Diawa baitcaster Strike Force SF150

[mpwallace94]

I just got a Diawa Strike Force baitcaster as a gift. I noramlly fish spin casters, but now that I have a baitcaster, I need some advise on how to cast correctly with this type of reel. I normally use an overhand or semi-side arm cast with my spin cast reels and that works well. The one time I took the bait caster out, I wasn't very successful with distance, accuracy, or backlash issues. I use a light (8 lb) test monofilament line and normally fairly light (1/8 oz. and up) set ups. Any suggestions on how I can get the most out of this new reel??

Thanks in advance!
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[byrumjr]

[size 2][font "Arial"][size 2]Welcome to BFT message board. Casting with a baitcaster is hard to do at first. I had posted this for someone else also, but it’s always good to share info. For fresh water several factors make baitcasting reels more efficient fish-fighting tools. They often have drag systems that are superior to those of spinning reels, especially since the very design of spinning reels tends to introduce line twist during a long fight. With baitcasting reels, an angler can also more easily control the drag during a long, difficult fight. While an angler can apply extra drag to a spinning reel by hand-cupping the spool, this requires shifting the cranking hand from the reel handle up to the spool and back again. The baitcaster only has to move a thumb instantly into position on the revolving spool, without any shifting of the hands. Baitcasting reels are also much lighter than spinning reels with the same line capacity and are thus more comfortable to use for all-day repetitive casting. It is easier to thumb-control the accuracy of the cast and all things being equal (weight of lure, line size, rod length and action, etc.), a good baitcasting reel will actually cast farther in the hands of an experienced angler than a spinning outfit will. I still have lots of blowups with Baitcasters, but hope this help you.

First, Baitcaster reels have mechanisms built into the reel that allow you to control the spool speed and reduce the amount of overruns. But the single most effective spool control method is your thumb! Basically getting the most out of your baitcaster is a matter of thumb education. During the cast you should keep your thumb near the spool. If you think the cast is going too fast or is heading for the trees you can stop it immediately with your thumb. You can also start to feel an overrun happening as the loops of line start to form you can feel them with your thumb and do something about it. And most importantly you can stop the spool spinning as soon as the line hits the water. I have found when casting if I stop the spool with my thumb just before the bait hits the water I have less overruns. As you get better and better at this you can also use your thumb to fine tune the spool during a cast and get your bait or lure right into the correct place.

Most good baitcaster reels have two mechanisms to control the spin rate of the spool. They are usually called something like magnetic or friction cast control and centrifugal brake system. Fancy names but simple to operate. The magnetic cast control is usually a round knob on the same side of the reel as the drag and the handle. This knob is tightened or loosened to retard the spinning of the spool. You can modify this setting while you are fishing. You usually have to change this as the weight of what you are casting changes. A heavier casting weight will make the spool spin much quicker at the beginning of the cast. You need this knob to stop the spool spinning out of control. The lighter the weight the less control you need. If it is too tight you may find the weight in your cast is insufficient to get the spool spinning at all. Some are on the side of the reel. Most are numbers from one thru ten start on ten and work down until you get the right number for the bait you are using. You will know when it gets on the right

Your reel should include the specific instructions for the setting of both these controls.
Here are the basics steps you should use to set the magnetic cast control:

Rig up the rod with the sinkers/hooks or lure you want to cast.

Tighten the magnetic cast control knob all the way up.

Put the reel into free spool, with the rod up suspending the sinker etc.

The line should not be coming out.

Loosen the magnetic cast control knob slowly until the line will start to come out.

Be careful that it does not start to come out so fast that you get another birds nest!

Then tighten back a little way. The line should not move unless you jig the rod up and down. When you do that the sinker etc should move down a little way.

Try casting now. If you still have overruns tighten the cast control knob.

This will give a reasonable setting for the weight you are casting. Once you get your thumb educated you should start backing this off so as not to reduce the distance you can cast.

Another thing to consider is the type of line you use when casting. A stiff line with a lot of memory will increase the number of overruns. Because these lines are not supple they stay looped up as they come off the reel. These can foul up the spool and cause overruns. Also it is much harder to get these overruns out. Probably the best line to use would be one of the braids. These have no memory and will come straight off the spool.

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[davetclown]

number one dont take it fishing.....

at least till you get the casting down.

go down to your tackle shop of find here on line a 1/8 pratice casting plug.

start with slow easy cast. dont even worry about distance or acurecy. I am in about the same boat you are in with bait casters. they take a bit more practice to learn than a spinning reel.

I started praticing with mine this spring and no matter which way I fased or which direction I casted I hit the same 4 foot diamiter tree.

you may have the same problem I am experancing and that is the follow throug and release. In following through I end up exerting way too much force that sends my aim cockeyed and a major over wind of line turning my line in to a rats nest.

I am finding that if I toss lighter and release sooner, around 12 or 11 oclock on the cast in stead of 10 or 9 oclock like on the spin cast reel.

now the rest is pratice pratice pratice of the back poarch till I get it right.

I am also finding that thumbing the spool to be a signifacant aid as well.
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[JapanRon]

Hey there mpwallace94,

Lot's of good advice! Here's more advice that you can apply or not.

I hope you like to cast buzzbaits, spinner bait or plugs because when you actually start fishing with a baitcaster these are comparatively easy to cast. I love the side cast or even the party boat pitch (underhand) toss.

Started using a baitcaster in 1953 with black dacron line (braid) terrible tangles. Recently I've found a line that I can put on almost any baitcaster and have good success in trouble free casting but also in undoing professional overruns.

The line is called Ironsilk. It is not a round line but oval in shape and is very easy to untangle. The oval shape, the fairly stiff core and the very slipery silk-like-surface reduces kinks. When you cast out the line kind of floats out. I use a fluorocarbon leader on the end of this line as the Ironsilk I use is a dark green.

Knot strength is very good BUT the line is a bit brittle, doesn't kink but brittle. Very, Vary abrasion resistant due to co-polymer material and the diameter of the line being bigger for the test rating. (thus I use a fluoro leader)

A little expensive but ...... it rings my chimes.

JapanRon
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