelparts.com if you want to check em out.
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get a 1\2in. breaker bar that is 24in. long, the bolt will come out or the head will come off. you can borrow myne if you'd like.
you should be able to bore that motor out 30 thousands and get new pistons and rings. but then your motor will run hotter so then you will be doing somthing for your cooling system. never fails, one thing leads to another. pm me if you need the bar. later chuck
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