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Oh but you forget the best and most versatile of materials. PVC! It works great. Here is my Humminbird 565 mounted with the transducer as well. Easily moves up and down out of the way.
[inline "FF565 - 400.jpg"]
[inline "rammount - 400.jpg"]
[inline "transducerdown - 400.jpg"]
[inline "transducerup - 400.jpg"]
[inline "transducermount - 400.jpg"]
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I am an Aluminum and ABS plastic or Nylon girl...LOL No PVC on my boats...LOL
Figured out a way to mount your rod holders to a deck with PVC anyone? Got to be able to adjust the rod up and down plus side to side, and size is an issue.[  ]
Anyway, back to original post....a tube/pontoon can be very heavy or very light...you just have to figure out what you want and can do and do without.
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I am surprised that TD has not piped up on this. He has made stuff out of PVC that will do about everything on a tube or toon. Adjustable rod holders are a specialty. He has several threads in the archives that detail the affair.
Some toons have a wheel attached that allow those of us that are challenged with lifting, to wheel the rig around. I have found that to be a BIG help.
Good luck with the whole thing !!!
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Absolutely...TD where are you!!!!!
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Well I figured that I would chime in, since everybody else has, I will start with my transducer setup. I started with a pvc T that fit over the tubing that my toon is constructed from,I had to use sandpaper just a little to enlarge the inside diameter enough to fit, then slipped over the cross member of my toon frame. From there a bushing down to 1/2 inch with a union, a 90 down to the needed length, and attached the transducer with machine screws.( Hopefully the pics show it ) With a quick twist of the wrist I can raise or lower it into position, and it stores well out of the way. For the monitor I have used a Panavise ( Google it) pretty much like a Ram mount but cheaper. I also used the Panavise and pvc for my rod holders. I posted pics of these a while back. I know this would not work for everyone, but it does work well for me. I only have time tonight for a couple of pics, but if anyone is interested let me know and I can get more later.
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Hi Albinotrout,
It looks like the FC4 your wife uses is fashioned after TubeDude's ideas for motorizing a tube. Nice. Does she use a regular sized battery? ( "Regular" meaning the heavy weight ones)
FT
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When I had kayaks, I bought a Humminbird TX 300 with 2 transducers. That way, if I wanted to use my tube or rent a boat, no problem. That's another way to go.
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Ahh, what lengths we go to for our pets.[  ]
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Hi Panfisher,
I've had 2 kayaks, 2 float tubes, one Scadden 6 footer and one pontoon.
The pontoon and the yaks were a lot of work. If you have a trailer or a means where you don't have to break down and set up the 'toon every time you go out, I say go for it. I had to break down and set up the 'toon. Not fun.
I have some fond memories of sitting in my yak fishing. Bass boiling here and then there and now right next to me!, chasing shad, excitement; warm, balmy, clear afternoons, with a hint of warm wind in my face. Heaven!
FT
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Yes it is a normal sized battery. By adding two bumpers under the tube it adds the needed support for the battery.
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[quote flygoddess]Absolutely...TD where are you!!!!![/quote]
[cool][#0000ff]Being a man of few words (HA) here are a couple of my latest writeups...with pics.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Best way for mounting something to a flat surface, like a deck, is by cutting a 1/2" or 1" PVC "T" or cross to be able to screw it down for a base. Then you can use a combination of pipe and fittings to get whatever system you want. Some of the pics in the attached writeups will better illustrate what I am talking about. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
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WOW!!! There you have it!
But most of those are spinning and bait. There is NO way to run strung up fly rods straight up or side by side. Plus due to their length and even weather, plus different situations like ruffer or moving water, I am changing mine all the time. One down, one medium and one high or all same but fan them out.
In a small package.
![[Image: IMG_1423.jpg]](http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/FlyGoddess/Outlaw%20X5/IMG_1423.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_1131.jpg]](http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/FlyGoddess/Outlaw%20X5/IMG_1131.jpg)
Or even the flush mount
![[Image: IMG_1026.jpg]](http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/FlyGoddess/cardiac%20canyon/IMG_1026.jpg)
I do have one white PVC rod holder. It is attached to my lean bar.
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Those Panavise are sweet! But, of course the ones I like cost as much if not more than the Ram...LOL WWich are you using and how did you adapt them?
I wanted to through this out to you all. I have been using Sonar with my tube, toon, for many many years. You do NOT need the transducer deep. In fact even to a little higher than the bottom of your tube or toon is all you need. You don't need to make it swing out of the way as it does not need to be that low.
This gets rid of allot of head aches, really.
I rely on my sonar being EXACT on the depth also. So, if mine reads 19' I know that is from almost the surface. A very accurate reading. I have found by changing my depths by an inch it has made all the difference in the world, but as I said this is my style of fishing. If you jig, this is a big difference.
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Hello TubeDube
I liked your write up and information. I have a question on page 24 you show TubeBabe in her float with a trolling motor attached. Can tell me where the battery is located is it a full size, how far and long does it last, are you using it all the time or kicking alot to move around.
I want to get around Bunny gultch and places like that.
Thanks
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Earlier in this thread I posted a pic of mamatrout in her fc4 with a motor. Very similar to TD's with slight modification. I placed a full sized deep cycle battery in a battery box right behind the seat. She uses a Minn kota iota 30. Battery will last almost all day unless you keep the motor on full throttle all the time. Usually #3 slot is best. Use your flippers to help steer you with the motor in the fixed position.
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Yes I remember that picture.
Thanks
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TD can answer on the batteries cause he does use two different kind. You can get smaller batteries like for golf carts or wheel chairs, but they are expensive.
I want to also point out that you need to loosen the nut and bolt that hold the head on your motor, and turn it so the handle is facing the same direction as the prop. This gives you all the forward speeds to pull you and the few reverse speeds to push you when and if you need it.
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[cool][#0000ff]We use large series 27 AGM batteries on our tubes...with motors. These batteries do fit nicely behind the seats, but we have to add floatation in the form of boat bumpers to keep the ride level. I am now using a combo frame and float model (see pic) that quickly attaches and detaches from the bottom of the tube.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]We do not use the motors for fishing much. We still prefer to kick around and fish slowly. But when we need to get to our next spot a bit quicker...or get back in at the end of the day...or fight the wind...the motors are great.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Not sure how long the batteries will last. Haven't run them down yet. My motor specs for my Endura 30 say that the motor will draw 30 amps per hour at high speed. Theoretically I could run for 4 hours wide open with a 120 amp/hour battery. But that will never happen with a float tube. Too much drag in the water compared to a pontoon or small boat. and the batteries do not keep putting out juice at top speed until they crap out. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Lots of variables for each tube and for the way each person fishes. You just need to monitor your own use and keep checking the batteries with a voltage tester and see how long your charger takes to bring it back up after an "average" day of use.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]By the way, Bunny Gulch was one of the big motivators in our getting motorized. Really helps cover the water with power to get back in when the "zephyrs" come up.[/#0000ff]
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