09-30-2008, 08:56 AM
I've been investigating this over the summer and have a few tentative conclusions/theories which I'll post here for discussion.
One thing about fishing a #10 line .... it compares with a medium weight of lead used in continuous casting. So parallels can be drawn once you know what the equivalent spinning weight would be:
10 metres/30' of no 10 line = 20g/.75 oz.
25 metres/75' = 50g/ almost 2oz.
So this is heavy spinning gear in another form.
Continuing the spinning comparison a bit more:
Casting frequency is greater than spinning/baitcasting.
The final cast is the same, (one final cast per retrieve) but the false casting to lengthen line prior to a final shoot represents extra casts to be made.
If you roll it onto the surface, false backcast back to aerialise it and shoot a bit out, and shoot hard on the forward, that is one rollcast, one backcast and the final cast. Triple the casting work of a spinner/baitcaster.
If you need one more false cast it is quadruple the casts of a spining rod.
Developing the ability to shoot long lengths is highly desirable. It reduces false casting greatly, since the false casts are all about getting more line aerialised, and if you can shoot both forwards, and backwards you do fewer false casts.
This means double haul is the best casting style,because this technique gets the most line out fastest.
If you retrieve it in close, for following fish, a shorter no 12 shooting head could be better than a longer no 10 shooting head which weighs the same, because the shorter SH can be got outside the tip ring quicker, ready to shoot again.
A fast sinking line will be better than a thicker floating line with more air resistance, and fly streamlining assumes importance, from the point of view of conserving energy by less casting.
Having a lower (below the reel) handle extension is desirable to spread the load, dividing it between both arms if one begins to tire, but the day is not over. It will also keep the spinning reel clear of obstructions while fighting fish.
The extension could be removable, although on my rods it is fixed. That would be handy, just pop it on whjen you hook one, or when you want to do 10 mins double handed to give your arm some rest, but without stopping.
For medium range 15-25 metre/yrd casting, a very good trick is to place a wrist strap around your wrist and the rod below the reel, and this moves leverage onto the forearm from the wrist, a major improvement.
On many occasions I have velcroed the storm cuffs of my jacket tight to make an instant wrist strap for the lower fly rod handle. This works very well and increases distance with single handed casting heavy lines by stiffening the arm holding the rod at the application of the power stroke. Without it a little give at the wrist at that moment will reduce distance.
I had an interesting conversation with Del Canty during the summer on the subject of extra large flies for big fish and casting them, and he put me wise to waterproofing of the fly. This means making large flies that shuck the water off on liftoff.
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One thing about fishing a #10 line .... it compares with a medium weight of lead used in continuous casting. So parallels can be drawn once you know what the equivalent spinning weight would be:
10 metres/30' of no 10 line = 20g/.75 oz.
25 metres/75' = 50g/ almost 2oz.
So this is heavy spinning gear in another form.
Continuing the spinning comparison a bit more:
Casting frequency is greater than spinning/baitcasting.
The final cast is the same, (one final cast per retrieve) but the false casting to lengthen line prior to a final shoot represents extra casts to be made.
If you roll it onto the surface, false backcast back to aerialise it and shoot a bit out, and shoot hard on the forward, that is one rollcast, one backcast and the final cast. Triple the casting work of a spinner/baitcaster.
If you need one more false cast it is quadruple the casts of a spining rod.
Developing the ability to shoot long lengths is highly desirable. It reduces false casting greatly, since the false casts are all about getting more line aerialised, and if you can shoot both forwards, and backwards you do fewer false casts.
This means double haul is the best casting style,because this technique gets the most line out fastest.
If you retrieve it in close, for following fish, a shorter no 12 shooting head could be better than a longer no 10 shooting head which weighs the same, because the shorter SH can be got outside the tip ring quicker, ready to shoot again.
A fast sinking line will be better than a thicker floating line with more air resistance, and fly streamlining assumes importance, from the point of view of conserving energy by less casting.
Having a lower (below the reel) handle extension is desirable to spread the load, dividing it between both arms if one begins to tire, but the day is not over. It will also keep the spinning reel clear of obstructions while fighting fish.
The extension could be removable, although on my rods it is fixed. That would be handy, just pop it on whjen you hook one, or when you want to do 10 mins double handed to give your arm some rest, but without stopping.
For medium range 15-25 metre/yrd casting, a very good trick is to place a wrist strap around your wrist and the rod below the reel, and this moves leverage onto the forearm from the wrist, a major improvement.
On many occasions I have velcroed the storm cuffs of my jacket tight to make an instant wrist strap for the lower fly rod handle. This works very well and increases distance with single handed casting heavy lines by stiffening the arm holding the rod at the application of the power stroke. Without it a little give at the wrist at that moment will reduce distance.
I had an interesting conversation with Del Canty during the summer on the subject of extra large flies for big fish and casting them, and he put me wise to waterproofing of the fly. This means making large flies that shuck the water off on liftoff.
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