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I have decided to replace the spark plugs on my Evenrude E-Tec 50 hp. outboard rather than having the dealer do it for me.
Apparently, the service manual says to use a little di-electric grease on the inside of the boot and on the ribs of the plug's ceramic body.
It also says that some "Evenrude Triple-Guard" grease should be put around the crush washer of the plug.
Question #1; Is it OK to put a thin film of di-electric grease on the end of the plug where the boot's electrical connection snaps on?
Question #2; Is it OK to put a thin film of anti-seize grease on the threads of the plug?
That would be 3 different types of grease in 4 different places on the plug.
Anyone have any suggestions regarding lube prepping a spark plug for installation?
[inline "Spark Plug Lube Locations.jpg"]
Thanks,
--- Coot ---
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Send Geezer a PM. As an old mechanic he would have an answer for you.
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That is interesting. I have never lubed any of the plugs on any of my boats, and I have owned 4 of them, and I replaced the plugs on all of them. I have never had any issues.
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I always use a little dielectric grease on the top of the spark plugs. It makes for a better contact and keeps out moisture. Not sure if you really need it on the ceramic, but it won't hurt. I also use high-temp (1600 degrees F) on the threads like you indicated. It doesn't take much, just a thin coating. This will prevent the plug from becoming stuck in the engine. It will also lube the "crush washer" on the plug. There is NO need to add more of the Evinrude Triple Guard grease, since it just duplicates what the antiseize does.
This info is coming from a guy who spent last weekend changing the original plugs in his 2005, 5.4L Ford Triton engine. They are the absolute worst design (likes to snap off in head) and I spent months researching this before attempting it. Including what antisieze to use, the purpose of dielectric grease, etc. If you don't believe me, just Google this engine and you'll find dozens of videos.
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I think most of those suggestions are overkill Ralph. If you run a motor hard for hours in humid conditions, I might believe using those extra precautions but most of us never push our boat motors that hard in those condition. It you feel it is something you need to do, I would not put and more than two types of grease on your plugs. The di-electric grease on the tip of the plug where the boot goes on and a very small amount of anti-seize grease on just the threads of the plug. I agree with Kent though, I don't use that stuff and imo I don't think it is needed for most boat motors but again, it likely depends on how hard you run them.
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I've never heard of anti seeze on a spark plug, ever! I think proper torque on the crush washer is more important. Can't go wrong with dielectric grease. Saltwater may change things. I'm gonna ask the boat doc.
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don't worry about putting any grease between the crush washer on the spark plug that area can't seize and doesn't need any kind of special treatment. do put some dielectric grease on the porcelain and on the plug contact, this prevents arcing and corrosion on the plug end and prevents the boot fro sticking when you remove it next time. do put anti seize compound on the plug threads his prevents the sticking of dissimilar metals. I hope this helps you .
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I am now anti seized and dialectriced.
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glad I could help
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After reading this info from a mechanic, I better change my evil ways and method of changing plugs on my boat motor. Do you also do this on auto engines Rich?
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Not so fast everyone!
If you do even a little research on the internet like searching for "using anti seize on spark plugs", you will find that there is a lot of opinions (yes, opinions) that suggest to NOT use anti seize on plugs.
Their claim is that if you use anti seize on plug threads, the lube characteristic of anti seize allows you to easily over tighten them and give undue stress on the plug threads or the threads of the head or both. The possible result being the very thing you are trying to prevent!
I still plan to use it on my plugs however, it will be a THIN coating and I will definitely not torque down the plugs as much.
Here is a great article on this topic:
[url "http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=2023"]http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=2023[/url]
Thanks for all your feedback everyone.
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if the plug is going into an iron head I generally don't use anti seize going into aluminum it is a must. I doesn't matter what the engine is in.
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ralph I read the article and it looks like the use and non use is arguable either way. in my opinion being a marine application I would lean towards using something, be carful not to install the plug to loose , on a plug with a sealing washer the washer is made to crush when you install it the first time be sure you tighten the plug enough to do this you can feel when you install it with a regular length 3/8 ratchet that the plug seats then you can continue to turn it until you feel the wash bottom . you really don't have to put much grunt force on it 10 to 13 lbs of torque isn't that much . and you should be ok just use common sense when installing them.
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[quote mtncat1]... In my opinion, being a marine application, I would lean towards using something ...[/quote]
I agree.
[quote mtncat1]...be carful not to install the plug to loose , on a plug with a sealing washer the washer is made to crush when you install it the first time be sure you tighten the plug enough to do this you can feel when you install it with a regular length 3/8 ratchet that the plug seats then you can continue to turn it until you feel the wash bottom ...[/quote]
Great advice MC.
Again, thanks for your replies.
--- Coot ---
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