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Well, I've been working on my single rod holders the last couple of days. I made 3 rod holders, and I tried to add a deep slot in one of them to hold my fly rod but I've had difficulty getting it to work. The rod falls over out of the slot. It's a bit frustrating, but I'm pleased with the way the holder for my spinning rods went. I'd post pics but don't have a digital.
Anyway, I actually used ABS pipe instead of PVC. First, I couldn't find any piping that was 1 1/4", so I had to get 1 1/2". The PVC and the ABS costed the same, and I believe ABS is stronger (so I've heard) so I got that. It's black instead of white so it doesn't stick out as much either.
Thanks, TubeDude for the sketches and help.
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Hey Catman, you are right that the ABS is stronger but that is only because the wall is thiker on the pipe. You have probably seen Scedule 20, and 40. Well, ABS works out to be like a schedule 80. It is a different compostion than pvc therefore it weighs different.
For the type of load and for the money, the schedule 20 is plenty strong and wont break for the type of useage that we are subjecting it to. It is also much lighter than the scedule 40 ABS or PVC.
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When I compared it to the PVC it looked like it was the exact same diameter material, however maybe I was dilusional or something. I tried lifting each one and it felt like they weighed about the same too, but I'm not all that good a judge anyway so who knows. Thanks for the info. I imagine the schedule is printed on the side along with the dimensions, right? I'll have to go look tonight when I get home and see what I got.
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Hey Catman, the pvc and abs will both read schedule 40 but the abs is a little stronger. The only thing is that he abs is made for lower pressure pipeing. But that shouldn't matter for a rod holder. The abs will actually weigh out at a few grams less than the pvc only because of its composition. It is not as dense.
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[cool][size 1] Hey there cat_man,[/size]
[size 1] Attached find a pic showing how I handled the problem of the possibility of my fly rod falling out. Used some velco stripping to lock in the sucker. Got the velco to stick to the pvc using pvc cement.[/size]
![[Image: gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=2039;]](http://www.bigfishtackle.com/cgi-bin/gforum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=2039;)
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[cool][size 2]That is probably the best solution. Some guys have two or three different fairy wands they might take out on different trips, and each is likely to have a different diameter handle. The velcro makes it unnecessary to work to fine tolerances. In fact, with a deeper groove, you might even splurge on two pieces of velcro.[/size]
[size 2]Thanks Dryrod.[/size]
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[  ][size 2] Duh, I spelt velcro incorrectly as [velco]. Do I have to stay after school?[/size]
[size 2] Thanks for the feed back TubeDude.[ ][/size]
[size 2] [/size]
[size 2] What do you think that battery weighs? Please not in grams.[laugh][/size]
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[cool][size 1]Velco? Didn't notice it until you mentioned it. Oh well, you can owe us a couple of Rs...or if you wanna be anal about it, you can go back and edit it. What's a couple of Rs among friends?[/size]
[size 1]The only school you have to stay after is the school of fish you are working.[/size]
[size 1]That battery weighs 5.5 pounds...in "Gram's" (TubeBabe) tube. It weighs the same in mine...but I am using a 6 Amp that only weighs 4.1 pounds. I just wieghted them both, to answer your question...at 4:30 in the morning too. Now, if that ain't dedication, what is?[/size]
[size 1]Here's something we really haven't discussed, but is a consideration. How do you carry the battery back and forth to the water? [/size]
[size 1]You can carry it in the tube, since it is a gel cell and will not leak acid. But, unless you put it exactly in the center, that extra weight will make the craft shifty while you are carrying it...as well as heavier.[/size]
[size 1]I duct tape some strap handles on mine and either carry them in my hands, along with rods and fins, or attached to a belt...which helps free up the hands. For my lighter weight one, I also sometimes just tuck it in a side pocket on my oversized fishing vest. [/size]
[size 1]The goal is to reduce the total amount of weight you have to hoist and carry. By the time you add rod racks, tackle, nets and other stuff on your basic craft, it becomes more difficult to hoist onto your head or a shoulder, usually using only one hand...while holding the rods, fins, etc. in the other.[/size]
[size 1]If you are able to park close to your launching and beaching site, then it is advisable to get your gear to and from the water in more than one trip. But, where I fish most, I sometimes have hikes of a couple hundred yards...fully loaded.[/size]
[size 1]That's why the weight of any add-on becomes important...and how you carry it or attach it. Your body will let you know when you have gone too far.[/size]
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[cool][size 1]Have you ever used the AA rechargeable batteries in your unit? If not, why not? [/size]
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[cool][size 1]Now that's a personal question...or two.[/size]
[size 1]The only AA rechargeable batteries I know of are the little ones that go in our walkie talkies. And yes, we do use those. [/size]
[size 1]If you are referring to a 12 volt system, with which I am not familiar, then no, I have not used it.[/size]
[size 1]The sonar systems are usually set up to run off any battery or series of batteries that deliver a continuous 12 volt current. This will include two 6 volt alkaline lantern batteries, properly wired in sequence.[/size]
[size 1]As I have mentioned before, I tried everything from floating a car sized 12 volt (in a separate holder) to the small acid-filled motorcycle batteries. The gel cell batteries we now have available seem to be the ideal solution to the needs of tubers for POWER.[/size]
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Yeah, you're right TBN2, it's sched. 40. So, basically I couldn't really go wrong w/ABS or PVC. I guess it comes down to color preference. [  ]
Thanks for the info. Last night I cut a cross beam so that I could connect two holders on the left side into one rack, but I don't have any T joint pieces. Gonna get them tonight. Will they fit tight enough without any type of cement so I can take it apart and further modify it later? Or would that be risking losing a rod or two while on the water?
If I do need to cement them together, what should I use, just regular pvc cement? Thanks for the info.
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Hey Dryrod thanks for the velcro idea -- it's a good one. I'll have to get me some of that. I'm sure we could come up with some other good uses for extra velcro straps on a tube as well.
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I use velcro on my toon quite a bit. It is handy to strap my flyrod to the the frame.
Later!
es
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Hey Gato, they generally fit together fine without cement and you do not risk the loss of equipment as long as you use a small hammer to fit all pieces together tight. If you decided that you would want to glue them(a matter of prefence) then I would suggest a light to medium bodied pvc glue whether you are using ABS or PVC.
The lighter bodied pvc glue gives you a little more working time and doesn't have all the extra odors that are accociated with the ABS cement.
Final answer..............No glue is necessary when pieces are fitted correctly. If you ever wanted to make a modification, you would no longer have the chance if they are glued.
Have fun with it an be sure to post some pics when you are done. It is always fun to see what kind of creativity others may have.
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[cool][size 1]Hi TubeDude,[/size]
[size 1]What I was making reference to is the instructions in the Cuda manual which I down loaded. They talk about the 128 & 168 using eight AA batteries while the 168EX takes eight D batteries. 8 D batteries weighs 2.5lbs. The reason for the question is "if the AA or D batteries will operate the Cuda for around 6 hours before losing it's charge then the lighter weight difference would be work for me.[/size]
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[cool][size 1]Hey cat_man,[/size]
[size 1]I picked up some velcro, strapping material and plastic snap buckles from Wally's World. They have just about anything you would want. By the way with the strapping material & plastic buckles I made my own belts to encircle on my float tube pontoons.[/size]
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Hey Dryrod! The instructions online for the 128 and 168 cover both the "portable" model and the non-portable. I have a cuda 128 and like it quite a bit. The "portable" models have a batterycase in which 'normal batteries' are used. The non-portable require a LSA battery, marine battery, etc.
I find that the LSA batteries, while ackward, are probably a better bang for the buck unless you use rechargable batteries in the portable models and you still have to figure out a place to put the battery pack anyway.
Good fishing to you!!!
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[cool][size 3][font "Arial"]Hey EmuScud[/font],
[/size]
I thought that the portable and non-portable units were exactly the same except as to whether one used a 12 volt battery or 8 dry cell units? Question – what accessories come when with either the 128 or 168 FF? I order a 168EX however I didn't specify as to which one I wanted. Is the type of battery power a decision one makes after purchasing the FF unit? i.e. One either buys the battery pack or a 12 volt battery. I won't get my 168 until Xmas day, otherwise some of the questions if not all wouldn't be asked.
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[cool][size 1]The portable and non portable displays are the same...as are the features and functions. the difference is that you pay extra for a carrying and display case if you buy a portable. If you paid $119 for your 168 EX, you will be getting the standard unit.[/size]
[size 1]Both run off 12 volts. The difference is in the type of battery...and the wiring sequence to achieve 12 volts. In the long run, you will get longer and better performance with a gel cel 12 volt than several sets of rechargeable small batteries.[/size]
[size 1]History is never wrong.[/size]
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[cool][size 2]Hi TubeDude,[/size]
[size 2]You answered my question to perfection. Thanks.[/size]
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