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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#800000]Since Minn Kota and Motor Guide don’t have any repair centers in Utah (the guy in Bountiful retired a couple years ago), there doesn’t appear to be any place to get one repaired/serviced without spending more than it’s worth to ship it out of state and back. I’ve talked with Fred’s Marine, Peterson Marine, and Robertson Marine and none of them have any local contacts for this type of work. So I’m putting it out to the local fishing community.[/#800000][/font]
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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#800000]Do any of you have a contact of any local person that has the skill, the knowledge, and the desire to do this kind of work. The Minn Kota PowerDrive (12v, 48” shaft) w/ copilot on my 16-foot Tracker quit on me a couple weeks back and I replaced it with a newer PowerDrive V2 (54”) and upgraded to iPilot. If I could find a local person to repair the old one at a reasonable price, I’d get it repaired and sell it on KSL. New ones run about $600.[/#800000][/font]
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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#800000]If you know of anybody locally that works on these, please let me know.[/#800000][/font]
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Bob Hicks, from Utah
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Swede R has stopped doing repairs ??? News to me. Double check, his phone number is (801) 397-1675. His drop off is the big mower/power tool dealer in Bountiful.
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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#800000]I was at Croft Power in Bountiful on Tuesday and they no longer take motors for Swede. They said they stopped doing so a couple years ago. When I talked to Robertson Marine in SLC, they said Minn Kota has been trying for 2 years to get Robertson to become an authorized service center. Robertson isn't willing at this time to make the $6,000 plus investment to do that. Robertson also said Swede retired and moved to Manila to pursue a second career in fishing. So as it stands right now, there isn't a service center in Utah for either Minn Kota or Motor Guide. The 3 nearest Minn Kota repair centers are in Meridian, ID; Casper, WY; and Henderson, NV. Robertson also said the last motor they sent out of state to get repaired cost $140 to get shipped back.[/#800000][/font]
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Bob Hicks, from Utah
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That is a MAJOR bummer !! Swede was good ! I sent a motor to the Idaho outfit and they did not do a very good job. Before Swede, I sent my unit back to Minn Kota, very expensive. Good luck finding a repair center, keep us all posted !!
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Not sure if you might consider parting it out but let me know. If the parts will interchange with mine, I'd consider taking it off your hands. I've been thinking about upgrading to Co-Pilot.
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Do you have a model number? I can see f I can hunt down a repair manual.
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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#800000]There is a tag with the serial number on it (MKAE3187239) and on the housing on the top end of the shaft (opposite end from the motor) it says 40PD. It is a Power Drive model of 40 pound thrust. I believe it was made in 2004.[/#800000][/font]
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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#800000]While looking at the unit just now, I discovered that this housing at the top of the shaft was partially melted on one side. When I pulled it apart, I could see that the black wire connector inside that housing was fried and open. This is why the motor doesn't turn; no 12vdc getting to the motor with the negative line open. I think maybe with 40 years experience as a radar technician/radar system engineer, I can probably fix that. But it sure would be nice to see a manual that shows how to dismantle the motor from the shaft and the shaft from the frame so that I can splice to a good portion of the remaining black wire inside the shaft and the coiled portion outside the shaft.[/#800000][/font]
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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#800000]No indication as to what may have caused the overheating and melt-down at this point. I'll have to put in a splice and apply 12 volts to see if there is something else wrong.[/#800000][/font]
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Bob Hicks, from Utah
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i made a video fixing a 54 lb thrust motorguide ..the armature got dirty and i cleaned the magnet housing of black residue..I almost bought a new one but instead took it apart and was not difficult at all https://youtu.be/bbMap8Tk2WA only thing the brushes are worn down probably should of replaced them but i didn't. Anyway, it runs like new after a bit of sand paper to the armature
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[quote dubob][font "Comic Sans MS"][#800000]There is a tag with the serial number on it (MKAE3187239) and on the housing on the top end of the shaft (opposite end from the motor) it says 40PD. It is a Power Drive model of 40 pound thrust. I believe it was made in 2004.[/#800000][/font]
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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#800000]While looking at the unit just now, I discovered that this housing at the top of the shaft was partially melted on one side. When I pulled it apart, I could see that the black wire connector inside that housing was fried and open. This is why the motor doesn't turn; no 12vdc getting to the motor with the negative line open. I think maybe with 40 years experience as a radar technician/radar system engineer, I can probably fix that. But it sure would be nice to see a manual that shows how to dismantle the motor from the shaft and the shaft from the frame so that I can splice to a good portion of the remaining black wire inside the shaft and the coiled portion outside the shaft.[/#800000][/font]
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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#800000]No indication as to what may have caused the overheating and melt-down at this point. I'll have to put in a splice and apply 12 volts to see if there is something else wrong.[/#800000][/font][/quote]
http://www.nottsflyfishing.co.uk/pdf_docs/mkrepairs.pdf
That PDF has A LOT of MK info in it. I suggest using the CTRL+F function to find what you are looking for. I would just replace that wire, if it got hot you dont know where else the insulation melted inside the shaft.
Then hit it with an Ohm meter once its replaced.
Let me know if you need any help, I deal with DC power and motors a lot in my hobbies.
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[quote libertysyclone][url "http://www.nottsflyfishing.co.uk/pdf_docs/mkrepairs.pdf"]http://www.nottsflyfishing.co.uk/pdf_docs/mkrepairs.pdf[/url]
That PDF has A LOT of MK info in it. I suggest using the CTRL+F function to find what you are looking for. I would just replace that wire, if it got hot you dont know where else the insulation melted inside the shaft.[/quote][font "Comic Sans MS"][#800000]Thanks for the link. I'll check it out. It appears that the connector lugs (see below for type) detached from the wire and was arching and caused an over heat situation which melted the insulation for about 2 inches either side of the lugs and also melted the bottom half of the plastic case where the wire laid against it on the inside.
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No indication of overheating having any effect on the coiled wire but I can't really see down into the shaft. Maybe your link will detail how to disassemble the shaft from the motor casing. [/#800000][/font]
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Bob Hicks, from Utah
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Don't pull on the wires that come out of the shaft to hard, most are held in to the brush mount with spade connectors. Some have a crazy 90deg. Spade connector. If you need any let me know I have a box of them.
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Have you had any success Bob? Since I've taken mine apart once before, I can give you a hand with it if need be.
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Chase ColbyCO
1404 N valley hills blvd
Heber city Utah 84032
801-857-7766
He is a Authorized Service Provider for Minn Kota, certified to do warranty work and fix what you have broke.
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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#800000]Too damn busy fishing Curt. I think this is going to be a winter project to dismantle, repair, and re-assemble. I'm pretty sure I can get a new lower housing and a wire bundle from Minn Kota or maybe eBay. Will probably sell next Spring on KSL along with the Copilot.[/#800000][/font]
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Bob Hicks, from Utah
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"Free men do not ask permission to bear arms."
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Wow, I guess so, since it took you a month and 10 days to reply. I'd be willing to take it off your hands if you didn't want to wait that long to fix it. I can buy an co-pilot for $150, so I'd be willing to pay that much for your old unit, saving you the price and work involved in fixing it your self.
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