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I've got a 24 v bow mount foot-control Minn Kota trolling motor that is acting up and has since I got it (used). I've never been able to run it at 100% it shuts off, turns on for a second, then turns off. So I've found if I run it at 50% I have no issues, so that's what I've done the last few seasons. But I'd like to fix the issue once and for all. I'm running a 50 amp fuse and thick gauge wired. Any suggestions? The + wire seems to get hot coming from the battery when it's running.
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The speed selector regulates how much voltage gets to the motor thus changing the speed. It's basically a potentiometer and they can wreak havoc. That is of course if your controller has the slide speed selector. It sounds like that is your problem. Either that or you've got a bad ground or the motor is wore out and pulling too much of a load and heating up the pos wire. Hope this helps
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its the slide selct had the same problem last year im told its because the wires are not able to handle the volts,,,re did mine in heavy 6 volt and haven't had a problem
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What gauge wire are you running from your battery? I think you should be running at least 8 gauge wires.
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Contact Swede R. He is a Minn Kota service person. Works out of his home, but his drop off is in Bountiful at the big Stil dealership there, can't remember the name. Does great work, good service, good prices.
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Just a thought, to check something if you haven't already. Remove the prop and make sure there isn't anything like fishing line wrapped around the spindle. Clean it up and reinstall the prop and check that it turns easily.
I hadn't checked mine for a few seasons a couple years ago, and decided to remove the prop. Found several wraps of mono inside.
Might as well check the easy things before tackling something else.
Good luck.[  ]
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I'm running 8 gauge wire from the batteries. Looks like i'll need to hook up a voltmeter and see what its draw is. When I was checking the wire thickness I also forgot to mention that theres a little rectangular box (1"x1") that connects to the + battery terminal. It says 24v 40 amp, this is separate from an inline fuse I'm running at 50 volt. Could this little box have something to do with it?
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That's a 40 amp circuit breaker or short stop. If the wires getting hot, go bigger. 12 volt power is all about the ground. Couple years ago my new motor guide burn up second trip out, it was a manufacture defect and there was a recall campaign, didn't cost a thing.
Tesla wanted to wire the country with DC power, it's hard to transmit long distances with small wire without heat.
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What size would you recommend? The manufacturer told me to run a 50 amp fuse to the motor so I'm guessing just replace the old circuit breaker with a 24 v 50 amp one so that it matches my 50 amp fuse? Mind you that circuit breaker was there when I bought the boat, but at the time the boat was running a lesser powered trolling motor.
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If the wires hot, the circuit breaker is probably "popping" also. Replace it, my boat has resettable ones. How big are the factory leads on the motor? I'd go on size bigger than those. If your boat is 20+ ft, go another size up. Sometimes a good extension cord serves nicely. My jetboat as a 30 amp RV cord going forward for the anchor system.
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60amp...
Also the only circuit breaker Minnkota sells these days. Nothing smaller is on their site. 12/24/36v system compatibility.
[url "http://store.minnkotamotors.com/products/392929/Circuit_Breaker"]http://store.minnkotamotors.com/...2929/Circuit_Breaker[/url]
![[Image: t309_c021e5a2c3aad2db4327954c466c8173.jpg]](http://store.minnkotamotors.com/dimg/thm/t309_c021e5a2c3aad2db4327954c466c8173.jpg)
I switched to it several trips ago and much much much much happier. I had the oem 50amp breaker in my boat that Tracker uses for most ot their applications.
Different reasons than your problem for the switch for me though. I was overheating to the point the 50 amp would pop when running mine on full power for extended periods (longer than 10-15 minutes straight). The breaker itself was so hot when it would pop that I actually got burns on several fingers touching it too soon. With the new 60amp Minnkota breaker I don't have breaker popping problems when running the motor HARD for very extended periods (20-30 minutes straight plus at max power) the breaker no longer gets hot. The wires coming off the battery to the breaker are warm but not smoking hot like they were previously and the wires coming out of my front area of the boat to the trolling motor are warm but again nothing like they were before with the 50amp breaker.
$40 bucks very well spent to me! (I got mine at Sportsman's Warehouse out of a whim one day but they can be found on Amazon much cheaper if one can wait a couple days for shipping.)
(Minnkota Terrova 80/US2/I-Pilot/60" with 2x group 31M DieHard Platinum Marine 1150cca/205rc AGM batteries.)
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Looks like I know where to start. Hopefully this will clear up my issues.
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[quote HATH]I'm running 8 gauge wire from the batteries. Looks like i'll need to hook up a voltmeter and see what its draw is. When I was checking the wire thickness I also forgot to mention that theres a little rectangular box (1"x1") that connects to the + battery terminal. It says 24v 40 amp, this is separate from an inline fuse I'm running at 50 volt. Could this little box have something to do with it?[/quote]
Sounds like you might have the answer to your problem but my first Minn Kota had a little
rectangular box just like yours and it would do the same thing after entended use on full power. That little breaker would get hot and shut it down for a few minutes, until it cooled down, it would not work.
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I just ordered a 60 amp circuit breaker. I'll cut off my old one and splice in this new one. I hope this does it!
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why do you need a inline fuse if you are using a 60 amp circuit breaker. also make sure you have over 24 volts to the trolling motor.
every one that has a 24 V motor should have a volt meter. they dont cast that much. unless you have a Fluke multmeter like I have.
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A circuit breaker is an automatically operated electrical switch designed to protect an electrical circuit from damage caused by overload or short circuit. Its basic function is to detect a fault condition and interrupt current flow. Unlike a fuse, which operates once and then must be replaced, a circuit breaker can be reset (either manually or automatically)
[url "https://www.trollingmotors.net/trolling-motor-wiring-diagram"]https://www.trollingmotors.net/trolling-motor-wiring-diagram[/url]
Trolling motor wires getting too hot
[url "http://www.fishsniffer.com/forums/boats-motors-gear/81500-trolling-motor-wires-getting-too-hot.html"]http://www.fishsniffer.com/forums/boats-motors-gear/81500-trolling-motor-wires-getting-too-hot.html[/url]
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I think my only excuse is I'm not an electrician: ) Plus I had heard that when you're charging your batteries all at once (I have an on board charging system) that you want each battery to be charged separately, by me installing that in line fuse, I'm able to disconnect the two batteries to allow them to charge on their own. Not sure if it's a real issue, but it's worked for me so far. Also the current circuit breaker on there was existing from the old trolling motor, I didn't know what it was, and from the sounds of it it's not able to handle the new trolling motor.
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if the 40 amp breaker that you were using was tripping when the motor needed more than 40 amps and reset when it cooled down. the new 60 amp breaker should fix that.
you should be able to charge both battery’s the same time with out disconnecting the batteries
The charger’s DC output terminals are designed to be permanently mounted and connected to batteries.
[url "http://store.minnkotamotors.com/media/document/2377161_ra_english_mk110d330d_manual_100707.pdf"]http://store.minnkotamotors.com/media/document/2377161_ra_english_mk110d330d_manual_100707.pdf[/url]
go to the bottom of this page for the wiring
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Great info here, if you don't mind me asking you, do you know this info yourself or are you finding it on line? I'm not doubting any of this info because it sounds right to me but I was just wondering what you know about battery changers.
When I bought my boat last year, it had an on board charger, I used it a few times but noticed it did not seem to be giving a full charge to my batteries. Maybe that was my fault because as soon as the light went out or changed color I assumed it was charged and disconnect the plug, maybe I should have left it connected. For you or anyone else with an on board charger on their boat, do you always leave your charger hooked up to power? Does it keep charging even after the light changes color or goes out? Thanks for any help.
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I bought my MinnKota Battery Charger MK330 off E bay he said it was not working right so I read every thing I could find. Then I bot it from him
I fixed it in about 5 min. I was going to email him and tell him what was wrong But I did't want to make him fill dumb.
You can put a DC volt meter on the battery then plug the charger in
you should read up to 15 volts. My charger the voltage will come down as the battery is charged.
I can leave it pluged in for weeks and it will not hurt the batterys.
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