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So I took my new ODC Sport 'toon out a couple weeks ago (the first time I have ever been out on the water), and found out that 'toon did not like how much I weigh. The stock seat (the cloth one that is pinned to the frame) was dragging in the water and my rear end got quite cold. [frown] Thank goodness I was wearing my fly fishing waiters.
Because of that, I went and bought a 7" riser and a nice comfy plastic seat last week. Took this set up out this last weekend and realized I now do not have sufficient clearance to use the ores. It was very hard to row effectively. [mad]
So, now that I have dropped so much $ this winter on this 'toon and the accessories, I would like to try and build my own electric trolling motor.
Does anyone here have any good specs for building your own electric motor, or could you point me to do-it-yourself sites that can facilitate me? I wouldn't think it would be too difficult, but any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Knotthead
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Can't help much on the build your own motor, but can your boat handle the weight of the battery?
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Well, I weigh 240lbs
I wouldn't think a 12 volt battery and trolling motor would put me over the weight limit.
I have been looking at Cabela's and see 12v trollers going for $110. It might me easier to buy a new one, though I hate to keep trowing money at my 'toon.
Thoughts?
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I am not sure what battery you are looking at, but for a motor you need a DEEP CYCLE marine battery (because they can take the recharging)
So as far as a battery, you will be looking at $50. to $200. (depending on battery) and weight 40+ to 60+.
You will also want the best battery if you are going to be relying on the motor.
I am betting, motor and battery, you will be adding at least 70 lbs
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how is it a toon rated at 325lb cant handle a 240lb man plus the motor and battery.. doesnt make sense to me??
MacFly
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Well, 325 minus 240 = 85lbs to play with. Now with gear, motor, battery.
I know my battery weighs around 55 to 60 lbs and the motor probably 20.
I am going off the fact he said he was sitting in the water, so I am assuming it is also the design of the boat.
I know the old Leigh Pontoons had you sitting way down between the toons.
Putting a battery and a motor on it really dropped the seat.
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Im not disagreeing with you sis.. but from what I see in the pic off this [url "http://www.outdoorsporting.com/family/10559/display.html"]LINK[/url].. the seat seems to sit high.. and rated at 375 lbs.. I would think a 240lb person.. without the trolling setup should not have the butt in water syndrome.. especially on 16" toons.. [  ]
MacFly [cool]
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Okay, I looked...must be the cloth seat.
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as I said.. not disagreeing.. just dont make no sense to me.. but then again I dont have the experience on a toon so I really have no idea how they would ride.. [ ]
MacFly [cool]
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I am betting because of the kick-ups (rockers). The flat part of the toon is small, could be maybe 4', then you have very large rockers, so the top of the tube is around 8'.
The boat can support that weight but it will be half submerged to do it.
Does that make sense? Some think you need that to ride better on choppy water or rivers, but I see it as a capacity loss.
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Hi. This is sort of a blind shot with general info since I don't know the ODC Sport- but length and rocker of pontoons will be big factors. Generally putting a riser raises the center of gravity, which makes it more likely for a capsize. You can compensate by widening the frame. May not be a concern if you fish very protected water where you never have waves to deal with.
Buying a troll motor and battery is much cheaper than building your own. To save money, go small used motor with NON-Electronic speed control which will last forever so long as its never been submerged. You can use a sealed battery from a large capacity UPS computer backup and put it back for recharge over a week or so. This works IF you keep your speed down and don't have to go very far. Even a $20 garden tractor battery from Sams Club with a trickle charger will work. Works OK if you only go out a few times per year. Working out a mount may be more of an issue than the motor/battery if you don't already have a mount on the pontoon due to balance and weight capacity issues.
That said, I have built several troll motors of my own design because I spend a lot of time with a pontoon on the water. Many thousands of hours and dollars over 15 years have given me something that works exceptionally well for my arrangement and the kind of fishing I do. But, at least this has been the merging of 2 hobbies that I really enjoy. Many of the parts are no longer available and others have to be laboriously handmade with a careful eye for fitting to close tolerances and a sense for how the whole thing will work with a particular mount. Even with specific directions on how one was built, it might take a year to bring the whole thing together and adjust for a particular pontoon or different type of fishing. Thus the cost for a homemade motor would be much higher than adapting what is already out there....
Hope this helps.
Pon
[quote Knotthead]So I took my new ODC Sport 'toon out a couple weeks ago (the first time I have ever been out on the water), and found out that 'toon did not like how much I weigh. The stock seat (the cloth one that is pinned to the frame) was dragging in the water and my rear end got quite cold. [frown] Thank goodness I was wearing my fly fishing waiters.
Because of that, I went and bought a 7" riser and a nice comfy plastic seat last week. Took this set up out this last weekend and realized I now do not have sufficient clearance to use the ores. It was very hard to row effectively. [mad]
So, now that I have dropped so much $ this winter on this 'toon and the accessories, I would like to try and build my own electric trolling motor.
Does anyone here have any good specs for building your own electric motor, or could you point me to do-it-yourself sites that can facilitate me? I wouldn't think it would be too difficult, but any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Knotthead[/quote]
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Pon, thanks for the reply. That is some really good info, and I will look into buying a motor. Maybe like you, I can eventually start tinkering on a build of my own. [cool]
Flygoddess and MacFly,
Thank you for your discussion. Maybe we have stumbled onto another problem. Let me further clarify.
The only two times I have taken my 'toon out I made sure to fully inflate the pontoons so they were firm to the touch. As I get out on the water, my weight seems to sink the pontoon in the middle, to where it looks like the pontoons themselves are being folded in half. The water level is easily a good half way up the pontoon. Because of that, the base where the seat is attached is now submerged underwater, and that makes my rear end be in the water.
Could this be a design flaw, or maybe I am still not inflating my pontoons enough? Maybe I should go pick up a PSI gauge, what should the PSI be at?
Maybe it’s just me being a scared newbie on my new ‘toon, but I don’t like sitting in the water. It makes me feel like I am sinking.
Thanks for the help,
Knotthead
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[quote Knotthead]Pon, thanks for the reply. That is some really good info, and I will look into buying a motor. Maybe like you, I can eventually start tinkering on a build of my own. [cool]
Flygoddess and MacFly,
Thank you for your discussion. Maybe we have stumbled onto another problem. Let me further clarify.
The only two times I have taken my 'toon out I made sure to fully inflate the pontoons so they were firm to the touch. As I get out on the water, my weight seems to sink the pontoon in the middle, to where it looks like the pontoons themselves are being folded in half. This should not be happening! The water level is easily a good half way up the pontoon. Because of that, the base where the seat is attached is now submerged underwater, and that makes my rear end be in the water. Yes, I can see that happening with the folding.
Could this be a design flaw, or maybe I am still not inflating my pontoons enough? Probably not enough inflation, but be careful if you can't return/exchange. One of the original pontoons on my ODC 616 blew out when I tried to make it firmer. The inner inflation chamber was made of the common raft material you see in inflatable toys and had a weak spot due to thinner, non-uniform area. Also make sure that the straps that fasten the pontoon to the frame are very tight with a slight indentation into the tube at firm inflation. Do not allow to sit in the sun OUT of the water, when fully inflated, as this will overpressure and cause a blowout. Maybe I should go pick up a PSI gauge, what should the PSI be at? The PSI guage for my ODC has to be a very special and expensive design that measures backpressure, because of the flap valve which stops the loss of air when inflating. For a nylon type outer shell on the ODC I wouldn't go over 2 lbs maximum, but check the stitched seams for strains to see if that is too much.
Maybe it’s just me being a scared newbie on my new ‘toon, but I don’t like sitting in the water. It makes me feel like I am sinking. I know what you mean, I don't like this either. Some manufacturers state the weight capacity to include the upward displacement force provided by your butt being in the water. Being in the water also makes the whole thing more stable with less weight and stress on the frame, so they can get by with thinner tubing and less critical welding. So your pontoon capacity, stability and safety may be insufficient if you have added a riser.
Hope this helps.
Pon
be
Thanks for the help,
Knotthead[/quote]
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not sure so much a discussion as a side observation by me clarified by FG.. :-)
I am certainly not an expert here but that folding in the middle is not right in any way shape or form.. but tbh not sure how to correct..
I see pon has already answered but hopefully a few of our experienced tooners will pipe in soon..
MacFly
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Sorry, but I am going to say it is a POOR design all together. I have seen them on lakes and as you say, the ends fold up. I have to think that is cause that is where all the air is with those enormous rockers.
I don't know what you paid for it, but I would seriously consider an upgrade in the future.
One more thing. You will need to slide the frame as far forward on the pontoons as you can to compensate for a battery and motor. and you will want the battery as close as you can to the back of your chair or the center of the boat.
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Thanks Flygoddess for the advice on moving the frame forward with a motor. I would have never thought of that.
Live and learn I guess. Since it's my first ever pontoon I'll have more knowledge the next time I buy.
Knotthead
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This could be the ticket...http://www.fishwest.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=BW06FP1000BK
It sits behind your pontoon and doesn't add any weight to your 'toon.
Hope this helps.
Mary
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That is funny you posted the Flote Power. I HAVE ONE!!!! Seriously! If I can find it in the garage I will be selling it for a good price. I used it allot on my SFC.
You do have to license you tube/toon with any motor.
A heads up on this Flote Power. It has to be in a fair amount of water because of the motor. You see you have to put the motor on first, then the battery. You can have the motor raised as high as you can but you are still going to need a little over a foot of water. I also, sewed velcro on both tubes where they meet. it made it that much more secure.
Sounds like a pain, but if you get a routine down, it isn't that bad. Plus a little sweat is good, specially when the outcome of the motor means less kicking.
They ROCK!!! when that unexpected storm moves in.
Oh one other thing. They might have changed but I doubt it, it is a car tire so different inflation.
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