11-29-2003, 01:03 AM
You might also look into the two-part polyurethane and/or other polymer rod finishes. They dry a little slower and I believe are more flexible than many of the epoxies (although I'm not familiar with davetclown's foxy epoxy) The slower drying facilitates producing a smooth, uniform, level coating by rotating the rod while drying. The flexibility helps prevent cracking when the rod is flexed during use.
I'd recommend against using epoxy on the tip top. There are more than rare occasions tip tops need to be replaced. I, several times needed to replace the tip top after the friction ring became cracked, or completely disappeared. The first time I had to replace the tip top on my HMG Fenwick, I had to cut the tip of my rod blank off, because Fenwick must put its tip tops on with epoxy. Heat would not loosen it. I use the hot melt glue. Not only does it let you easily reposition the tip top if you first put it on crooked; but while it attaches the tip top firmly, it allows you to remove the tip top with just a liitle heat if you need to replace it.
You can find both the polymer finishes and the hot melt glue in most fishing catalogs. I know Jann's Netcraft and Cabelas has them.
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I'd recommend against using epoxy on the tip top. There are more than rare occasions tip tops need to be replaced. I, several times needed to replace the tip top after the friction ring became cracked, or completely disappeared. The first time I had to replace the tip top on my HMG Fenwick, I had to cut the tip of my rod blank off, because Fenwick must put its tip tops on with epoxy. Heat would not loosen it. I use the hot melt glue. Not only does it let you easily reposition the tip top if you first put it on crooked; but while it attaches the tip top firmly, it allows you to remove the tip top with just a liitle heat if you need to replace it.
You can find both the polymer finishes and the hot melt glue in most fishing catalogs. I know Jann's Netcraft and Cabelas has them.
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