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Bamboo & Pflueger
#1
Really wanted a bamboo rod as I am a carpenter and guitarist who loves old stuff and there is something special about wood. Really had to weed through a bunch of stuff to dig these out but now starting to feel pretty set up. These rods are bucks but I think I got lucky, hoping someone may recognize. says it's 8" and a "couple" of inches. says xlnt cond.

Quick search before auction ended turned up nothing but I know quality when I see it and view this item as worn (which is good) shows how integrity standing test of time, that is some nice looking bamboo as well, like the patina. "JUST" scored it for $44, a buck over competitor bid,

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And this reel that jumped into my life for another 5 bucks

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So now have two rigs all spooled up with ???, 20 flies ,new line, and looking more at flies and wondering about what else ?? leader and tippet ?? do my flies tie right to the line ? I sure like old stuff, reel is from the fifties, supposed to function flawlessly, figure all this stuff lasted well this long ........



thanks for looking

BFS [fishin]
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#2
I know squat about boo rods and old reels.. but there are those here that can help you out with that..

in answer to your one question.. no.. you do not attach the fly directly to the line.. that is what the leader and tippet are for..

the leader is attached to the fly line.. and the tippet is attached to the leader.. the tippet is what is attached to the fly..

as for knots to do all of this tying.. you use a a nail knot to attache the backing to the fly line...and then the fly line to the leader (most new fly lines come with a welded loop and that means you dont have to use the nail knot for this connection)....

for the newer fly lines with welded loop you can use a perfection loop to connect the fly line and the leader in a loop to loop fashion..

to connec the tippet to the leader you can use the perfection loop..

to tie the fly to the tippet you can use aclinch knot.. and improved clinch knot.. or a surgeons loop..

here is a site that shows you how to tie the knots you dont already know..

[url "http://www.killroys.com/knots/knots.htm"]how to tie knots..[/url]

there are lots of knot tying tools out there if you want to get em... I have two different ones..

one is the [url "http://www.yagersflies.com/tiefknottyer.html"]tie-fast knot tool[/url] and use this for the backing to fly line knot.. and the fly line to leader if needed..

I also use the [url "http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_22913____SearchResults"]clinch knot tool[/url] for the tippet to fly knot..

MacFly
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#3
That's what I thought, so .. ?? buy leader material in spool and I guess tippets come in packs but do I need with tapered line ? and i see some leaders float and some sink,

Is that the difference between a wet and dry fly, ? [crazy] been watchin vids on youtube they have a vid for everything , will spend some time later watching a few more. scored a dozen of these Adams Dry Flies too. They look close to stuff here now.

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BFS [fishin]
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#4
Don't get too excited about the BAMBOO yet. Remember, back in DRY ROD's days[laugh] Bamboo was all they had. There was allot of CRAP! Like the Montegue, The H & I, etc. (they are the Chinese made DAN ELECTRO's[Wink]) They were cheap also and still are. Long, Heavy, and made for wet flies with shorter for dries. Very tiresome to cast. For the price that could be what you got. If you choose to fish it, don't think all BAMBOO are like it. The more expensive ones are lighter and cast beautifully.
One other thig, when putting the pieces together, be sure to line the guides up before hand. DO NOT TWIST THE SECTIONS! It should also have a nice POP when separated.
Most the higher price and newer rods also have a coating on them. The older ones need to be TOTALLY dried before storing (which is irrelevant in that I still make sure all my rods are dry).
Some also have smaller guides made for SILK lines, whiuch could make it tough to cast a DT.

Leaders are a must Plus they MUST be taperd (except on sinking lines). You can get kits and make your own, or in my case I use FURLED LEADERS and just add tippet.

Tippet is the piece that connects the fly. Even if you buy a premade Tapered Leader, it is always good to attach at least a foot of equal or smaller tippet to the end. This makles the leader last longer as, when you get to the connection knopt, it is time to add another piece.
I also use regular fishing line for tippet.
In most cases you start with the #9. Then subtract the X on fly leaders/tippet and that gives you a rough idea of the lb
EX: 9 - 5X = 4 lb. But all manufacturers have a slight difference and FLUOROCARBON is rated stronger at smaller diameter.


Drie flies, sit on top. Wet flies CAN be fished as a dry, but are designed to be fished in the film to the bottom.
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#5
Hi flygoddess, thanks for the (valuable as always) info. Know am taking a chance as far as performance goes, figure if it turns out to be a winner, great. If not, I am buying related items on ebay to turn them also, there is no question in my mind can at least get my money back, what I am hoping for is a one off by a quality craftsman maybe made for himself (one of those types that has to have the very best of everything) as I could find zero info on it. for me ,, it's the excitement like pulling the slots and this is the time it's spinning but have way better odds lol.

That's how I ended up with a drool guitar rig, a dozen fine axes and parts plus money ahead . I will indeed be buying a new composite rod, and probably from a shop where I can feel once I have a good idea relative to the rigs I have getting started, indeed have all your other rod opinions logged [Wink], hoping the glass rod turns out to be a keeper. Beauty is, I still am at about the original $100 bucks to get started that I first shared with Macfly . And unlike guitars, this I can do [laugh] .

Check this out, won while was asleep, $35 shipped,
I know this has to be a deal And I will indeed be using !! just the original Thompson model A vice should be well worth it and have sort of looked at what it comes with (stuff adds up) and am excited to recieve : This is what the post read : estate sale ??

[Image: s.gif] HERE IS A LOT OF OLD FLY FISHING ITEMS. THERE IS A BOX OF ORIGINAL THOMPSON MODEL A FLY-TYERS VISE. BAGS OF FEATHERS, DUCK QUILLS,WHITE CALF, MUSKRAT,DEER HAIR,RED FOX, AND UNMARKED PACKAGES. HOOKS, STRING. EVERYTHING TO MAKE FLY-FISHING HOOKS..I SEE A PEACOCK FEATHER ALSO.

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thanks flygoddess,

BFS [fishin]
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#6
$35.!!!!!! SCORE![cool]
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#7
leaders come in packs.. usually of two.. tapered.. and sized to rod wt.. ie. 6wt to 6wt..

tippet comes in spools.. usually small spools.. but.. as FG said you can use regular fishihng line (she uses fluro ) and just size it as she gave the example..

so roughly.. I was told 10 as a base at one time.. but Ill go with 9...

2x tippet = 9-2 = 7pound line
3x tippet = 9-3 = 6 pound line..and so on

now I am sure the next question is.. how do I know what tippet to use with what fly??

as I was told once.. again rough estimate..

divide the fly size by 3 and the result is your tippet size..

i.e.

size 12 fly = 12/3 = 4x tippet = 5 pound line..

size 16 fly = 16/3 = 5x tippet = 4 pound line (this one is in between meaning it does not divide evenly.. so you could use a 5x or 6 x tippet.. or 4 or 3 pound line.. I usually go for the heavier side.. )..

MacFly [cool]
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#8
I know, 37 bucks now lol, just had to send her 2 bucks for ins lol. I can seeriously get into tying flies, love little meticulous stuff and wouldn't it be something to fool Mother Nature ,

Butter, .... Parkay (on Rainbow Trout) !!!!! [laugh]

BFS [fishin]
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#9
Thanks Mac, that is some really good info, I like formulas
(at least a place to start)

I have hundereds of flies on the way LMAO they were literally pennies, understandably Chinese unravellers but at 25 cents a copy, have many different ones to try to match the bugs and no tears if lost (or unravelled). Bought a tying vise and bunch of materials too so will have lots to mess with while snowed in.

Very much inspired as well by DR's response about fishing in the snow too, will be the guy with my tracked snowblower parked beside me at the river , nice path to truck [laugh].

thanks

BFS [fishin]
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#10
again.. on those "cheapie" flies.. that dab of head cement will save you a lot of unraveling..

MacFly
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#11
Thats what I was wondering , got tying stuff on the way too, have vice and even scored a magnifying glass deal with little clamplike well heck.. this thingy

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we can fix em lol, stuff will be so handy for my electronics stuff too .

so head cement huh ? I used to use only Permatex #2 on my heads but now go with the Ultra Grey and stick with Fel-Pro gaskets, isn't that going to be too heavy ?

lol, will look it up, is a "fly fishing" item ??


BFS [fishin]
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#12
lol.. when you get to that fly shop in town.. ask them for head cement.. or if you want you can look like at basspro or cabelas and order it in... it lasts forever.. lol..

MacFly [cool]
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#13
[center][font "Garamond"][#008000][size 4][Image: happy.gif]Oh no not the stuff men used to afix their rug from blowing away. LOL Well if you get serious about fly tying then you are going to have to visit places like Mary Anns, Michaels, Tall Mouse etc. They have all kinds of goodies that fly tiers may need plus they are much are a much less expensive place to shop. Sally Hansen Hard As Nails is another product that should be in your goody box. BTW MacFly was making reference to Fly Head Cement.[/size][/#008000][/font]
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#14
Looking on eBay right now, is 6 to 15 bucks, different ones too, looks to me to be same thing as laquer model paint ?? that would sure work and of course comes in all colors, will look further into. see water soluble too , hmm. bunch of stuff coming with that vice I bought. Better see what all comes. I see I can get a 24 color lot with clears glowers and thinner with two tubes of glue for price of one bottle Lagarton laquer and shimmer which is probably suspended crushed aluminum or similar, can get lots of stuff like that in "hobbies and crafts" for a fraction of what appears to be same substance that has "fly" on it ??, feathers, fur & all.

BFS [fishin]
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#15
[laugh] , hey Dryrod lol, what I am actually finding is all the materials save the hooks of course are available for pennies on the dollar of fly shops by searching say "elk hair" or "whatever feather" " particular bead" "colored wire" on ebay and getting deals out of the hobbies and crafts dealers. Way way cheaper [cool] .

Hey check out my new score :

9' 5/6 2 section , almost new cond. this (for me) is getting into a more serious rod, I was able to read many reviews and research it for almost 3 days before winning at 32 bucks :
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Bidding on what should be a perfect reel for it now ,

BFS [fishin]
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#16
You're right, BSF. The word "flyfishing" or "flytying" is like the word "microwavable." Slap it on something and you can charge more for it.

However, there is a difference between true head cement and other similar lacquers. Head cement is a little thinner, so that it penetrates. The idea isn't so much that the thread or other material be coated with it, but that it gets absorbed into the material as well, and fully binds it.

Head cement is also designed to be very quick drying. There is literally no wait time between applying it and going on to the next step.

Virtually any clear (or colored, for that matter) nail polish can serve as head cement. But if you use it straight out of the bottom you'll be coating the material. Instead, using the proper thinner (usually sold as that brand's remover) thin it down slightly.

Regular nail polish is great for finishing a fly, as you get a smooth, hard, shiny finish. It's especially useful if you color-code your flies for any reason.

Brook
http://www.the-outdoor-sports-advisor.com
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#17
That's what I figured, I have a nice old Model A vice and a bunch of goodies on the way I scored for the cheap on fleabay, plus literally hundreds of flies,

I would win a lot of 100 asst. for .89 cents lol, 3 dollar ship but that's still like 15 cents a fly lol so will have many to experiment with, wont freak if ruined or lost. I won several more at the price for a dozen of flies that look real close to bugs here too.

The only difference between nail polish and model paint I am aware of is nail polish is higher flash enamel, can get model paints in laquers, which I use to undetectably fix chips in my guitars and other stuff, You cant "color sand" enamel like laquer to blend a repair.

I was formally trained auto bady man and painter 30 years ago . Old school, lead fill work and the like, never got too practiced at the paint the whole car at once trick (never got in the practice) was always much cheaper to send to get shot at a booth somewhere else (where that's all they do), but excelled at the spot painting and match etc, so learned much about coatings.

and raised on boat, more coatings, lots of stinky stuff lol.

would have to thin laquer (think thats what fly cement is) or mix a catalyst with a nail polish to cause a high flash. easy to find out, product must be broken down anymore and info made available if anything in it could be potentially harmfull or exacerbate allergies,

Me is going to market talcum powder as "Guitar neck "Ultra Speed, hand powder" or something lol , thanks Brook

BFS [fishin]
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#18
BFS,

I can be kind of lazy at times..and find it easier to pick up items that are made for a specific thing instead of buying something and having to modify.. soooo with that in mind check out this basspro link..

[url "http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchResults?searchOption=products&hvarSearchString=fly+head+cement&storeId=10151&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&CMID=TOP_SEARCH_GO"]Head Cement[/url]

..this stuff is only a couple of bucks, lasts a long time...and no fuss or muss with mixing and thinning etc.. I bought the applicator bottle and it works like a charm..

MacFly [cool]
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#19
[center][font "Garamond"][#008000][size 4][Image: happy.gif]Likewise on all accounts.[/size][/#008000][/font]
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#20
Thanks, bookmarked em, good deal. just need to see what all comes with they tying vice

BFS [fishin]
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