fall steelhead , "how to "

[lonehunter]

[#0000a0][font "Tahoma"][size 2]Steelhead ... What more can be said. It's truly an experience all by itself. During the fall and spring, fresh steelhead on the rod can "dust" even the most experienced fly angler in the first 5 seconds of the fight. From 20 to 200 feet of line in under 10 seconds with three 4 foot high jumps on the way, folks, that is what dreams are made of.[/size][/font] RIVER DRIFT FISHING TECHNIQUES FOR STEELHEAD, SALMON & TROUT[/#0000a0]




Adult Male Steelhead.




Adult Female Steelhead.

[#009900]Identification Characteristics:[/#009900] [ul] [li]Head blunt, jaw short - does not extend past the eye [li]Distinct dark spots on dorsal fin [li]Square-shaped tail fin with radiating pattern of spots [li]Often has reddish stripe along sides, gill cover reddish [li]Length up to 45 inches [/li][/ul]







[#009900]Spawn Timing:[/#009900] [ul] [li]Late March through early June [/li][/ul]

Drift fishing is easy, fun and effective. The technique has gained popularity over the years as more and more streams across the country are supporting trout, steelhead and salmon runs. Whether a beginner or a more experienced angler, this can help you become even more successful using this method of fishing. Typical drift fishing waters consist of a series of pools and rapids, with the pools (drifts) holding feeding, resting or migrating fish. Drift lures fished through these pool areas, with the drift fishing technique, will often produce excellent results.

The basic drift fishing technique consists of casting across and slightly upstream, and then allowing your drift bobber and accompanying sinker to drift naturally downstream in the current, the sinker gently bouncing along the bottom. When your lure has drifted back near the bank, it is reeled in and another cast and drift made.

There are scores of ways to add weight ahead of a drift bobber. Pencil lead, either solid or hollow core, is the most popular and has proved both economical and easy to use.

Solid pencil lead is best fastened to your line using a Lead Cinch which consists of a three-way swivel and a length of surgical tubing. Your main line is tied to one end of the swivel, leader and bobber to the other end and a section of pencil lead inserted into the Lead Cinch. If the lead becomes snagged, it will pull away from the tubing and your drift bobber and Lead Cinch can be retrieved.

Hollow pencil lead is best fastened by crimping it to a short leader dropped from a barrel swivel as shown in the illustrations. If this lead becomes snagged, a sharp pull will free the lead from the dropper leader and your drift bobber, leader and swivel can be reclaimed.

Pencil lead comes in coils or long sections so you can cut off the desired amount. Most lead available through sport shops comes in diameters of 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4 inch, with 3/16 the most popular size for average fishing conditions and stream flows.

One of the big tricks to successful drift fishing is to select just the right amount of weight for the water you are fishing. A weight that's too heavy will snag easily while one that's too light will not keep your drift bobber near the bottom where the fish are. The ideal weight is one that results in a tap-tap-skip action as it makes regular contact with the bottom and then rises a bit before hitting again. Experienced drift anglers usually begin working an unknown drift with a 2 1/2 to 3 inch piece of pencil lead and then, after making a drift or two, shorten it until the drift feels just right with that tap-tap-skip action.

LEAD TIP: Your pencil lead should always hang straight, as a bent or crooked piece of lead will often result in twisting or tangling of your line.

With the lead rigged, you now are ready to add a drift bobber to your hook and leader. Depending on the particular rivers you fish, you will want main line testing anywhere from 8 to 20 pounds. Leader lengths should be from 18 to 24 inches, with the longer leaders selected for low or clear water drifting and the shorter lengths for average water conditions.

BOBBER TIP: bobbers will fish better if a small, round bead is added between the bobber and the hook. The bead acts as a tiny ball bearing and allows the bobber to spin more freely, giving it improved action. A bead will also keep your hook straight out behind the bobber, allowing better fish-hooking capability.

Successful drift fishing requires that your line be close to the bottom. Hence it is important to use a heavier line than you would ordinarily select for lake fishing as it will have to take the added bottom-scraping abrasion that comes with drifting. We recommend that you use a premium quality, monofilament line.

There are three instinctive reasons a fish bites a drift bobber: It's either hungry, protecting its territory or curious. Although strikes can be hard, they're often almost imperceptible. Some fish will only lightly mouth a bobber and this kind of "take" is very difficult to discern from the lure's ordinary bottom tapping. Many fish are lost or not hooked simply because the angler just can't detect these soft pickups. There are, however, two things you can do which will help you nab these light-biters: Use super-sharp hooks and add some yarn below your bobber.

Sharp hooks are critical no matter what kind of fishing you do, but they become even more important when trying to hook light-biting fish while drift fishing. A fish will have a great deal of difficulty getting a sticky-sharp hook out if its mouth without it catching somewhere. Once a sharp point catches, every move the fish makes to expel it will only drive it deeper and you will feel a harder "take" as the fish attempts to throw it.

Yarn is your second edge for hooking light-biters. The addition of a tuft of colorful yarn just ahead of your hook and below the drift bobber will add color contrast to your lure, plus make it very difficult for a fish to spit out the hook. Once taken, the yarn can become tangled in the fish's teeth and every effort to get rid of the lure will send another signal to you to set the hook. NOTE: when using yarn, always make sure it's not so long that it covers or interferes with the hook point.

Any momentary slowing or stopping of a drifted lure, slack line or a tap that shouldn't be there should be answered by setting the hook HARD. In drift fishing, if you're in doubt, always set the hook!
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[lonehunter]

RIGGING FOR DRIFT FISHING IN RIVERS
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It is very simple to rig a bobber for drift fishing; Based on the river you are fishing, the type of fish you are after and how much water flow the river has, you will want to use a quality mono-filament main line of 8 to 15 or even 20 pound test. The main line should be tied to a barrel swivel and at the other end of the swivel add a leader of 12 to 48 inches. The leader should also be of a quality mono-filament and can be a lighter pound test than the main line. The drift bobber is strung on the leader ahead of the hook before the leader is tied to the barrel swivel. [center]It is important that the rig float naturally as it drifts downstream. The right sized drift bobber will help do this. A bobber that is too big will float the hook and bait too high over the fish. A bobber that is too small will not float the hook and bait high enough resulting in snags and hang-ups. The object is to rig the correct size drift bobber to create a "neutral bouyancy" situation, where it floats naturally, just up off the bottom of the river as it drifts. Leader length and size of drift bobber is normally determined by water condition, size of the hook and size of the bait. In water that is high and milky or off- colored, a shorter leader of 12 to 24 inches is all that is required. In low, clear water a longer leader of 24 to 48 inches is recommended and a smaller drift bobber is normally all that is needed.
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WHERE TO CAST
Good holding water for steelhead or salmon, known as a drift, is water that is usually above or below some rapids or swift water. The fish like to hold in this water and rest before continuing their journey upstream. This holding water is generally 4 to 10 or 12 feet deep. [center]When you first cast into a drift work the closest water first and then cast progressively farther out. This may require you to go from a lighter weight to a heavier weight as you go from shallower, slower water to deeper, swifter water.
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CHOOSING THE RIGHT WEIGHT
When drift fishing with a Lil' Corky, Spin-N-Glo, Wobble Glo or Winners in rivers for salmon or steelhead it is extremely important that you use the right amount of weight. The proper weight makes it possible to cast where you need to and it is vital in keeping your rig down near the bottom where the fish are holding.

There are a variety of different kinds of weights that are available to use but the most popular has to be pencil lead. Pencil lead comes in both solid and hollow core. Both are fairly inexpensive and they are easy to use.

Solid pencil lead is best rigged with a piece of latex surgical tubing (see drift fishing rigs on the back) which can be attached to the line in several different ways.

Hollow core lead can be crimped directly to a dropper line, also shown on the back.

Both methods allow the lead weights to pull off easily if they get hung up on the bottom while drifting, allowing you to save your leader, hook, bobber and bait. And, both the lead weights can be cut to various lengths giving you just the right amount of weight for different water conditions.

Another popular drifting weight is a piece of parachute cord with BB-shot inside. These "Slinky" drift weights, as they are known, can be purchased, ready-to-fish from the tackle shops or they can be made at home. They can be made or purchased in various lengths and weights to match the fishing conditions.

Many fishermen have found that these parachute cord weights get hung up less and they give a better feel of the bottom making it easier to detect a bite.

No matter what type of weight you prefer it is important to use the right amount. It is extremely important to keep a straight line from the rod tip to the water and weight so that even the lightest bites can be detected. The proper weight will help do this. [center]Too much weight and you constantly will be hanging up on the bottom of the river. Too little weight and your outfit will be floating over the fish. The right amount of weight will give you a good drift with a continual tap, tap, tap of the bottom as the weight, drift bobber and bait moves along.
[/center] [center]KEEP THOSE HOOKS SHARP
One thing that every guide and experienced fisherman will tell you is the secret to success is to have a sharp hook. Especially when drift fishing, a hook rubs against rocks, snags and other bottom debris and can become dull in just a matter of minutes. To get a good, deep hook set, a hook should be checked for sharpness and touched up with a hook file or sharpening stone every few minutes.[/url][/center]steelies prefer traveling in the shallower, faster water. They also have a habit of swimming very close to shore, often in just a few feet of water. Anglers should remember that this makes the slots and seams between the faster and slower water a perfect spot to fish. Sockeye also favor gravel bars with swift flows and long, gradual slopes to the channel. the only thing required on your part is the exploring. A key point to remember about steelies is that they are "not" bottom huggers. In fact, experiments have shown that steelies tend to lift off the bottom when swimming over gravel bars and will generally hold slightly below the midpoint depth range. Time and again I've heard it said that drift fishermen are simply snaging. While no doubt some are snaged, our fishing has shown us that "if the color of the fly is right" and the length of the leader presents the offering in the fish's traveling zone, they will most definitely bite.

The yarn-fly is lure of choice for drift fishing . When the water is murky from rains or late freshet conditions, anglers will, as a rule, want to stick with dark green (Lime) colored wool. Under normal water conditions, a blend or combination of chartreuse, dark green, light green and bubble-gum pink should be used. For a little added attraction, some drift fishers will add a small chartreuse or green bead directly in front of the fly. Most drift fishers prefer using the bait-loop knot when tying their yarn-flys to six-foot leaders. Yarn-flys should also be kept trimmed. The easiest method is to make a cast and get the fly wet, pull it in and neatly trim it using your thumb nail as a size guide.

Good quality, chemically sharpened 2-0 or 3-0 hooks with names like Gamakatsu, VMC and Eagle Claw are the ones to use and should be found in all tackle boxes. Skittlebug flys with small rubber legs in the above-mentioned colors also work well for fish
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[lonehunter]

Bait casting outfits with level wind reels are the favored choices of most anglers, while spinning outfits will also work well. Whichever type of reel you choose, it must balance your rod, have a good smooth drag, and hold ample amounts of line (up to 200 yds.). In selecting a rod, look for a rod that is 9 1/2 to 12 feet in length with a long handle of up to 24 inches. Monofilament line should generally have a breaking strength of 8 to 17 pounds depending on the species and size of fish targeted. "Drift rigs" is the term used to describe how corkies and other similar lures are attached to the main line. Generally, a drift rig consists of a barrel, three-way, or snap swivel, pencil lead sinker (or ball weight), surgical tubing, leader, yarn, lure/bait, and the hook. There are a great many ways to combine these elements according to personal preference, although the results remain consistent Some of the more common types of drift rigs are the "snap swivel rig" (shown here), "mainliner rig", "mainliner plus rig", "pinch sinker rig, and the "sliding sinker rig". The "snap swivel rig" is the personal preference of a lot of river anglers in BC. Here the main line is attached to the upper portion of a snap swivel, while the leader portion is tied to the lower portion of the rig (as shown on the right), allowing for surgical tubing and pencil lead sinker to be affixed to the snap swivel.While being perhaps less responsive than a sliding sinker rig, the "snap swivel rig" has a definite advantage over most rigs in that there is less tendency for the rig to snag bottom, based on a "Y" being formed at the snap swivel. While occasional hang-ups will occur, many times the rig will free itself with the pencil lead dislodging itself from the surgical tubing. By simply adding a new section of pencil lead, your line can then be back in the water quickly following hang-ups.In a "mainline rig", surgical tubing is run up the line from the hook to the desired leader length (about 14 to 20 inches), where a chunk of pencil lead is forced into the surgical tubing about a 1/4 inch. The tubing, once attached to the pencil lead can then be moved up or down the main line to increase or decrease the leader length.Divantages to this type of rig is that the pencil lead has a tendency to chaff the line, causing a weakness in the main line; and secondly, the sinker has a tendency to slide down the rig rendering the whole set-up ineffective. Another divantage is that during hang-ups, anglers often loose the entire rig as well as a good portion of their line. The advantage to this type of rig is the relative ease to which it is tied.A variation of the "mainline rig" is the "mainliner plus" rig. Here, a barrel swivel is added to the main line which separates the leader from the main line. The surgical tubing is then added in the same manner as with the "mainline rig", but is instead, positioned above the swivel. This type of rig eliminates the tendency for the sinker to slide down the rig; and furthermore, chaffing of the line can be avoided by inserting the pencil lead sinker at the barrel swivel, with the swivel acting as a buffer.Another popular rig is the "pinch sinker rig". A swivel is attached to the main line, separating the main line from the leader. The leader in this case, as in most, should be constructed from monofilament line that is about two pounds less than the main line rated strength. From the swivel a small tag (chunk of monofilament) is tied in, whereby a series of split shot lead, hollow core lead, or eyed pencil lead can be affixed. The advantage to this type of rig is that hang-ups will usually produce most of your rig (generally from the swivel up), while a divantage is that the increased sinker length (because of the tag) produces a greater number of hang-ups.The last type of drift rig discussed here is the "sliding sinker" rig. A swivel is attached to the main line, separating the main line from the leader. Above the swivel, and egg sinker, bouncing ball sinker, or pencil lead sinker is attached. When attaching a pencil lead sinker, a snap swivel is incorporated so that surgical tubing and pencil lead can be attached in much the same manner as with the "snap swivel rig", the difference being that the line is run through the swivel allowing for free movement of the sinker. The greatest advantage to this type of rig is the ability to detect strikes. A divantage to this type of rig is the tendency towards line abrasion from constant sliding of the sinker, although some of this can be alleviated with the addition of a plastic bead above the swivel which acts as a bumper.There are a number of fishing tactics that will serve to increase an angler success rate when fishing corkies, or any other drift rig for that matter. Perhaps the greatest of these is keeping hooks sticky sharp, and a keen sense of being able to detect subtle strikes, the latter of which comes naturally from experience. Beyond the most basic requirements, skill in reading the water to determine the lie of the fish is a definite advantage, as is the ability to present your rig properly to these fish. One factor is relatively constant when reading the water for salmon or steelhead, and that is 9 times out of 10, the fish will be holding on the bottom. Is is important to read the water beforehand, preferably from a high vantage point, using polarized sunglasses to eliminate the water's surface glare. Water levels and clarity will affect where fish will position themselves. Fish will seek surroundings that provide security, comfort, and at times, good oxygen flow. In low, clear water conditions salmon and steelhead will hold in deep pools or slots, with steelhead having a tendency to prefer slightly faster water than salmon. When reading the water, try to gauge water depth, current speed, flow patterns, and look for submerged structures (boulders, logs, depressions, etc) behind which fish will hold. Steelhead and salmon take advantage of submerged structures for protection and relief from the current, making them a preferred target for an angler's drifts.

[font "Arial"][size 2]Bank fisherman should pay special attention to not "line the fish". This is a common practice among novice anglers, who when casting, tend to cast too far (often well past the holding fish) causing the fish to become spooked. A typical approach should be to work from the head of the run or pool, fishing the nearest water first, progressing each cast to the far side of the river, before working your way downstream in the same manner.[/size][/font]
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[lonehunter]

[font "Tahoma"][size 2]Rod - 8 to 17 foot medium or light action Float Rod

Reel - Centerpin - see photo

Line - Typical monofilament or fluorocarbon is used as mainline (8-12 pound test) with a leader section of 4-8 pound test.

Baits and lures - Egg Sacs and egg imitations, small jigs, wooly buggers and various bunny flies, maggots, worms, etc...

Presentation type - Float Fishing

Comments -

Centerpin fishing is another new technique that has been adapted over to steelhead fishing. A centerpin reel is often with a fly reel, but is far from it. A centerpin is a DRAG - FREE reel used for drifting baits. A cast is made by casting the rod forward and at the same time, taking line "off the side" of the spool - similar to a spinning reel on its side. Once the cast is made, the line is tightened and the pull of the line/ float pulls more line off the spool. The result is a free flowing drift down the current. The length of the rod only adds to the "perfect" drift.

The following write-up is courtesy of "DR" - a Canadian Fishing Expert, CEO Intense Fishing Technologies- [/size][/font][url "http://www.getfishnow.com/"][font "Tahoma"][#0000ff][size 2]www.getfishnow.com[/size][/#0000ff][/font][/url][font "Tahoma"][size 2] , and avid centerpin angler.

To set and rig the float trim 3 pieces of the tubing off about 1/4 inch or less, put them through your main line. Now lick the top and bottom portions of the float, this just allows it to slid through the tubing easier. (tubing can be purchased a any hobby store, it's basically gas line for model gas airplanes) There should be two pieces on the bottom portion of the float and one on the top portion. If one splits you still have two so as not to have to re-rig.

Now you are ready for weight. Depending on the size of water, will determine the size of your float which will intern decide the amount of weight.

For this exercise lets start with 3.5 to 4 inch float (simply measure the length of the balsa portion of the float not the stick to determine this). Place enough split shot (lets say your fishing a 6 foot hole) place enough under the float (or one large one) if you place a number be sure to stack them closely together to reduce resistance in the water.

The amount of weight under the float should be able to "cock" the float right up right away!!!!!!! Now go down about 3.5 feet to space your next smaller weight and so on spacing them about 3 inches apart, with the larger float you can use a bit more weight if necessary. I would suggest about 4-5 bb's, more in higher water and faster conditions. This technique is called the "Stacking" your weight and basically allows the line to run with the current naturally. Now tie on your tippet, you can use a small barrel swivel the smaller the better, I personally don't use them. I use a three loop surgeons knot and trim the tag ends very close. I would use no more than 18-24 inches.

Do not put weight on your tippet!!!!!!!!!! If you get snagged you only lose your tippet and not your entire rig. Always use tippet!!!! Its a finer quality and diameter line, if you can't find any, go out and buy some decent fluorocarbon, that will suffice.

Always wet your fingers then the line above your float before moving the float up and down the line to eliminate burring of your line. You find that your "REFINEMENT" of the rig to be your own preference ie: weight vs float vs water conditions. You will find this method to glide so natural you'll wonder where you have been, you will be able to STALL your float behind a rock or possible holding spot simply by lifting your line and guiding the float and rig into position. Always try to keep as much line off the water as possible.

Fishing with flies under the float, small jigs, worms or roe all under these floats will make you cry!! You'll be hard pressed to find a better technique. Please ensure you are using a rod in the 8.5 to 17 foot size along with a reel filled with 8lb or 6lb test and get some quality tippet material, 4, 5.5 and 6lb. I always use 8 main to those tippet sizes mentioned as a snag ensures quick break off and your back into the zone as quickly as possible.[/size][/font]
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[lonehunter]

[font "Tahoma"][#336699][size 3]Fly Fishing for Lake Run Trout and Salmon[/size][/#336699][/font]

[font "Tahoma"][size 2]Rod/ Reel - quality 6 to 8 wt - 8 - 11 foot rod - Action depends on preference. Fast actions have a better butt section for fighting larger fish, moderate or slow actions tend to present the baits alot easier.

Line - Weight Forward lines are most popular. Most streams require a roll or "Spey" cast, the WF allows the line to shoot better under close quarter situations. Need at least 100 yards of backing, full spool of flyline, leaders can range from 4 to 12 feet or even longer. Depending on the fly of choice depends on the strength of the tippet. For example - if using streamers, buggers, or egg sucking leaches 8 to even 14 pound tippet should be used because the hit is that much harder. Whereas, if your drifting nymphs and egg imitations 4 to 8 pound can be used.

Fly Choices - Steelhead will hit a variety of different flies. The most popular are egg imitations, such as estaz eggs and glowbugs. Wooly Buggers and Egg Sucking Leeches are also very popular. During the spring, rainbow and brown trout streamers are very effective. [/size][/font]
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[lonehunter]

[font "Tahoma"][#336699][size 3]Spey Fishing for Lake Run Trout and Salmon[/size][/#336699][/font]

[font "Tahoma"][size 2]Spey Tackle

Rod/ Reel - Traditionally reels are a large arbor 7-10 weight reel. Rod is a two handed flyrod called a spey rod commonly in lengths of 12 to 18 feet and actions in either a traditional or European bend.

Line - Floating Weight Forward Spey lines or Double Taper are most popular. The heavier longer shooting head allows more fly line to be casted and managed with the longer rod. Removable sink tips are available options which often increase the effectiveness of a sub-surface spey presentation.

Fly Choices - Spey fisherman uses a variety of flies in a variety of presentations. Typically most spey fisherman swing flies. Both surface and sub-surface swinging presentations are deadly with a spey. Surface flies such as bombers and royal wolfs are great for rising fall aggressive steelies and classic atlantic and pacific salmon flies are a good starting point for lake run fish. Large wooly buggers, egg sucking leeches, and flesh flies are common across Lake Ontario tributary spey anglers, as well are polar shrimp, comets, and various large hackle bright speys are classic for early chinook & coho salmon. Indicator fishing and nymphing with egg patterns in the fall and winter and with nymphs in the spring is also common amongst alot of Lake Ontario tributary spey anglers.

Spey fishing is a relatively new technique utilized most on larger waters , some benefits of spey tackle is casting length, line control, and manageability of larger bulkier flies. Many spey casters throw and manage 60-80 feet of line easily, and some area experts throw 100 to even 120 feet of flyline fishing areas that one handed fly anglers wouldn't dream of hitting. Contolling alot of water with as minimal amount of work is an easy sell to spey fishing. [/size][/font][font "Tahoma"][size 2]Add artistic movements of the classic spey casts and the deadly presentation because of line control and spey fishing is tough to beat on alot of occassions[/size][/font]
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[lonehunter]

[font "Tahoma"][#336699][size 3]Spinning Tackle for Steelhead[/size][/#336699][/font]

[font "Tahoma"][size 2]For Casting Lures -

Rod - Medium to Light Action - 7 to 10 feet in length

Reel - Quality, Smooth Drag Reel that will hold at least 200 yards of 6-12 pound test

Line - Quality small diameter lines - sometimes fluorocarbon, are preferred. 6-12 pound mainline

Lure Selections - Hot'n'Tots, small spinners, small spoons, Rapalas, Jr. Thundersticks

Comments -

It is imperative to read and remember the Stream Regulations for each region and their seasons. During the typical season, lures are required to only have single hooks - with the current exception of floating lures. When the steelhead are fresh and are eager to bite, lures can be a phenomenal choice for enticing steelhead to bite. A proven technique in currents is to focus on a current break and allow the lure to "Swing" through the strike zone. When a hookup occurs, keep the drag light cause you'll be in for the run of your life...

Drifting Egg Sacs and Baits -

Rod - Light to Ultra-lite action Noodle Rods- 9 to 15 feet in length

Reel - a quality reel that will hold at least 200 yards of 6 -10 pound test

Line - Quality small diameter lines - sometimes fluorocarbon, are preferred. 6-10 pound mainline with a 4 to 6 pound leader.

Hooks - Fine wire egg hooks for drifting eggs. Hook sizes from #8's to #14's depending on the size of the sacs.

Comments -

For those new or interested in steelhead angling, it might be a shock to read that people often use this kind of tackle for occasionally 15 pound fish. Fighting even a 15 pound steelhead on a long ultra-lite noodle rod can be challenging, but far from foolish.

Techniques:

Free drifting - free lining or drifting baits like for any other species of fish is possible. Drag free drifts are very important as well as adding the correct amount of weight on your line. The most important thing to free drifting baits is keeping your line taught but yet not so tight that you inhibit the natural action of the bait. You want the bait to drift down the current naturally. Also, you want just enough weight on your line to contact with the bottom, but not enough to hang up constantly. Finally, keep anywhere from 1 to 2 feet of weightless leader past the shot to give the bait a natural presentation.

Float Fishing - Float fishing is a very common technique for fishing for steelhead. Setting up the float rig and hints for running the float are explained in the Centerpin Section below.

There are many benefits to fishing a noodle rod such as:

Less drag on the water when drifting because the line is much higher off the surface current. Result - better - more free drift

Slower action Rods make sudden fish surges alot less stressful on the line and hook. Result - fewer "quick" releases cause the hook comes out or the line snaps.
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[lonehunter]

exerpts from " streamside " on the fly tying forum . HOOKS .

[#808000]I love the Eagle Claw Hooks, especially the new nickel teflon coated hooks. They are so smooth, sharp and slippery, that you have a hard time fixing them to your line with out ending up with a hook in your finger and the points are so sharp they will cut you like a surgeon's scalpel. Eagle Claw has definitely taken hook manufacturing to a whole new level. They are hard to sharpen though. Most of the more expensive hooks today are very hard tempered steel and are chemically or lazer sharpened, and are surgically sharp from the factory, but this does not last long once they start bouncing off rocks and things. Eagle Claw hooks are harder than most, but they too need constant sharpening if you are fishing rocky bottoms. In the words of my friend Ian James a renown Canadian fly fisherman and author" Dull hooks don't catch fish! Get the point?"[/#808000][size 2]

[/size][#808000][size 3][size 2]A hone or wet stone will just round them off. What you need is a diamond dust sharpening rod. The kind with a hook grove. They cost about $10.00 Gerber makes a great one shaped like a pen that clips to your pocket. They are the best hook sharpener on the market. You will have no problem sharpening Eagle Claw or any other brand of hook. Always sharpen by stroking the sharpener away toward the point of the hook, never drawing the hook against the sharpener. One or two strokes is usually enough to re-sharpen any hook, unless the point is bent. If it's bent just through it out. It's not worth messin with and it could cost you a fish.[/size][/size][size 1] [/size]




[#808000][size 3]If you are spawn bagging for steelies, you are best to snell your hooks. Go back to that page I sent you to with the Uni- Knot. There is a Uni-Snell at the bottom of the page, use that, it's a very good knot. You will get much better more direct hook sets if you snell your steelhead hooks for bagging. Circle hooks are a great invention and can be used for bagging. Because they are turned so far in, that the points do not come in contact with obsticles and do not snag, therefor they stay sharp almost all the time, but you cannot snell them because in order for the design to work, the hook must be able to turn and work it's way to the corner inside a fishes mouth. You also cannot set the hook or you will just pull it right back out of the fishes mouth. Even if they swallow the hook right down their gullet, you will just pull it right back out. You have to let the fish make the set. Once you get used to that circle hooks are fantastic for spawn bagging steelies.

For small jacks and resident rainbows and browns, I also like to use egg hooks size # 6 to # 8, Preferably Eagle Claw NT or Lindy Blood Red. Lindy also makes a snagless egg hook, for those structured hard to fish areas like at that dam you spoke of with all the cinder blocks and snag lines. For larger hens, I like to use the larger Eagle Claw NT egg cluster hooks size # 2[/size][/#808000][/#808000][size 1] . [/size]
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[lonehunter]

EXERPTS FROM STREAMSIDE , FLY TYING FORUM ,

FLYFISH WITH SPAWN



[#808000]You can also fly fish With spawn bags for steelhead, and it is a blast! That is how I do most of my spawn bagging. Use a short stiff heavy leader 1x or 2x a single pea shot about 8" from your spawn sac. They are heavy and quite awkward to cast. If you start flinging them through the air, they will just pull apart from the enertia. The best way to cast them is to raise your rod tip drawing the bag to the surface and using a one haul roll cast. To do this, grab your line with your stripping hand and draw as much line as you can. Execute a normal roll cast and release your slack while your bait is in flight. Give it a try. Practice a little and you'll get the hang of it. [/#808000]
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[lonehunter]

[#808000]I use a 9ft #7wt Penn Gold medal fly rod with a matching Penn 1.5 salt water fly reel for all my steelheading.

[size 3]For leaders I use a 2x 8lb Fenwick Profile [/size][size 3]leader. [/size][/#808000][size 1]

[/size][#808000][size 3]Although it is a completely different setup than you, I am still only using 8lb test at the fly and I have no trouble landing large steelhead. I have even landed large 20 to 30lb chinooks using this setup. Usually the only time I lose a fish is if he makes it to cover or cuts me off on some object underwater. So I would have to ask you some questions. Where is your line breaking? Is it breaking at the fly, is it your knot? What type of knot are you using? Or is the fish snapping you off on sharp rocks or other underwater debris? If the fish is actually snapping your line, this might sound silly, but your drag might be set too tight. If you have the room and there is not a lot of debris or cover for him to head for, just loosen your drag and let him run. Steelies will usually make 5 or 6 good runs. The best way to tier him is not to keep him on a short leash with a tight drag. He will tier much more quickly the more you let him run and burn off his energy. If there is a lot of cover and debris in the area you will have to go up to a heavier lb test. That is all I can suggest right now without knowing all the rest of the facts.[/size][/#808000][size 1] [/size]
[#808000]Fluorocarbon is an excelent choice for whenever a more abrasion resistant line is needed or at times when fish are being tippet shy. On a recent trip steelheading and salmon fishing I was given some samples of that new Frogs Hair fluorocarbon to put to the test. I tried their Stiff butt tapered leaders [/#808000][size 1]

[/size][#808000][size 3]and their new fluorocarbon tippet material [/size][/#808000]

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[/size][#808000][size 3]I absolutely loved it. It was extremely abrasion resistant, had very little stretch and turned over very well. I have been considering going to it exclusively if I can get it at wholesale.[/size][/#808000]

[#808000]The knot I would use would be the Uni-knot. It it the best holding knot I know of and it is quite easy to tie. I use it about 90% of the time for all fishing situations. I will try and find an illistration of it and post it on the board for you. For your lead line, you might want to try some of the new high breed flurocarbon lines some companies have just started putting out. I will also try to find you some information on those as well.[/#808000]
[#808000]Your problem sounds like it is mostly abrasion. Those dam cinder blocks and gabian stone are just like a file on your line. I would forget about mono and definately go with the fluorocarbon. Another thing you might want to try is a baitcast reel with a braided line like spiderwire and a fluorocarbon leader.

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[size 3]Do yourself a favor and start practicing the Uni-knot now before you get out on the water. I know it looks simple but there is a bit of a technique to it. The trick is make sure you make your loop big enough to work with and pinch the line between thumb and forefinger where the bites intersect. The thing I like most about the Uni-Knot is that it is so versatile. I love the fact that you can fish it with an open loop. It gives your nymphs a much more natural action than if your tippet is sinched up tight to the eye of the hook. It can also be used to snell a steelhead hook. In fact, it's the best snell there is. Once you start using the Uni- Knot, the Clinch and improved Clinch will soon be only a memory.[/size][/#808000][size 1] [/size]
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[lonehunter]

[font "Tahoma"][#336699][size 3]Playing, Landing, and Releasing Steelhead[/size][/#336699][/font]

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As most people know, catch and release of steelhead is a very important practice to ensure some fish around for years to come. Even though this process sounds very simple there are a few things a person can learn to better help the fish and the fisherman. Playing and landing of the fish also has a direct influence on how the fish is to be released. Learning the proper ways is vital to a healthy fish being returned to the water to fight another day.

Playing Steelhead:

One the initial hook up I tend to let the reels drag do the work. One important thing is to keep the line tight (but not to tight) and a good bend in the rod. If you flatten the rod out and point it directly at the fish all the pressure is placed on the delicate tippet and SNAP!!! the fish is gone. In my mind, a steelhead fights out of panic, going crazy for short periods of time then settling down. When the fish settles down I feel that if the fish is not pulling you, you should be pulling him. I try to keep myself just slightly down stream of the fish. If he takes a monstrous run down stream and you cant pursue, sometimes letting the line go completely slack can turn the fish around. Now, when the fish has settled down its time to start with the side pressure. I do this by placing my rod parallel to the ground on the down stream-side of the fish. Make sure to keep a good bend in the rod. Now, just start pumping and reeling like you normally would, just keep that rod bent and parallel to the ground. Why bother with this technique??? 3 reasons. Reason 1. In mid-fight you are moving from defense to offense. You are no longer trying to lift the fish. You are turning him and knocking the fish of balance. This technique cuts the fight time by more than half. Reason 2. This will force the fish to fight hard during the entire battle. The good thing here is that the fish will fight you for a shorter duration but more violently. 3rd and best reason is that hopefully the steelhead you catch will be released healthy. By expending the fish's energy quickly studies have shown that the fish's recovery time is shorter and complete. If the fight is prolonged more than necessary the lactic acid build up inside the fish could kill it. Sometimes not until hours after the fight. Now, your late in the fight and your steelhead is entering the shallows near shore. One more trick the fish pulls can get you. When the fish enters the shallow water and feels it's belly touching bottom it realizes it's in serious trouble and gathers all its strength and bolts away towards deeper water. This has broken a many a tippets and pulled many a hooks. At this point keep the rod tip high to keep the possibly badly frayed tippet out of the rocks. Some big'ol bucks can play this game for several minutes so be patient.

Landing Fish:

When on my own which is nearly 100% of the time, I like to tail the fish utilizing a wool glove. Yes, I know that strips its protective slime off but I think it's better. A wool glove enables me to not have to squeeze the fish to hard, and I don’t have to worry about dropping the fish on the rocks and sand when he decides to start flopping around. I try to keep the fish out of the water as short of time as possible. Use hemostats to take the fly out and quickly get the fish back into the water. If you have a buddy just use the above information but have him tail the fish. Just make sure he or she is good at it. Also, I ALWAYS try NOT to use a landing net. I feel that it does terrible damage to the fish. Strips all of the slime of and tears up the fins badly. Another important key is to always try to keep the fish over water and low to the ground. This is so that if the fish still has any fight in her and wants to squirm and accidentally falls out of your hands, the fish is not hurt. If at all possible try NEVER to take the fish out of the water. That is the best way to handle and release the fish. The fish can be often be handled and controlled just as easily if not more easy in the water, than if he were held chest high out of the water.

Releasing Steelhead:

A good rule of thumb is that high water temps, long fights and poor handling are deadly on steelhead. I like to walk my fish out into some soft current areas. You don’t have to move the fish back and forth to get water over its gills. Hold the steelhead into the current facing directly upstream, then just hold the fish their upright until he starts to try to kick out of your hand. If the fish can do this chances are that he will survive to fight another day. Also, one important thing to remember is to be kind to the fish. Pretend it’s you in the water.[/size][/font]
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[lonehunter]

[font "Tahoma"][#336699][size 3]Drag? Dead Drift? What are you Talking About?[/size][/#336699][/font]

[font "Tahoma"][size 2]Drag. At the mere mention of that word among stream anglers you are likely to get two looks; one is quizzacle—one is horrified. Few anglers fully understand drag; even fewer know how to overcome it. Yet in order to be consistently successful, tackling drag is of supreme importance. Drag is the most common reason one angler can follow another and repeatedly pull fish from the very run that his buddy just pounded. He knew how to run a drag-free (dead drift) drift and his buddy did not. Not that his buddy lacked experience…not that his friend was less of an angler, it is simply that he understood drag and his pal did not. Most likely some dude took the time to show angler #1 the ins and outs of running a drift—and angler #1 was patient enough to listen. Angler #2 may have never been offered the same schooling, or may not have been wearing his listening ears that day in class. Let’s try to hold a refresher course OK? The final exam is only a few months away. By the way, you can take the practice exam as often as you wish!

Drag is rather easy to define, but very difficult to explain. Drag is the force that the current imparts on your line. If permitted, it has a nasty effect on your bait or fly making it dodge, dive, slide and rise unnaturally in the water. Most of the aquatic creatures selected as dinner by fish are at the mercy of the current…either by choice or destiny. This means that most foodstuffs are tumbling along with the current—not swimming against it, not gliding crosscurrent, not shooting to the surface. Of course there are examples like minnows and hatching insects but we are talking in general terms here. The vast majorities of fall and winter offerings have been dislodged from the bottom and are swept downstream with the current. Eggs, nymphs, stunned minnows, and larva all fit this category. Since these are the things we most commonly imitate, we need to present them in a natural way.

Imagine if you will (or do it for real) standing on the bank armed with a flyrod. Spooled on your reel is a brand new hot pink WFF fly line minus the leader. In front of you is a deep, rather swift run. You cast straight out and lift your rod tip to eye level and leave it there. What happens to the fly line? It catches the current and swings down below you with a slight belly; eventually the tip will whip across the surface until the entire line is hanging straight downstream. That is drag! The same thing would happen underwater on a vertical plane.

Now repeat the same scenario but add a leader with a tuft of bright yarn to imitate your fly. Now what happens? Well the fly line will take the same course and the leader and fly will follow—but at an exaggerated rate! In addition, the leader will be influenced by any subtle interference in the current, and that will be transmitted to the fly. Again, the rig will behave the same way underwater on a vertical plane. Do you think that looks even remotely natural? Of course not…and neither do the fish.

In order to pass the exam you will need to devise a way to counteract, or adjust, so that the current cannot enact its force on your line and leader. You need to trick the water, to overcompensate, so your bait or fly is tumbling downstream at the same rate as the current it is running in.

Let me toss a few more factors into this equation. First, the water at the streambed and tight against the bank will always be slower than the water at the surface. The difference is greater where the water is running deep over a rough bottom. Second, the water around obstructions will be slowed considerably—both immediately in front of and immediately behind the obstruction. Third, the water velocity will increase anywhere the channel is narrowed, or bottlenecked. But somewhere just downstream of the bottleneck the stream will widen and a pocket or eddy will form to one or both sides of the current. Last, somewhere near any of the above-mentioned structures (streambed, stream bank, obstruction or bottleneck) you will find two currents of differing speeds contacting each other. We call these seams.

Factors one through four create very favorable habitat for migrant salmonids. Toss in a deep hole and its tailout and you have six of the hottest places to wet a line for salmon and steelhead. More specifically, the seams created by these structures offer the habitat that trout and salmon seek as they migrate upstream. Call them resting spots or lies. They offer reduced flows where the fish can sit a spell and recover some energy. These are also the places where the fish have time to visualize what is drifting by them. This is where they will feed or attack so these are the places you want to fish. But you better drift it au natural!

Okay, so how do we do that? Well, in theory it is simple. Cast upstream with only enough weight to overcome the current, toss in a few upstream mends (if fly fishing) so the line does not belly downstream, then lift the slack line off the water and follow the path with your rod tip held high. Oh yeah, and you need to be able to detect the strike. Easy? Yeah...right. Well, “good things come to those who wait,” and “practice makes perfect.” The hard part is doing it enough that you begin to see and feel what I have been discussing.

For starters, begin in rather shallow water using a very visible fly. This is just a study session so we are not actually fishing yet. Rig up and make a cast. Watch your fly. How is it behaving? It is riding way up in the water column? Is it swinging diagonally across the current? What? It is doing both! DRAG! Ohh, now its stuck on the bottom. TOO MUCH WEIGHT! So take off some weight and cast a bit farther upstream. Not getting stuck but it is swinging again? Well are you getting the slack off the water? Didn’t think so. Try again. Okay, better this time, it’s not swinging until it gets past you. Forgot to follow the drift with your rod eh? Try again. VERY GOOD! The fly just bounced along the bottom until it got too far downstream to control. PERFECT! Now you are ready to move to deeper water that is holding some fish.

The method will remain the same—you will just need to compensate by adding or subtracting weight to suit the depth and flow. A longer or shorter cast may be in order. And if that line ever stops or jumps SET THE HOOK ‘cause you just got bit! Yep, it may be a rock but better to be safe than sorry. In time you will be able to read what your fly or bait is dong just by watching your line…in time. Unfortunately that is the best I can do. There are no short courses in overcoming drag. Dead drifting is almost an art form and it takes time to learn all the variables. But with each new piece of water, and with each fish hooked, you will become that much more proficient. Before you know it you will be racing to the water with the confidence of an expert! [/size][/font]

[font "Tahoma"][size 2]For the fly angler mending is a crucial action. Mending the line is the act of tossing the slack fly line somewhere it does not want to go—namely against the current. It is different from a cast in that you are only mending the portion of line that is laying on the surface—the submerged line, leader, and fly stay in the water. There are basically two ways to mend: in the air and on the water. Many folks have developed their own mends but all are a form of these two types of mends.

Typically I mend in two situations: immediately when dead-drifting a nymph and throughout a wet fly swing. Since we are discussing dead drifting here I’ll pick on that one. Before I do however, let me state that I ama proponent of the short line, high stick method of nymphing and I DO NOT participate in the long line nymphing ball game. I like to get up close and personal. With that being said let us continue.

Once I select the zone I am going to fish I situate myself either directly cross-stream or slightly downstream from the lie. My first mend will be in the air and it takes the form of a “tuck cast.” A tuck cast is performed by shooting a strong cast over the intended target (which will be some point upstream of the zone you are fishing) and then halting the cast while it lays out parallel to the water, BEFORE it hits the water. The result will be your fly and weight jumping back a bit and hitting the water before your fly line (Mend #1). The leader and line will fall onto the surface in lazy curves allowing the fly to get deep quick.

The next mend will come as soon as I get control of the slack line with my stripping hand. With a sudden snap of the rod-holding wrist, I toss a big loop of line upstream (Mend #2) then quickly pick the slack line off the water. All of this needs to be done without affecting the submerged portion of the rig—which takes a bit of practice. Once all the slack is off the water I hold the rod tip up. The next step is to keep the slack out of the line and follow the curent downstream with your rod tip—all the time watching where your line enters the water for any twitch or pause that may indicate a fish. The hookset is rapid since you are close and there is very little slack between your rod and the fish. The loose line you are holding in your stripping hand is handy upon hook-up to act as a shock absorber on that initial run.

Again, practice makes perfect but there is no deadlier fly rod presentation for pinpoint work.

For starters, begin in rather shallow water using a very visible fly (yes, even you spin anglers can benefit by dead-drifting using a highly visible fly so you can see the effect drag has on your offering). This is just a study session so we are not actually fishing yet. Rig up and make a cast. Watch your fly. How is it behaving? It is riding way up in the water column? Is it swinging diagonally across the current? What? It is doing both! DRAG! Ohh, now its stuck on the bottom. TOO MUCH WEIGHT! So take off some weight and cast a bit farther upstream. Not getting stuck but it is swinging again? Well are you getting the slack off the water? Didn’t think so. Try again. Okay, better this time, it’s not swinging until it gets past you. Forgot to follow the drift with your rod eh? Try again. VERY GOOD! The fly just bounced along the bottom until it got too far downstream to control. PERFECT! Now you are ready to move to deeper water that is holding some fish.

The method will remain the same—you will just need to compensate by adding or subtracting weight to suit the depth and flow. A longer or shorter cast may be in order. And if that line ever stops or jumps SET THE HOOK ‘cause you just got bit! Yep, it may be a rock but better to be safe than sorry. In time you will be able to read what your fly or bait is dong just by watching your line…in time. Unfortunately that is the best I can do. There are no short courses in overcoming drag. Dead drifting is almost an art form and it takes time to learn all the variables. But with each new piece of water, and with each fish hooked, you will become that much more proficient. Before you know it you will be racing to the water with the confidence of an expert!



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[lonehunter]

[font "Tahoma"][#336699][size 3]Kings on the Fly[/size][/#336699][/font]

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MELT AWAY THE MYTH’S

Before I get into these theories techniques and tactics, we have to emancipate your mind on the thought that “King Salmon don’t bite because they don’t eat anymore when they enter a stream” If you can’t free your mind of this untrue ol’ wives tale, then stop reading right now and return to some other spot on our web page. Because if you believe that, then you can’t CATCH salmon on the fly. I’m going to talk about a salmon CHOOSING to eat your fly as it passes by, or in some cases, chase your fly and eat it. I’m not talking about lining, lifting, searching, roping, snagging, or gigging. I’m talking “nibble..nibble….uuuuugh (sound of your setting the hook) FISH ON!

WHAT FISH TO TARGET:

I really love to fish kings with fly tackle. I’ve been very successful at catching kings so now I’d like to pass along that info to you. While we’ve dispelled that nasty ol’ myth (hope you’re all still with me on that…repeat after me…”King salmon Dooo…bite things while in the stream”) you need to know that kings are NOT and easy fish on the fly or any other bait for that matter. Oh they have their moments when they will hit anything that moves, but generally they are moody, slow to react, and pretty much have to be in the mood to take a lure fly or bait. There are some guidelines to make the odds in your favor much better.

*) FISH LOCATION:

I don’t look to fish deep slow pools for kings. Yes they will hold up in those places, and sulk for hour’s maybe days at a time, but deep pools or slow water is not ideal fly fishing habitat. Look for the “HEAT” Water that is moving at a rapid pace. Fast runs, tail outs, heads of pools (this sound like your favorite steelhead spots also…Kings are cousins to Mr. Steelie)…and pocket water. In long runs and riffles you’ll find depressions in the stream bottom. Ruts, and slots where a fish can rest just under the heavy current. Why is that you ask? Well a couple reasons. One, when kings run the rivers in Sept. into Oct. remember they are coming into water that is generally warmer then they prefer, mid 60’s to high 50’s. Kings prefer mid 40’s to mid 50’s at best. So in warmer water conditions they’ll seek faster water for more oxygen content. Second, more oxygen content will also make them more apt to strike at things. So lesion one is to hunt for fish in good oxygenated water.

*) PRESENTATION:

So you locate some kings fining away in a good run, now how to present the fly. Next lesson to remember, kings are not like stream trout, they didn’t spend a while lot of time in the stream or hatchery, they didn’t root around on the bottom for nymphs, or rise to hatching or emerging bugs. They did sit in riffles however and eat insects as they floated by, and they certainly chased small fish around in runs and pools. So presentation wise I don’t want to fish on the bottom. I have to be in their sight range, to be in their strike zone. This means that I have to drift my bug at eye level, which is generally a foot or two off bottom, depending on the depth of the run. I’ve never used much weight to fish to kings. But I do use a small dropper weight system when I choose to fish any weight at all. But in essence, I’m usually only running a couple micro shot on my four to six inch dropper and the fly some 24 to 36 inches behind the dropper. If you can’t site the fish then you have to be good at either reading the water, or knowing the particular stream you’re fishing. In other words, be able to read the cuts and slots the fish could be in to make you presentation.

I want to swing the fly so that it comes across in front of the fish at eye level, right off his nose a few inches in front of him. If the fish is hot, he’ll slide up and sip the fly with out you hardly noticing it. If you cast to deep into the slot and touch him with your line, you’ll most likely spook the fish, and he’ll either rush past you, or spin and speed off down stream. So don’t make contact with the fish…let him come to you.

If I don’t think I’m getting the right presentation either two deep or not deep enough to be in the fishes strike zone I’ll play with mending line, or casting location before I add or subtract weight. So work with your mends, and then think about adjusting weight on your leader.

THE TAKE:

As big and as nasty as kings are in the lake when they SLAM a lure or bait, they are much more nimble for the most part in a stream when they nibble at something. I do believe that salmon are NOT biting because they are hungry, so I agree they are not interested in eating once they are on the spawn, however these fish have an instinct that triggers them to strike out that doesn’t disappear after they’ve ascended a tributary. Often you’ll feel a perch like tick tick nibble, or just the weight on your line that shouldn’t be there. Preset by tugging down on the line, and lifting the rod just a little, if you feel solid weight, or head shaking, then finish the hook set and slam the hooks home. I have had king’s charge across the streambed some 10 to 15 feet to nail a streamer or woolly bugger, so they can get that aggressive but usually they take in a more subtle manner.

THE FIGHT

It’s been my experience that fair hooked kings do not as a general rule dash down stream like a fright train right away. I’ve kept records of how fish fight on the fly, and I can say that a higher percentage of kings tend to stay in the pool and slug it out near bottom. I’ve had them later in the fight after seeing that pure brute strength wasn’t working for them …then make a run up or down stream. They are not a hard fish to control when caught fair. Notice I said control…not land. This is still a big heavy fish on fly tackle, and they will use their strength and body make up to tire YOU out. They will get sideways in the current to put pressure on the gear; they will burrow deep into a run. But if they choose to run down stream, then you have to make a choice. Can you…will you run after them? If you will then high tail it down stream and get below them. If you can’t or not able to for what ever reason, then point the rod at them and break them off. Yes these fish are going to die, but if you try to wrench them back through 100 yards of hot water, you’ll kill them before they get a chance to do their business.

If you fish for moody king salmon you will foul hook a few fish no matter how careful you are. Experienced anglers can tell right away if they have a fish that ate the fly or not. Work on getting to be that experienced. If you’ve foul hooked the fish, break him off right away. Don’t waste yours or the fish’s time and energy.

LANDING ZONE:

Kings have a natural handle at the base of their tail so “tailing kings is pretty easy” Grab that area but be ready to get your arm shook. Try to keep the fish in shallow water while trying to remove your fly. After unhooking the fish, leave your gear on the bank, and with two hands cradling above the belly (you don’t want to get them excited into dropping eggs or sperm) and holding the tail point them back into the current, and gently work them into the current if they don’t seem to be responding naturally. Soon they’ll try to kick out of your grasp, a gentle shove forward, and away they go.

FLIES FOR KINGS:

Three major styles that I’ve documented over the years gets you bit more often

*) Woolly Bugger or Egg Sucking Leaches: In sizes 2 to 8. They like black, purple, brown, and chartreuse, sometimes orange or pink. With pink or orange for the egg on the egg sucking leach. I’m sure other popular egg colors will work also.

*) Egg imitations: Glo bugs, goo bugs, carpet flies, any estez style egg pattern, nuclear roe bugs to name a few.

*) Natural nymph patterns in black, brown, olive. Black is number one in my book. Stoneflies, gold ribbed hares ears, prince nymphs, hex nymphs, pheasant tails, etc. My best are the black stones and black hares ears in sizes 8 and 10.

FRESH RUN KINGS OR STALE FISH:

At the beginning of the salmon run, try to get as close to the river mouth or estuary as possible to fly fish. Fresh run fish are usually very willing to bite, everything from big to small flies. Swing streamers, or dead stick nymphs or egg patterns and the fish will usually go. Late in the run, high up in the stream, you’ll find weary tired spent fish, but they will still take a fly if you work the locations I mentioned earlier. Later in the run it’s more important to find good oxygenated water.

SUGGESTED FLY GEAR FOR KINGS:

Don’t be a hero! In other words don’t try and fish kings with a rod lighter then an eight weight. And an eight weight is still pushing it a little unless you are using a Spey rod. The longer two hander will give you more leverage then a single eight. For single handed rods I’d use a nine or 10 weight in a nine or preferably 10 foot length. However my favorite setup is a nine weight Spey rod in the 13 to 15 foot length. You can work a lot of line, mend line much easier, and once hooked up you have a ton of leverage to subdue a heavy nasty fish.

Reels, don’t skimp. You don’t need an $800 Abel, but a reel with a good drag system is essential, other wise you have to do too much work to control the fish. Let your gear make life easier for you. However Abel, Fin Nor, Islander, Orvis, Lamson, Reddington, and Cortland, to name a few all make good reels to do battle with kings. You’ll hit all the price ranges with the line up I’ve listed.

Be patient, work hard on the variables in presenting a fly, and locations of kings and you’ll see why I love to fish kings on the fly .[/size][/font]

For a more solid King hookup rate using Wiggle Warts, remove both stock hooks, add a 1&1/4" bead chain to the belly eye, with super sharp 2x treble (3x for the Mag Wart).
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